Shift into Drive while doing a Transmission Flush

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Someone once told me that when doing a transmission flush (fluid exchange), that I should move the transmission into Drive inorder for the fluid to be pumped from the torque converter. He said that is not true for all cars, but the ones he dealt with, he noticed that a flush done in Park did not get a lot of the fluid out of the torque converter.

Anyone have any validity on that? Would it harm anything by doing it that way?
 
I'm having trouble figuring out how that someone decided not all the fluid was being flushed from the torque converter in Park. I understand the fluid moves in series through the torque converter. I believe that if there was no movement through the torque converter, there would be no movement of fluid through the system.

That doesn't mean it's useless to perform the flush in Drive. I'm not intimately familiar with the internal plumbing of the transmission. It probably flushes areas of the transmission that wouldn't be flushed otherwise in Park.... kinda like activating the ABS to get that extra bit of old brake fluid out of there. I just don't see how the second sentence of your post can be true. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
 
I had a hard time figuring that out, I even asked Amsoil's tech services, since I used the Amsoil ATF and their flush method on the website, and they said there is no evidence of it being a better method by putting it in Drive. It seemed to be the same rate of fluid pumping out, whether Park or Drive.
 
Are you sure that he didn't say that in some cars there's no fluid flow through the cooler in PARK? I believe that's true of at least some 80's Fords (mayb others). They didn't flow through the cooler circuit in Park ..but did in Neutral.

This I've heard from a respected rebuilder.
 
How does one "notice" the TC fluid condition without removing it?????

If there is ATF cooler flow in 'park' or 'neutral', then there is no need to shift it into drive while flushing.
As long as there is ATF cooler flow, the TC will be flushed. Problem is that it takes excessive ATF amounts to flush the TC completely. Are some shops cheating on the ATF flush by using the least amount of ATF possible?
 
I'm not sure where he got his info from, but as for the shops, most of the T-Tec shops around where I'm at flush with 15 quarts of ATF.

unDummy are you saying that by leaving it in Park it requires execessive ATF, or are you saying it requires excessive ATF regardless to flush the torque converter completely?
 
Excessive amounts of ATF are needed for a thorough flush.

To understand how the ATF flush works, fill a labelled cup(glass #2 the ATF sump) to the brim with koolaid(dirty ATF).
Now, add a cup of water(glass #1 flush machine clean ATF) slowly overflowing the Koolaid.
Still have a pretty colorful cup #2.
How many cups of #1 do you need to overflow #2 with, before there is no koolaid???
And, that #2 is a single sump. Your tranny has 2 or more(TC, ATF cooler, screw on filter, hoses... are sumps also).
So, add another cup in series (glass #3 torque converter) of koolaid to the above test. Anything that spills out of glass #2(sump) is what feeds/flushes glass#3(TC). Notice how the effluent from glass #2(water koolaid mix) does a lame job of flushing glass #3.

You get what you pay for. Discount flushes/shops will cut as many corners as possible. Not changing the filter, not cleaning the magnets, not starting with a pan removal/cleaning or sump draining, not rinsing the ATF cooler, and my favorite, not filling the flush machine fully, will all add to a incomplete low quality flush.

A typical ~15 quart flush is acceptable in small transmissions. And, its even more successful if you can drain/refill the pan/sump prior to starting the flush.

Too many rumours start with "someone told me".
 
It's funny. Just did my son's 1st Gen Neon. 7 quarts was all it took to see the change in color from brownish to new looking. I guess it could mix up in the converter ..but still with only new going in the pan .....

When we did my son's FS Bronco. We didn't drain the converter (although there is was a bolt that you could remove) ..and it took 6 quarts. I cannot see the volume of the convert being anywhere near 9-14 quarts.

The 904/909/999/32RH/30RH has a capacity of 17 PINTS. The standard pan appears to only hold 2 quarts. This I deduced by the fact that adding a 2 quart deeper pan ..it required 4 quarts to bring it up to full. This doesn't add up to anywhere near what some here are reporting for total trans volume.
 
Thanks for all the input, I flushed mine over a year ago, so I'm not set on doing this anytime soon, just wanted more input on this. I cranked the car up then shifted into Drive for about 30 seconds, shift into Neutral, then shut off the car and added about 1/2 quart, which came out.

unDummy, you are right on about the flushes and how people cut corners. However it is not limited to the Xpresslubes/Jiffy Lubes, the local Ford dealership, Allan Vigil Ford, service manager flat out told me "We rarely replace the transmission filters, a flush is all that is needed." At that point, I was ready to leave before the guy gave me anymore "genius" answers.
 
(from the "MR Ducks stuff)

LIB
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quote:

For the next portion of the procedure, make sure that the parking brake is set prior to continuing. Start the engine. The transmission needs to be put into "Drive" so the torque converter fluid is changed as well. Some transmissions will only circulate fluid through the torque converter only in drive. This especially applies to the electronically controlled transmissions. [Craig Sherman noted that Drive is needed for most transmissions, based on technical manuals]

http://www.allpar.com/eek/atf.html
 
The part I'm
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about is "Craig Sherman noted that Drive is needed for most transmissions, based on technical manuals". MY DC/Jeep FSM says otherwise ..but mine is a somewhat obsolete transmission by today's standards.

That "most" broad stroking paintbrush can be dangerous. This is the first I've ever heard of this. :srhug:
 
I've flushed several transmissions in Park and had good results. I prefer to drain and refill the pan first, then do the flush using the recommended total amount of fluid...14, 16 quarts, whatever. A small car may do fine with 12 quarts and a truck 20 quarts.


Ken
 
I had a 95 toyota camry 4a. Used it to push a car (~2600lbs) up a very steep hill. Car had about 60k miles and was on original tranny fluid. After which it had horrid symptoms of a dying tranny / torque convertor. I added two quarts to overfill it for a short run and it seemed to mildly mildly improve but symptoms were all still there and getting worse. For issues of time constraints and available places open on a Sunday, I took it to jiffy lube to do a fluid exchange. Drove out. Still exhibited all the problems. Checked the tranny oil. Just as bad as when I brought it in. So I brought it back and had them look at it. They were puzzled beyond belief that the fluid looked no different. So they did another exchange. Both times were in park and not drive. After the exchange, I noted that the fluid level was way high so they drained it down to normal. This time fluid is much more resembling or a red color. I go for a drive. Symptoms still there. Note this entire time I've been driving lightly because of the issues present. If I held it in first gear though it seemed fine, as it always did. But none of the other gears. Sounded like a torque convertor issue now that I think about it. I figure it's done for so that's when I started mashing on the gas all over the place and letting it slip and bang. After a minute of this, the tranny got significantly better. And after doing this for a good half hour, all problems were gone. The only reason I can think of is that the sumps and most importantly torque convertor were not exchanged so I had to go hard on it to get the fluid to even out with the cooked fluid. Now the camry drives same as it did before fluid got cooked.


Anyone have info on how easily camry i4's cook the tranny fluid??
 
Pushing a 2600 lb car up a hill will do it every time in something not designed to push or tow anywhere near that weight even on flat ground
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