shift kit/ valve body for 4R70W?

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Got it narrowed down to a Transgo shift kit or FatoryTech Valve body built by Greg Evans. Not doing the work myself, just don't have gonads for messing with a transmission. ShiftKit is about 115 dollars, plus about 4 hours of work at 60 bucks and hour. Valvebody is about 225 dollars with about 1.5 hours to install at same price. I want better shifting, longer transmission life and someday I might "chip" it. Not currently hauling anything except a 18 foot inboard from time to time. This is also a 4x4 truck with the 5.4l engine.
 
Yes, I have. But it just didn't "feel" right. Really liked the valve bodies but just don't know enough of what I need to know to make a uniform and educated purchase.
 
Hmmmm, factorytech only offers a shift plate and not a valve body. Do they do the same thing?
 
Have you ever considered to just chip it or put a tuner without the shift kit? Mines been "chipped" and I did notice quite a difference in the shifting points, it has become more stiffer and the rev points have increased. Just a thought considering the amount of money it will take with the kit you speak of, you could buy a couple of tuners for that price.
 
What you did is electronically increased the fluid pressure which in turn puts a lot of pressure on the oil pump inside the transmission. With a shift kit, valve body or new separator plate, your increasing the fluid pressure by increasing amount of fluid flowing through the valves. Your taxing your pump and it will fail sooner or later. With a tuner, your also asking the springs, accumulators and check ball valves to accept higher pressures without increases fluid flow. Lot of transmission builders will tell you not to do that as it will shorten the life of the transmission. A tuner will increase your rev points regardless of transmission settings. Money wise, the last time I checked, a tuner runs about 350 to 450 depending if you go with Diablo or Superchip. New C plate for my truck is 93 dollars delivered, and about two hours of work at a tranny shop at 60 bucks an hour, still cheaper. Plus with a tuner, to get the biggest bang for the buck, you got to run premium fuel, which I ain't going to do. Bad enough the truck gets 15 mpg.
 
Trannys failing from a being chipped or tuned, that is some thing new to me considering all the guys I know that are running them in their gassers and diesels. I guess you could be correct if one was hauling heavy loads on a regular basis or racing there truck but in the long run if you change the fluid every so often the tranny should last a very long time. Are you lookin to increase preformance or just beefin up your tranny? Might want to look into a lower gear ratio unless you already have them, maybe 4:10's or 4:56's.
 
I'd go with Factory Tech...I've been a happy customer for 2 years now with my FTVB equipped 4R70W. My 4R70W is seeing around 500 lb-ft put through it too.
 
i have the trans-go in my 4r70w and i love it. I have a diablosport predator as well and have the shift psi all the way. Shifts are perfect. I dont know if im damaging it though?
 
The plate kit and the valve body basically perform the same functions, as I understand it. The plate is cheaper, initially I thought it was easier to install but I think they are about the same.

Like BlownF150 says, I also know a lot of folks with both of these Factory Tech mods (as awell as some Monster Box owners) and I think you'll be happy with the results.

I'd go the Factory Tech if I had to start over.

My buddy is a distibutor, here's what he says about them:
For those with the AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions, Factory Tech now makes a separator plate kit that lets you change the shift calibrations to a more performance feel and also allows you to return the unit totally to stock. And it’s very affordable compared to most shift improvers including our previous 4R70W/4R75E Main Control kit.

The secret is instead of getting a different Main Control Valve Body; we make a shift calibration plate that replaces the factory one. The factory plate is not available by itself from Ford and if you install a kit that requires drilling, and want to return it to stock, you have to buy a whole new Main Control for over $300 from your dealer.

There are 2 models; the “B Plate” is for AODE and 4R70W units from 1996 through 2000 model years, the “C Plate” is for 4R70W and 4R75E units model year 2001 and up. Both come with new accumulator pistons, a new spring that does not need to be installed but can be for a firmer 1-2 shift and gaskets, everything you need except a filter and fluid. Also includes easy to follow instructions.

Note, we do not recommend using this method to modify 1992-1995 model year AODE transmissions, there are just too many things about the early models that require more extensive modification; you can use a Factory Tech 4R70W Main Control kit to update your transmission to the newer Main Control for most models.

Q: so is this a mod that is done w/o the valve body mod? if it is, are there pros/cons to having the $225 valve body vs this plate kit?
A: No benefit to either, just a different way to achieve the same end result.
 
Just got it installed yesterday. What a difference. From stop, it takes off a whole #ell of a lot quicker from stop. If you stomp it to the point it goes into second, it's like a thump, you feel it, the truck feels it. Kind of wondering if I shouldn't have went with the firm setting. Slamming into 2 makes me nervous, but there isn't any lag time, that's for sure. The 2/3 shift is great and then into OD is great too. When starting "normal" you can still feel the 1/2 shift, but it's not that bad. Hate to have to drop the pan and put the 1/2 accumulator spring back in, it was a mess.
 
10-4, got a Tennessee run coming up the weekend after July 4th, I'll see what she does then. The last trip, she got about 18, which really surprised me. I don't think that shift kit will matter much on the highway.
 
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