Shift Solenoids Cleaner additive?

Husam

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Replace the solenoid in question. 4-5 shift.
Or give lubegard some more time.
It usually takes 200-300kms before I really notice a difference after applying lubegard, in city driving with lots of shifting.

I already drove over 200KMs with Lubegard.

What I just did is - i have a "Launch" Scanner with me anyway - I did a live stream on a few solenoids and here are the screenshots.

The culprit is Shift Control Solenoid Valve C (35R/C) which is responsible for 2nd to 3rd AND 4th to 5th shifts. I am not quite sure if the voltage is within standard limits but it seems that this specific solenoid's voltage is the least of all. Paying close attention to its behavior, I felt the downshift from 3rd to 2nd being a bit harsh too.

Please take a look at the attached images. (check the legend under each diagram as the color code changes from one image to the other)

What do you think?


Thank you,
Husam
 

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No additive is going to dislodge a metallic particle once it has magnetically adhered to a solenoid.
True, but if it is varnish the esters might break it down and get it functioning properly. I'd give the product at least 500 miles before replacing the solenoid/solenoids.
 
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Since the reported voltage is probably a result of duty cycle, I don't know that one being higher or lower than others is an indicator, unless you can find documentation that lists the reasonable range for each sensor. If anything, I would expect the TCM to request a higher duty cycle of a solenoid on a port that is not reaching the proper pressure at the output port. If you are able to see requested pressures vs. actual pressure readings, that would be more useful. Also watching line requested vs. actual line pressure during that shift would be useful. I don't know if that is an Aisin or a ZF transmission, but looking in forums for other vehicles that use that transmission might be helpful.
 
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True, but if it is varnish the esters might break it down and get it functioning properly. I'd give the product at least 500 miles before replacing the solenoid/solenoids.
What do you have to loose.......

It even double the dose for application.
You can use up to 2oz per quart in your trans.
 
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This stuff has worked for me before on an old Ford Escort (Mazda version).

completely cured the problem for 80k kilometers until the car was junked
 
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Husam

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Shift Control Solenoid Valve C (35R/C) was replaced and the transmission shifts smooth now. However I am considering XADO additive in the next ATF change to repair any worn clutches.
 

MolaKule

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Shift Control Solenoid Valve C (35R/C) was replaced and the transmission shifts smooth now. However I am considering XADO additive in the next ATF change to repair any worn clutches.
Wet clutches cannot be repaired or rebuilt chemically, despite Xado's marketing hype; it is physically impossible to do so, and I am surprised no one has taken them to task over their outrageous claims.

I would also stay away from LubeGard Platinum and Auto-RX as they can change the friction coefficients of the wet clutches and just add to your problems.
 
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Wet clutches cannot be repaired or rebuilt chemically, despite Xado's marketing hype; it is physically impossible to do so, and I am surprised no one has taken them to task over their outrageous claims.

I would also stay away from LubeGard Platinum and Auto-RX as they can change the friction coefficients of the wet clutches and just add to your problems.
I don’t remember XADO claiming that “revitalizing” wet clutches was a thing their product could do?
 

MolaKule

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I don’t remember XADO claiming that “revitalizing” wet clutches was a thing their product could do?
  • Rebuilds And Restores Metal Parts And Protects Them From Future Wear.
  • Anti Friction Modifier. Eliminates Surfaces Defects & Protects From Extreme Heat
  • Stops Transmission Shudder, Reduces Noise & Vibration. Ultimate Stop Slipping Additive
  • Increases Performance Reliability And Prolongs Service Life Of Control Gears
  • Universal for Automatic, CVT, Tiptronic, Manumatic, Semi-Automatic Transmission
from


Wet clutches contain a metal clutch plate and a clutch disk with friction material. And let's not forget the metal bearings and gearing.

"Universal for Automatic, CVT, Tiptronic, Manumatic, Semi-Automatic Transmission"

I would love to see it rebuild the metal belt and pulley surfaces in my CVT. :geek:

Any claims of this nature is physically impossible and any product making these claims should be avoided and shunned, IMHO.
 

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I don't think that's what they are claiming, though? The claims are on page 4 and 5 of this pdf


Video here


They aren't claiming this stuff will go onto/into any metal surface any time and under any circumstance. Load on wet clutch plates is actually relatively low per area and relatively well cooled per area - isn't that the idea/reason for multiples of them stacked? And they're not likely to be gouged/flaked with valleys/angles for this stuff to more favorably migrate to - but rather relatively smooth. So wouldn't in a "classic" automatic transmission this stuff be much more likely to end up on wear/hot spots on things like pistons/pumps, gears, and bearings - but not so much wet clutches? And then the overall reduction in frictional waste heat presumably helps the unit to survive longer overall.
 
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Also think about adding a magnefine ATF filter onone of your trans cooler lines.
It will take a lot of the particles out of your trans.
I was thinking this too. Does the genesis have a trans filter?

ive had a few used volvos. The transmissions don’t have a filter, but just a screen. They are known to develop a shift flare from 1 to 2, and in the first gen s60 is very common. One of mine had it when I bought it. I added a external magnefine filter and did 3 drain/fills with amsoil. Over 15,000 miles the flare completely disappeared.

in my experience, it is very rare for something like a fluid change and a filter to correct a shift issue, but I guess it can happen, since it did here. 70,000 miles later, it’s still shifting like new.

m
 

MolaKule

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I don't think that's what they are claiming, though? The claims are on page 4 and 5 of this pdf
So wouldn't in a "classic" automatic transmission this stuff be much more likely to end up on wear/hot spots on things like pistons/pumps, gears, and bearings - but not so much wet clutches? And then the overall reduction in frictional waste heat presumably helps the unit to survive longer overall.
  • Rebuilds And Restores Metal Parts And Protects Them From Future Wear.
  • Anti Friction Modifier. Eliminates Surfaces Defects & Protects From Extreme Heat
  • Stops Transmission Shudder, Reduces Noise & Vibration. Ultimate Stop Slipping Additive
  • Increases Performance Reliability And Prolongs Service Life Of Control Gears
  • Universal for Automatic, CVT, Tiptronic, Manumatic, Semi-Automatic Transmission
The text in bold absolutely makes this claim, a physically impossible (tribologically impossible) situation.

This stuff will be on every part of an automatic transmission including the clutch packs, and it will get into the clutch disk material, modifying the dynamic friction coefficient.

Believe what you will, but the physics and chemistry does not support the text in bold and any product that makes this claim should be shunned.
 
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Okay if you first watch the linked video above and then see the claim

“It restores parts' original geometry and then coats them with new durable layer of ceramic-metal to protect against future wear”

You’re saying the video doesn’t support that claim? From my point of view it does?
 
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