SLUDGE!!! I think I need a hug...(pics)

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: TomYoung
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
You would have to be moronic to put harsh solvents in a crankcase of a modern engine.


Nice language... but you're covered either way as nothing you are driving has a modern engine.
Yes, VVT-i, offset crank, High Compression, DOHC, ECT and DLI are wicked old tech on my 1NZ. I dont know if seafoam is a harsh solvent. But I would recommend against putting harsh solvents** into a crankcase given that seal compatibility is an unknown factor.

** Xylene, toluene, MEK, acetone, and the killer - Nitromethane. Kerosene is prob OK.

 

[UNC017]

Originally Posted By: TomYoung
This post is devolving, partially thanks to me. I attribute it to the awesome pictures of sludge. In deference to the original poster, I would act more aggressively than simply changing the oil. The picture on the valve cover are clearly sludge. If they were caused by an excessively long oil change, then the oil changes will resolve the problem. Another possibilty is the PCV valve, which can be changed on an 87,000 mile car without thinking too much. The chocolately/black look of the sludge on the valve cover could be indicative of a coolant leak, or condensation moisture and short drives.


I think the division here comes from the fact that a bunch of us looked at that picture and immediately said, "Oh... there's a baffle over the cams, and almost no oil is flinging up against that cover- its all a non-splash (or at least low-splash) area and that's more of a condensate than true sludge." The areas with good oil flow are VERY clean in there. If that engine had fully exposed cams that were heavily splashing oil up there and the cover *still* looked like that, I'd be a lot more worried. As it is, I'd be very surprised if there were any sludge to speak of down in the bottom end. I could be wrong, but my gut feeling is that since oil FLOWS in the pan, its clean.

Your suggestion to check the PCV system is VERY sound advice.

 

[Errtt]

Not bad - I'd go easy now on the cleaning. A good detergent oil and maybe a light dose of MMO for the last 1k before oil/filter changes, on short OCIs like 4-5k to start, then stretch out later on. Gradual - no shock treatments.

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted By: glum
They don't say that the maximum is 100 miles, except when the oil is nearly ready to be changed in the first place. That's the basis for the "100 miles maximum" advice:

Quote:
This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty.

When used in clean oil, they recommend a max of 3K miles.

I'm not opining either way, because I'm not interested in the kindergarten name calling I keep seeing in these forums. I will say that I don't understand why some people are OK with using a quart of MMO, but scream like a banshee at the idea of using a few ounces of Sea Foam.

And that's the correct spelling--"Sea Foam". Not "Seafoam" or "SeaFoam". Getting it right helps the people who later on use a search engine to find the pearls of wisdom found in this thread.


I have used "Sea Foam" before and will again in my gas and may/may not again in my oil. I haven't had bad results with it in either use, personally, but probably will not use it for the "shorter than 3K" interval with fresh oil idea.

I have used it up to 250 miles prior to an oil change; on the other hand, though I've found other products that I like better when added to the oil. This was before they changed the instructions to a maximum of 100 miles prior to an oil change, to cover themselves really. The question is the long-term effect on seals etc, that some have questioned before in regards to using it in oil at all. I don't think it's worthwhile in the op's Mercedes really, was all.

Getting back on topic and away from additives discussion, I'd like to mention sane OCI and a mindful owner are probably all this engine will ever need. I do like the Mobil 1 0w-40 recommendation.

 

[Leeer73]

Wow! I must say that I am very impressed by the amount of help you guys are giving me! Awsome tips as well! While I did read everyones post and I do appreciate your time, please just accept me general "THANK YOU" as I can't reply to every post! I will try to reply to all of the questions though!

Originally Posted By: Rob_Roy
Do you have idea what kind of oil and drain intervals were previous used?


I actually have no idea, I checked with my Mercedes dealer over hear and they only have records up to about 50k miles, the last 33k miles are a mystery!

Originally Posted By: hate2work

Nice job on the cleanup, it looks better for sure. Some short runs with PU should finish the job.

What brand of flush did you use?


Thanks! I'm not exactly sure which one I used, I work at an import auto parts place and I just asked my boss to get me the best on the market. I trust him as he's been in the import business for over 30 years!

Originally Posted By: eljefino
That's not bad. I think the valve cover got sludged because it's cooler, it's plastic right? I'd call it "thick varnish" on the motor guts compared to sludge though. Probably should throw a factory PCV valve on there for giggles.


Yes, the valve cover is made up of a composite material like plastic, it already has a pcv valve, I may need to change it though.

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
What oil does this engine call for?


I believe it calls for 5w30 or 5w-40. I have been using Mobil 1 0w-40.

Originally Posted By: unDummy

Is there an oil top off or oil level indicator?

Manual or automatic?
Hows the coolant, brake fluid, steering fluid... look?


No indicator, just fill the specified amount, then check for the level electronically. My car is an Automatic. Everything else looks okay, but I still plan on changing all of the fluids out by 90k miles.

 

[electrolover]

Mobil 1 is a good oil. you dont need any additives(it wasnt that dirty) i think you should stick to a good synthetic like M1 or PU and just do 3k drains for a while. it will get clean on its own with good oil!

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Leeer73


I believe it calls for 5w30 or 5w-40. I have been using Mobil 1 0w-40.



Just keep using that oil, changing it at sane intervals, and you'll be good. Also, I 2nd the suggestion to change the PCV valve.

You don't need to put additives in Mobil 1.

 

[190E26FTW]

Your valve cover is probably made of magnesium. If you want to stay in spec then stick with Mobil 1 0W40 which is what Mercedes benz recommends for your car. Probably should wait a min or so after you drive the car before turning it off to let it cool off a bit.

I have a Mercedes too but not the dual over head cam version that you have. Mine is single.

 

[TomYoung]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: TomYoung
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
You would have to be moronic to put harsh solvents in a crankcase of a modern engine.


Nice language... but you're covered either way as nothing you are driving has a modern engine.
Yes, VVT-i, offset crank, High Compression, DOHC, ECT and DLI are wicked old tech on my 1NZ. I dont know if seafoam is a harsh solvent. But I would recommend against putting harsh solvents** into a crankcase given that seal compatibility is an unknown factor.

** Xylene, toluene, MEK, acetone, and the killer - Nitromethane. Kerosene is prob OK.


I did not mean to disrespect your rides. I went with my niece to get her a 2010 Yaris, and find much to love about the car, plus I dig the reports of them going 200,000 miles with only the most basic maintenance.

 

[GenSan]

Try some German Castrol for some decent cleaning. Run it hard for 3,000 miles/3 months with a filter change at 1,5000 miles as needed.

I was surprised at how black my oil was by oil blotter test in a 1997 3.4L V6 4Runner at 1,000 miles using German Castrol gold. It was verified clean inside with no varnish/sludge from a peak with a camera probe by my mechanic last year. It was my first time using GC.
The current fill of GC with a K&N filter will be changed this upcoming Memorial Day weekend and should be around 6,000 miles.

I have never experienced this engine having such black oil at 1,000 miles using Castrol Edge, Pennzoil Platinum & Ultra, regular Castrol Syntec, Mobil 1 & Mobil 1 Extended Performance, Rotella T5, and Valvoline Maxlife blend & full synthetic. They all turn black closer to 6,000 miles and beyond.

I'm a firm believer now that the ester chemistry in German Castrol did some better cleaning than some other highly-
marketed synthetic cleaning oils available.

 

[Leeer73]

I'll try that out. Thanks again for the help everyone!

 

[ChiTDI]

Leer,
Good choice on the GC for your app. Can you photo a cut open oil filter when you change it out? Might give some understanding to all of us as to how well that oil does clean.