Should I change my oil already?

[Blue_Goose]

I just brought home a 2007 Chevy HHR and am loving every minute of it

Really fun car for sure

The reason I ask the above question is because this car was built on 9/29/2006. I imagine that the same oil has been in the car since then meaning it has been in there for almost 8 months...car had 272 miles on it when I bought it due to it being a dealer swap from CT to NH. I am used to changing oil about every 2 months because of the miles I pile up.

GM Oil life monitor says it is at 95% but I have never had one of these monitors before so not quite sure on the accuracy of them. Car has maybe 450 miles on it now.....

Would you run this oil out 1K, 2K or 3K before changing or do so even sooner? From what I've heard, Chevy uses Mobil 5000 as their factory fill.

Someone else suggested going right to Synth on the Ecotec based on another members stellar UOA's with the same engine using nothing but synth from day one...comments?


Goose

 

[BradC]

I asked the same question when I got mine. Mine was almost 8 months old when I got it and had 110 miles on it.

I ran the factory fill for 3,000 miles then changed it for another dose of dino to let the engine fully break in.

I ran the second fill for just over 5,000 miles (OLM said 26% remaining) before changing it out for synthetic.

 

[blackdiamond]

I changed the oil on my new Mazdaspeed 3 at 750 with conventional and then synthetic at 5k. I don't think the time is really a factor if that is part of your question.

By the way, I'm glad to know the HHR is a car. It's one of those "is it a truck, car, SUV, SUCar" type of things.

 

[Blue_Goose]

Thanks guys. Hey BR

I'm thinking maybe 1000 and then change with another run of dino..heck I have enough oil in my garage so no problem there lol

Yeah..when I was registering it yesterday the clerk asked me if it was a truck/SUV...I didn't know what to tell her! I said put on the registration whatever they had for my Matrix...Staion Wagon so yeah, I guess it is a car

Goose

 

[Blue_Goose]

Arrgh station that is...jeez even with 2 previews I still misspell stuff...not enough coffee yet...wait I drink decaf..so much for that excuse

Goose

 

[toocrazy2yoo]

My 2005 AccentGT was built November 2004, made the rounds from Balitmore, to the Washington Auto Show of all places in summer 2005, and then sat at the dealer until I purchased it in Feb. 06. I ran it four or five hundred miles and changed the oil. A year and a half, even with no miles, seemed a bit much. Going over things at that time is when I discovered crummy coolant, which I changed out to G05/distilled. It's been a mix of dino, syn, on 5-7K OCI ever since, and the car is a clean, lean, not-so-mean-but-gas-savin machine, ever since.

Take a look at the coolant, too. Lord knows what they put in mine at the beginning, but clearly something with a lotta snotty silicate, and probably crummy water to boot. I have a feeling factories don't trouble themselves with such niceties as distilled water in the mix..

 

[Patman]

Normally I would say to leave the factory fill in for at least 3000 miles, however in this case I might be inclined to change it. I once bought a 95 Trans Am brand new in January 96 and when I found out the car was built in September 94, I was worried that my "new car" had oil in it that was 18 months old! Add to the fact that this car had 250 miles on it (from all the test drives they let people take in it!) and I decided to change the oil the second day I had it.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Goose,

My Subaru had the same thing.

I went to 1200 miles (could not get to it @ 1k) and changed it out.

I'd recommend 1k and then again at 4k then follow the OLM!

Get a UOA after the 2nd OLM change and see how its doing.

Take care and enjoy! Bill

 

[Zaedock]

Hey Goose. I'd go to 1K too and then change. The OLM in my wife's '04 Malibu Maxx LT works well. The last UOA I did after winter '05-'06 was good and the TBN looked about right for the mileage I had on the oil (which was WPP SuperTech 5W30).

I hope you have good luck with your HHR. We're still in the lawsuit with GM, with the amount of issues we've had with this car. It's coming up on 36K miles and it needs brakes due to a pulsation (4th set!), front strut seats & towers, the rack&pinion was replaced back in Nov, it still has the "hard/delayed start" issue after 6 re-flashes(a TSB item), a transaxle seal, rear ABS controller, and a few other small things. This has definitely been an experience.
(sorry for the hijack to update everyone)

I will say that besides these issues, it really is a nice car that is fun to drive and is very comfortable and roomy for a family of four. I just wish it didn't have so many problems.

On a brighter note, we'll be heading back up to N.Conway in a couple of weeks. Driving the 'Bu up as it gets about 30 mpg on the highway.

Take it easy.

 

[Steve S]

When in doubt change the oil out .Do the trans etc also.

 

[ThirdeYe]

I would just change it around 200 miles or so, and refill it with conventional dino for another OCI, then switch it to synthetic if you plan on going that route. Best of luck

 

[Blue_Goose]

Wow Zaedock! Sounds like my 2004 Vue...what a hunk of GM junk that was...on the flip side my wife has the same year Vue and her's has only needed brakes and tires in 95K miles...go figure. Conway is a nice trip...just don't do it this weekend! lol

All ideas sound good guys...I'll hit 1K by Memorial Day weekend so that seems like a good project to tackle. Think I will throw either some Shell or Valvoline A/C for a 3K change and then flip a coin and decide if synth is the way to go with the Ecotec after that...I have an awful lot of Shell though as well as SL Havoline....think SL is ok to run in this engine? I know my Matrix said SL or above on the cap...not sure on the HHR.


Gotta figure out how to do an oil change now...never have dealt with a cartridge before



Goose

 

[cousincletus]

Snap-On has the special socket you need. It's a 32mm, 3/8" drive shallow well socket. If you have a Pep Boys near you, they have it too. I think Snap-On sells it for 27 bucks, but can't remember for sure.

 

[cousincletus]

Quote:

---

Hey Goose. I'd go to 1K too and then change. The OLM in my wife's '04 Malibu Maxx LT works well. The last UOA I did after winter '05-'06 was good and the TBN looked about right for the mileage I had on the oil (which was WPP SuperTech 5W30).

I hope you have good luck with your HHR. We're still in the lawsuit with GM, with the amount of issues we've had with this car. It's coming up on 36K miles and it needs brakes due to a pulsation (4th set!), front strut seats & towers, the rack&pinion was replaced back in Nov, it still has the "hard/delayed start" issue after 6 re-flashes(a TSB item), a transaxle seal, rear ABS controller, and a few other small things. This has definitely been an experience.
(sorry for the hijack to update everyone)

I will say that besides these issues, it really is a nice car that is fun to drive and is very comfortable and roomy for a family of four. I just wish it didn't have so many problems.

On a brighter note, we'll be heading back up to N.Conway in a couple of weeks. Driving the 'Bu up as it gets about 30 mpg on the highway.

Take it easy.

---

Sorry to hijack your thread, Goose, but I've heard about the Maxx issues too, where the regular Malibu and Malibu Classic seem to be OK. I can help you with the brake issues, as I had the same with my 2002 Cavalier. When you go to replace them yourself after the warranty is up, replace with aftermarket cheapie pads and rotors. The aftermarket pads are softer and less likely to warp rotors. Also, your brake problem may be a misdiagnosed rear drum problem. If the Maxx has rear drum brakes, have the drums turned and replace linings with aftermarket, (softer) relined shoes. I replaced my front rotors and pads and the shuddering continued. Turned out to be the rear brakes.

 

[RF Overlord]

Goose, we had a member here who apparently was involved in the development of the GM OLM and is it supposed to be fairly accurate. Unfortunately, he was hooted off the board by a bunch of nay-sayers so we weren't able to really pick his brain.

Having said that, I have always done the first change in every new car I've bought at about 1,000 to 1,500 miles. I fully realise that is most likely very out-dated thinking, but it makes me feel better and allows me to bond with the car sooner...

Now that I've become an Eco-Nazi, I probably won't be doing that anymore, though...

 

[Zaedock]

Quote:

---

When you go to replace them yourself after the warranty is up, replace with aftermarket cheapie pads and rotors. The aftermarket pads are softer and less likely to warp rotors. Also, your brake problem may be a misdiagnosed rear drum problem. If the Maxx has rear drum brakes, have the drums turned and replace linings with aftermarket, (softer) relined shoes. I replaced my front rotors and pads and the shuddering continued. Turned out to be the rear brakes.

---

It has disk all around. Vented front, solid rear. The factory rotors are just junk. If it rains out, the rotors form excessive rust. We've actually gone shopping for a few hours (it was raining out)and have had audible rust grindage when hitting the brakes when we go to leave. The factory rotors are garbage steel. My Jeep YJ trail rig is used once a month for a trail ride and doesn't do this. I worked through school (EE) doing front end and brake work and have never seen brakes that degrade this badly.

Anyway, again, sorry Goose. Getting back to oil, we're currently running Valvoline A/C for a 5000 mile run. To be honest, the car seems to like SuperTech (XOM & WPP versions)and Exxon Superflow better than the others. I know it's OK running any SM dino, but we all know how different oils "feel" when you start it up after a change.

Take care.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

My Colorado was built 18 months prior to myself taking delivery of it. I live in a four-season climate that sees all kinds of high low temps - humidity too. I waited & changed the oil at 3K. Engine is fine - super-silent and does not consume any oil at 20K.

So here's proof that you can do just fine for 3K on your factory engine oil.

 

[BradC]

Quote:

---

Snap-On has the special socket you need. It's a 32mm, 3/8" drive shallow well socket. If you have a Pep Boys near you, they have it too. I think Snap-On sells it for 27 bucks, but can't remember for sure.

---

The Lisle 14700 is another made especially for removing the Ecotec filter canister cap.

A standard 32mm or 1 1/4" socket works just as well, and is a lot cheaper. The 1 1/4" socket seems to fit better than the 32mm socket does.

 

[Blue_Goose]

I saw a 1 1/4 socket for like 6 dollars at Advance Auto tonight. I think i will pick one of those up.

Thanks guys!



Goose