SkyActiv Oil Change Tips?

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I have a Skyactiv 3 lined up for a minor service (oil change and tire rotation). It has about 6mo/6k on the factory fill of 0w-20; I will be using QS 0w-20 syn that I got for free after rebate.

This is a n/c service to my co-worker since he helped me out on a few things. Has anyone done one of these? I know that no one has the [i[proper[/i] filter aside from the dealer, so I will just buy one from there.

My understanding is that the clearance between the plug and the filter is minimal, so the filter will have to come off before the plug can be removed or reinstalled. The plug is also a 8mm female allen, and the torque spec is 22-30 ft/lbs.

Also, per my Accutorq chart, the lug nuts are 21mm and must be torqued to 80 ft-lbs. Can anyone confirm this? I'll probably just blast 'em on with my Accutorq Brown stick.

Any other tips? Thanks.
 
I have one of these cars. The plastic splash pan has a "hatch" on it. You remove one screw and the hatch comes off revealing the drain plug and filter (mounted in that very nice baseplate-up configuration). I checked mine out when it was new and I was able to insert the Allen wrench, no problem. (I wanted to make sure I had the right size on hand.) I bought a Fumoto valve to install when I do the first oil change and now will be wondering if there is enough room for the thing. If there is any space whatsoever between the valve and filter I can use it so I'll keep my fingers crossed.

I had a screw in one of my tires already and when Discount Tire repaired it I noticed that their printout sheet said 85 ft-lb for the lug nuts. But, the pressure was listed as 35psi and the Skyactiv takes one extra pound - 36. 21mm is the wrench size. I don't think the aftermarket has caught up with the changes on this vehicle.

I, too, bought Mazda filters. Apparently, from what I saw on a couple of Mazda web sites, the filter for the MZR 2.0L engine will fit, but since Mazda itself uses a different filter for this engine I will stick with OEM for the time being.

Something you will need to watch out for: If the filter makers continue to simply spec a filter for "Mazda 2.0L" and it is the same cross reference that it is currently you may still want to stick with Mazda OEM filters. Who knows. Maybe the relief spring pressure is different, or maybe the media is different. Since this car has an electronically controlled variable pressure oil pump I wouldn't screw around with the oil filter.
 
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Thanks Mike. My allen keys are not long enough for breaking the plug loose so I will use a ratchet and an allen key socket. We'll see if this setup fits without removing the filter.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Thanks Mike. My allen keys are not long enough for breaking the plug loose so I will use a ratchet and an allen key socket. We'll see if this setup fits without removing the filter.

If you have the room, you can try slipping the box end of a wrench over the end of your allen key and this will help you get more leverage on it. Its alot like slipping a pipe over your breaker bar for more leverage.
 
Or, just clamp a large vice grip onto the allen wrench? I just hope my Fumoto valve will fit! I had one of those Fram Sure Drain valves on my old Accord and really liked it.
 
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
I, too, bought Mazda filters. Apparently, from what I saw on a couple of Mazda web sites, the filter for the MZR 2.0L engine will fit, but since Mazda itself uses a different filter for this engine I will stick with OEM for the time being.


Ya I'd find out for sure. Not too many sites even list a filter for the SkyActiv, Fram at least shows the new filter as a different (metric) thread.
 
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
Or, just clamp a large vice grip onto the allen wrench? I just hope my Fumoto valve will fit! I had one of those Fram Sure Drain valves on my old Accord and really liked it.


Fumotos are GREAT. Putting one on my wife's 3 soon.
 
I did the oil change and tire rotation this morning. The car had 6400 miles on the factory 0w-20, oops.
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I can see this drain plug being a real problem. An 8mm allen head socket does not fit that well in there, and after the plug sees some wear, I can foresee people rounding this out and it will be a nightmare. Bad, bad design Mazda.

Also, just like the newest Honda 2.4 I recently serviced, you have to remove the filter before you can remove the drain plug. There is not enough room to fit a ratchet head + allen socket between the filter and the drain plug. Unless of course, you are using an allen key, but that is just too iffy since the drain plug is torqued fairly tight (30 ft-lbs).

Oh, and be sure to replace the aluminum drain plug washer each time - it does get crushed when you tighten the drain plug.

Due to the mileage, I also did a tire rotation. The lug nuts on this car were very cheap-feeling. Thin and not well-made. Torque spec was 80, so I just blasted them back on with my IR cordless impact and an Accutorq brown stick. The torque wrench clicked at 80 ft-lbs so I think I'm probably a bit over that - but the evenness is what counts.
 
Just be happy the drain plug is not a Pentalobular, Tri-Wing or Bristol type fastener!

Cheers!

p.s. Sheesh! I had to scratch my head to wrap around the "plug is also a 8mm female allen" comment...
 
I have a question that may have an easy answer. Is it possible that a drain plug with a HEX can replace this 8pt. allen plug? Perhaps the plug from the 2.0L engine previously used on Mazda3 would have the same thread. There is a M3 in our family, but it is an older 2.3L '06 model with that stupid plastic air deflector which must be removed to access the filter. FWIW--Oldtommy
 
Take a standard high quality allen [bent 'L' type], and simply use a box end wrench on the end of it for greater leverage.

[This trick works great with a box end wrench also, when you need more leverage.]
 
Originally Posted By: 2oldtommy
I have a question that may have an easy answer. Is it possible that a drain plug with a HEX can replace this 8pt. allen plug? Perhaps the plug from the 2.0L engine previously used on Mazda3 would have the same thread. There is a M3 in our family, but it is an older 2.3L '06 model with that stupid plastic air deflector which must be removed to access the filter. FWIW--Oldtommy

The head of the bolt would probably be too close to the filter for you to slip a wrench in.

mechtech2 said:
Take a standard high quality allen [bent 'L' type], and simply use a box end wrench on the end of it for greater leverage.

[This trick works great with a box end wrench also, when you need more leverage.] [/quote
The "L type" wrenches I have from craftsman are too flimsy to trust for this app. I'd hate to round out the allen on this one, that would be a VERY bad day. I'd stay with a proper allen socket for this one.
 
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