Short trips not as bad as we think they are?

[CATERHAM]

I too don't consider your wife driving distances "short trips" and really short trips are not much of an issue in the summer.

It's in the winter that it's more of an issue, and the best indicator of trips that are too short is condensation under the oil filler cap after a typical run.

 

[OldCowboy]

The IOLM in your Fusion will definitely take your operating conditions like air temp, engine temp, acceleration, speed, throttle position, etc. into account. You will see the % oil life left drop quicker in the winter than in the summer. Just use a good 5W20 synblend or full synthetic, a good filter, and let the IOLM tell you when to change the oil.

 

[rg200amp]

Does you OLM take fuel dilution into account? Condensation? Ect. . . .

I think not.


Short trips allow those things to accumulate.

 

[Quest]

although carb'ed cars may experience more severe cylinder wear during frequent short trips (choke on pretty much most of the time, causing cylinder wall lubrication washout, lubrication fuel dilution, carboning up of the combustion chamber and piston-rings, oil control rings may jam due to carboning, etc. Even EFI cars may not immune to this (but less wear due to more precise (predetermined) fuel/air mixture when engine is cold, etc.

At the end, you still experience cylinder wall tapering and carboning, due to frequent thermalcycling (and sub-optimal operating temperature on the engine).

Q.

 

[Klutch9]

Originally Posted By: rg200amp
Does you OLM take fuel dilution into account? Condensation? Ect. . . .

I think not.


Short trips allow those things to accumulate.


Maybe, but I have no idea. The IOLM assumes you have a properly working motor, mechanically speaking. Maybe it does assume some fuel dilution and/or condensation for short operating times? The owner's manual makes no mention of this, however, but it does make mention of the other aspects that affect the oil life (throttle position, coolant temp, etc).

 

[demarpaint]

After reading that GM was reprogramming their OLM for DI engines, as reported here, it got me thinking. If I was to follow it I'd back it up with a UOA, especially for short hops or SS use. All it would take was one or two to make me more confident in the system.

JMO

 

[lexus114]

Originally Posted By: Quest
although carb'ed cars may experience more severe cylinder wear during frequent short trips (choke on pretty much most of the time, causing cylinder wall lubrication washout, lubrication fuel dilution, carboning up of the combustion chamber and piston-rings, oil control rings may jam due to carboning, etc. Even EFI cars may not immune to this (but less wear due to more precise (predetermined) fuel/air mixture when engine is cold, etc.

At the end, you still experience cylinder wall tapering and carboning, due to frequent thermalcycling (and sub-optimal operating temperature on the engine).

Q.



Pretty much true re; the later vehicles with fuel injection....Except for the clowns that drive around with their check engine lights on! Having bad 02 sensors etc.

 

[CharBaby]

My wifes '01 RX-300 just hit 3,000 miles in 9 months(Jan.18th,'11 to present) The oil on the dipstick still look pretty good and the sludge monster(1MZFE)sounds great.

The engine has 2qts PP and 3qts PYB/PuroClassic Filter.
I'll do the OCI in OCT 2011 and probably use 2qts PP and 3qts QSGB and a PureOne Filter. I'll change again in the Spring 2012(Apr-May).

 

[lexus114]

Originally Posted By: Char Baby
My wifes '01 RX-300 just hit 3,000 miles in 9 months(Jan.18th,'11 to present) The oil on the dipstick still look pretty good and the sludge monster(1MZFE)sounds great.

The engine has 2qts PP and 3qts PYB/PuroClassic Filter.
I'll do the OCI in OCT 2011 and probably use 2qts PP and 3qts QSGB and a PureOne Filter. I'll change again in the Spring 2012(Apr-May).



I dont get the mixing? Why dont you just use straight Conventional or Synthetic? Or buy a Synthetic blend? jc

 

[CharBaby]

Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
My wifes '01 RX-300 just hit 3,000 miles in 9 months(Jan.18th,'11 to present) The oil on the dipstick still look pretty good and the sludge monster(1MZFE)sounds great.

The engine has 2qts PP and 3qts PYB/PuroClassic Filter.
I'll do the OCI in OCT 2011 and probably use 2qts PP and 3qts QSGB and a PureOne Filter. I'll change again in the Spring 2012(Apr-May).



I dont get the mixing? Why dont you just use straight Conventional or Synthetic? Or buy a Synthetic blend? jc



You have to understand just how I buy my oil/filters.
I have so many different brands of oil(dino and syn) that all I try to do is make a decent balance. Read my "Recent Score" in the "Products Rebates section". This is how I buy the oil

The PP for example, I paid ~.34/qt(after sale, coupons, rebates) and I don't think that I have ever paid more than $2-$2.50/qt for Synthtetic oil on discount shelves(all current ILSAC ratings)...And some dino oils I have actually gotten for FREE or close to it. Mixing helps me use up my oil stash(FIFO) by using up what I have and there are alway orphan qts due to having so many different brands. Sometimes I'll buy up a store shelf if it's priced right. I've even hurt myself sweeping the whole shelf into my shopping cart

Also, if you have ever read any of my post/replys in the past, you'll notice that I have been mixing oils for nearly 40 years.
Today, I just mix the 2 syn & 3 dino instead of 5 different wgts each being a different brand name when money was tight

If there is any other curiositys that members here have about mixing oil, I can go into more detail. One other thing that I can say is, that I only buy oils held in high regard here at BITOG!

 

[CharBaby]

Also, I buy Techron, Regane and other good FSC's this way along with other fluids(tranny, brake, P/S, differential fluid) and other car STUFF, (waxes/cleaners/polishes).

If I see product(s) on a discount shelf/tabel "CHEAP" and it's something I use regularly, I'm backing up the truck.