Short and long term storage

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This was also posted on LS1 Tech, so sorry for members who read both.
I have 3 vehicles with LS based engines:

2001 Silverado - LM7 5.3L - 170K
03BF5FA0-266E-41EC-8664-9A6EB6770416_zpszo6qzu3j.jpg


2008 Z06 - LS7 7.0L - 17K
DSCN0336.jpg


2012 CTS-V wagon - LSA 6.2L - 32K
DSCN0963_zpsfb5a2c0b.jpg



Since I only drive one vehicle at a time, they each have a tendency to sit for varrying amounts of time. The Z06 is a play vehicle and only comes out on the weekends every week to 6 weeks.

The truck was my DD for 9 years, it was stolen back in February and recovered. now I drive it every day for a week or two and then swtich off with the CTS-V

The CTS-V was supposed to be the replacement for the truck, but I love my truck too much. So I alternate every week or two driving the two vehicles.

All vehicles are filled with M1 5W-30

Long Term Storage:
I'm getting concern about the truck, I'm getting some noise out of the engine and it seems to be getting worse. I was told a main bearing was probably going bad back in December, but I have between 40-60 PSI of oil pressure. In any manner I am getting a knocking noise. Not mention I am at times getting a "gear whine" noise, that i don't remember before the truck was stolen.

In any manner I love the truck but I am thinking about putting it into long term storage until my son gets older and we can work on it together. I estimate it will take $7-8K of investment in a new engine,trans and transfer case rebuild to get it where I want.
What would I need to do to prep it for 10+ years of storage. I assume when I get it out I would need to hit it with a pressure oiler.


Short term storage:
What is the longest an LS engine can sit (a week, 2, or etc) before I need to worry about causing allot of damage consistently on start up?
Is there anything I can do to minimize damage damage on a week to 6 week storage time frame? I've seen pressure oilers for these cars and using it every time I want to start up the Z seems like a pain in the [censored].
 
Don't do anything special. It sounds like your just reducing the use of the pickup and not really storing it. Continued use probably won't make the repairs any more expensive if you take it easy. Maybe the person that borrowed your pickup drove it like he stole it. Park them out of the sun in a garage if possible and drive every vehicle at least once a month and remember to get them up to temp as often as practical. The higher wear period is any time below normal operating temperature of the engine oil before everything starts working as designed, not the start up because it's a very short period and your oil left behind does it's job. Put a battery tender on each car once in a while if not driven very often just to check on the health of each charging systems and batteries. In the first year do a UOA on each vehicle to help determine an oil change interval. Also don't forget to take care of your other fluids like the tranny, dif(s), coolant and brake and p/s fluid.
 
Long term storage: Do an oil change with quicksilver or pennzoil marine oil or use 5w30 yellow bottle and starbrite marine oil stabilizer. Let it circulate in the engine for 20 minutes.

Add 2-3 bottles of Prestone anti-rust to engine coolant. Or change coolant completely.

Drain all but about 1/2 gallon of fuel and add 6oz of Marine Stabil to the fuel and let run dry. Pour 8 oz of MMO into empty fuel tank.

Let engine cool. pull spark plugs and fog cylinders with marine fogging oil liberally. Run engine on starter with plugs out to lube rings. Reinstall plugs with anti seize.

Seal air intake with aluminum foil to keep critters out.

Put mousetraps under hood and inside cab.

Remove battery
 
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1-6 weeks is not short term. Just start and drive them at will. New cars sit on lots for months at a time.


Long term truck storage: Just park it. You just stated you're going to rebuild the drivetrain anyway.
 
I would suggest a battery tender for all vehicles that sit for a couple weeks or more at a time.

My personal car sits for several weeks at a time, could be 3 weeks or could be 8 weeks. Every time I drive it, I make sure it's up to temp for a good period of time as I normally drive it to work (37mi each way). I don't do anything special other than the battery tender.

Starts every time and runs the exact same way as the last time it ran. Right now it's mainly used when my work car is in the shop and when my wife and I drive a distance on our own as we leave our van with whoever is watching our girls. I've put less than 10k miles on it in the last 6.5 years.
 
OP,

I love the look of that Silverado - I like the color and the newer-style wheels (same type I put on my '03 several years ago ; )

IMO the best thing you can do for that Silverado is drive it - once or twice per month, for an hour or so. M1 is a fine oil, though in your case I'd consider changing over to M1 HM. Mine really liked GC 0W-30 and PP/PU 10W-30 when I lived in TX, so I think those would be good choices too. Drive it easy (not like you drive the Vette or CTS-V!) to keep the transmission happy.

Mix in some blue (marine formula) Sta-Bil with every fill-up, and try to burn through at least 3 tanks of gas per year. Change the oil and filter every other year. Use an expensive oil filter (one with wire-backed synthetic media).
 
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Don't do anything special. It sounds like your just reducing the use of the pickup and not really storing it. Continued use probably won't make the repairs any more expensive if you take it easy. Maybe the person that borrowed your pickup drove it like he stole it. Park them out of the sun in a garage if possible and drive every vehicle at least once a month and remember to get them up to temp as often as practical. The higher wear period is any time below normal operating temperature of the engine oil before everything starts working as designed, not the start up because it's a very short period and your oil left behind does it's job. Put a battery tender on each car once in a while if not driven very often just to check on the health of each charging systems and batteries. In the first year do a UOA on each vehicle to help determine an oil change interval. Also don't forget to take care of your other fluids like the tranny, dif(s), coolant and brake and p/s fluid.


What I'd like to do is get a new or newer truck in a year or so and truly put the truck to rest. We are taking more road trips and a truck would be ideal and I just and weary about taking mine.
My inlaws recently built a house out in the country and they are going to build a metal barn out there, I have proposed helping pay for a little larger one if I can store vehicles there over the years. So I would have access every month or 2 when we go visit them. From what I have been reading that driving it out there, prepping it and storing it for 10 years might not be the best idea. When we go out there every month or so I could start it up and drive it around.

One thing I didn't know was how long it took for all the oil to drain out of the bearings, basically not even a film left. When the truck sat from May to july and I started it up it, it seemed to make allot of noise for the first 15-30 seconds. I don't remember the same noise after sitting a week (although it still made noise for 15-30 seconds).

Another issue I face now is my commute decreased from 4 miles to 1 and the CTS is generally up to temp by the time I get there but the truck usually takes a little longer. Although in the evenings I go for a ride and I drive 4-5 miles each way to the trail head.

From the condition of the truck after the theft, I just didn't get the impression they drove it harder than I have for the last 9 years and it had just been driven for 17 miles right before they stole it.
Unfortunatly the tranny seemed like on its way out before the theft, but I'm amazed it has lasted this long. the 4L60e is not know to be robust and the fact my truck has had an extra 50 rwhp since 80K miles, I am truly surprised it has lasted. But I don't remember the whining noise. I will try replacing all the drive train fluids.

The vette is already on a batteyr tender and I would get one for the truck, it seems to do ok for a month or 2. When we lived downtown I would go weeks without driving it and it would never have a problem starting. The CTS seems to be as finiky when it comes to batteries as the vette.

The Vette already gets an oil change every 5K or once a year and I would do the same for the truck.
 
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Originally Posted By: Doog
Long term storage: Do an oil change with quicksilver or pennzoil marine oil or use 5w30 yellow bottle and starbrite marine oil stabilizer. Let it circulate in the engine for 20 minutes.

Add 2-3 bottles of Prestone anti-rust to engine coolant. Or change coolant completely.

Drain all but about 1/2 gallon of fuel and add 6oz of Marine Stabil to the fuel and let run dry. Pour 8 oz of MMO into empty fuel tank.

Let engine cool. pull spark plugs and fog cylinders with marine fogging oil liberally. Run engine on starter with plugs out to lube rings. Reinstall plugs with anti seize.

Seal air intake with aluminum foil to keep critters out.

Put mousetraps under hood and inside cab.

Remove battery


One of my biggest concerns is the critters.

I am assuming allot of this wouldn't need to be done if I start it a few times a year?

Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Don't forget to put the truck up on jack stands or increase air pressure to prevent flat spotting on the tires.


Will do!

Originally Posted By: zaedock
1-6 weeks is not short term. Just start and drive them at will. New cars sit on lots for months at a time.


Long term truck storage: Just park it. You just stated you're going to rebuild the drivetrain anyway.


you make a good point on both fronts, I just like not to cause any more damage if possible.

Originally Posted By: racer12306
I would suggest a battery tender for all vehicles that sit for a couple weeks or more at a time.

My personal car sits for several weeks at a time, could be 3 weeks or could be 8 weeks. Every time I drive it, I make sure it's up to temp for a good period of time as I normally drive it to work (37mi each way). I don't do anything special other than the battery tender.

Starts every time and runs the exact same way as the last time it ran. Right now it's mainly used when my work car is in the shop and when my wife and I drive a distance on our own as we leave our van with whoever is watching our girls. I've put less than 10k miles on it in the last 6.5 years.


The vette is already on one and it looks like the CTS might need one too, and for longer storage the truck will get one for sure.

Originally Posted By: danthaman1980
OP,

I love the look of that Silverado - I like the color and the newer-style wheels (same type I put on my '03 several years ago ; )

IMO the best thing you can do for that Silverado is drive it - once or twice per month, for an hour or so. M1 is a fine oil, though in your case I'd consider changing over to M1 HM. Mine really liked GC 0W-30 and PP/PU 10W-30 when I lived in TX, so I think those would be good choices too. Drive it easy (not like you drive the Vette or CTS-V!) to keep the transmission happy.

Mix in some blue (marine formula) Sta-Bil with every fill-up, and try to burn through at least 3 tanks of gas per year. Change the oil and filter every other year. Use an expensive oil filter (one with wire-backed synthetic media).


Thanks! it used to have 07 GMC 20" rims, but they were stolen, I luckily had saved these from when they were on an earlier style of the truck.

I try not to drive the truck too hard, but it is so difficult! I will look at different oils, I usually have been using M1 since Costco usually has it on sale and I stock up.

1 reason I have been taking the truck out to my inlaws is to get more road time on it and clear out the gas, but for longer storage I will need to put fuel treatments in.
 
Would an additive like lucas oil stabilizer cause the oil to remain on the bearing surface longer or quiet the engine a bit? Specifically referring to the truck here.
 
Originally Posted By: Stone150
Would an additive like lucas oil stabilizer cause the oil to remain on the bearing surface longer or quiet the engine a bit? Specifically referring to the truck here.


No, I wouldn't use the Lucas.

Maybe a thicker oil would remain on engine parts a little longer? M1 HM 10W-30? Or maybe a xW-40?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: danthaman1980
Originally Posted By: Stone150
Would an additive like lucas oil stabilizer cause the oil to remain on the bearing surface longer or quiet the engine a bit? Specifically referring to the truck here.


No, I wouldn't use the Lucas.

Maybe a thicker oil would remain on engine parts a little longer? M1 HM 10W-30? Or maybe a xW-40?


I would think to a certain point, but in Houston heat I would think it would all eventually flow to the same point.
 
Originally Posted By: Stone150

I would think to a certain point, but in Houston heat I would think it would all eventually flow to the same point.


yes, it all eventually ends up in the pan.

And that's precisely when you want a lighter weight oil that will circulate much more quickly when you eventually restart the vehicle.

OP may want to check out the Amsoil line of Z-Rod oils specifically mentioned as containing additives just for vehicles that are stored for periods of time. They certainly won't hurt...
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: Stone150

I would think to a certain point, but in Houston heat I would think it would all eventually flow to the same point.


yes, it all eventually ends up in the pan.

And that's precisely when you want a lighter weight oil that will circulate much more quickly when you eventually restart the vehicle.

OP may want to check out the Amsoil line of Z-Rod oils specifically mentioned as containing additives just for vehicles that are stored for periods of time. They certainly won't hurt...


I'll check it out, thanks!
 
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