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Should oil brand matter so long as specs are met?
- Thread starter Bwalker
- Start date
Troll city going on here. Give it up.
Just the truth.
So you don’t think a Tacoma that has been modified for off roading or over landing would benefit from a boutique oil in a desert climate with extreme use?
No.
Better air filtration would be more useful for that type of use IME.
On a different take - - An oil brand may have no specifications other than API grade and may actually be the "best" oil for your car. For many decades I have used Bio-based Renewable Lubricants Inc. motor oils. And I probably ran a grade or two or three lower than as specified by the engine manufacturers. All motors had 5 or 6 or 800 BHP. As far as I could demonstrate by oil analysis of various methods, compression tests and by inspection. Wear rates were minimal to none, all engines were spotless, power levels were increased as was fuel economy. There was no current MB, BMW, VW, GM, nor Ford certification. This is still my "go to" oil.
I agree with Bwalker that air filtration may be one of the most important factors and/or achieving a clean oil by changing often when needed. Clean oil by the best air filtration is probably more important than grade in many situations. If the oil stays clean, thickens minimally from oxidation and has an appropriate acid to base ratio then longer oil change intervals are possible.
Ali
I agree with Bwalker that air filtration may be one of the most important factors and/or achieving a clean oil by changing often when needed. Clean oil by the best air filtration is probably more important than grade in many situations. If the oil stays clean, thickens minimally from oxidation and has an appropriate acid to base ratio then longer oil change intervals are possible.
Ali
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
This.
"The spec", particularly for the API stuff, isn't "keep the engine clean" and wear-free, it establishes limits for the amount of wear permitted, the amount of build-up permitted...etc.
Yes, there are engines with mechanical issues that reveal themselves, and the limitations of budget-driven formulation (and approvals) early on. The OP mentioned a Toyota engine as an example of a "tolerant" design, so I think it's appropriate to mention the 2AZ-FE as one that isn't. The Saturn 1.9L and a few Audi engines also belong in this category.
Also worth mentioning is that nothing in any of the API, ILSAC, ACEA or OEM approvals mandates any sort of cleaning. None of the test protocols start with a pre-dirtied component and measure the degree of clean-up. Every one of them starts with a clean component and measures the amount of build-up against the permitted limit. This is a common point of confusion.
The ONLY major company that has developed any sort of "cleaning" test is Valvoline, with a modified version of an existing protocol, to measure the efficacy of the chemical used in Valvoline Restore and Protect against what is permitted to accrue in normal use as measured by the standard.
Short intervals are also not an inoculation against build-up. Sequence IIIH is only 90 hours, and run in a port-injected naturally aspirated engine that has no history of ring sticking or oil consumption. That's the equivalent of 1,800 miles at an average speed of 20 mph.
This is what a pass looks like:
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
I think you mean SAE grade, and your anecdotes of high BHP cars that get babied around on premium boutique oils really doesn't address the subject of how an oil that "meets the spec", particularly when it's just the basic API/ILSAC one, obviates the need for scrutiny of brand, performance...etc.
LSJR has a vid comparing different Mobil 1 flavors all meeting the same spec. Even within the same brand some oils just meet spec and others far exceeded spec. All depends on your particular engine and driving conditions IMO. Plenty of conventional SQ and GF7 oils available if it works for you….
Absolutely!
Both conventional and full synth. oils cover the same specs. So, why not choose the cheapest oil? People who buy synthetics are wasting money.
However, some oils are offered only as full synthetic 0W-20, 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-40 and a handful more.
So, choose your poison!
Specs maybe. But real life is different.Absolutely!
Both conventional and full synth. oils cover the same specs. So, why not choose the cheapest oil? People who buy synthetics are wasting money.
However, some oils are offered only as full synthetic 0W-20, 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-40 and a handful more.
So, choose your poison!
True synthetics, VRP, have entered the chat.
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I used to be a “minimum spec” person years ago, but not anymore. All oils are not the same. Yes, they’ll meet the floor of the API requirements, but if you put me in an experiment where I needed to keep a vehicle for 300k miles and I could either choose to run Mobil ESP or Lucas for its entire lifecycle, the choice is obvious to me even though both are “fine”.
As enthusiasts, I think it’s normal for us to want to push for something a bit higher-level. But I feel the same about air filters, tires, oil filters, etc. I don’t want the bare minimum.
Does brand matter? The logo itself doesn’t matter, but certain brands clearly put more effort into providing a higher quality product than others, and that’s what we do, is identify the higher quality solution.
As enthusiasts, I think it’s normal for us to want to push for something a bit higher-level. But I feel the same about air filters, tires, oil filters, etc. I don’t want the bare minimum.
Does brand matter? The logo itself doesn’t matter, but certain brands clearly put more effort into providing a higher quality product than others, and that’s what we do, is identify the higher quality solution.
I personally don’t want stuck rings and nasty ring grooves so from that perspective no, all oils hitting a spec are not the same. We have seen it on this site where an engine running on “top tier” full synthetic starts shedding carbon gunk when exposed to HPL or VRP.Absolutely!
Both conventional and full synth. oils cover the same specs. So, why not choose the cheapest oil? People who buy synthetics are wasting money.
However, some oils are offered only as full synthetic 0W-20, 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-40 and a handful more.
So, choose your poison!
Really depends, I'm a thicker viscosity and shorter OCI guy. Direct injection changed the game by adding fuel dilution to the mix. If a carburetor flooded an engine you changed the oil. Hard to tell with gas DI engines because it sneaks up on you. I really think most if not all oils today are far superior to the stuff I used when I started driving 45 years ago. And yes, I did my own oil changes, rebuilt my carburetor, and set timing and valve lash. (love mechanical stuff)
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