Shell Rotella Synthetic 5w-40

[JHZR2]

My first oil analysis:
Shell Rotella Synthetic 5w-40 API SL/CH4
From my 1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (4.3L V6), put 3175 miles on it, over the course of 7 months. It states that there is Mo int he oil, Id have to bet that was because I had GTX in bbefore... no reason to think that this oil has Mo.

I had oil cooler lines replaced while this oil was in, and then replaced the filter in case of debris. Total make-up oil is probably 1 qt or a bit more than that.

Done by wear-check USA.
I am unaware of any coolant leak, the level has not ever dropped, but I did have a power flush done along with oil cooler lines while this oil was in. I am hoping that these two things are somehow related. I will keep a close watch on it...
Wear metals seem very low, so I am happy with the oil (now Ill try others though). What would happen if I was to have a chronic glycol/Na/K contamination in my oil? I am almost tempted to say that for the most part it didnt have any effect on the wear numbers, although the replacement of about a quart at ~2200 miles on the oil may have effected it a bit. Is that Sulfur number normal, or does it reflect perhaps the gasolines I have been using? Any comments on the ZDDP number?

Comments were as follows:
We advise that you check for the source of the coolant leak. Oil and filter change at the time of sampling has been noted. We recommend an early resample to monitor this condition. All component wear rates are normal. Sodium and/or potassium levels are high. Test for glycol is positive. The oil is no longer serviceable due to the presence of contaminants. - KeithS [4/22/2003 4:19:03 PM]


00494488
Sample No WC-M1046513
Sample Date 4/10/2003
Unit Age 34813m
Time on Fluid 3175m
Time on Filter 1000m
Fluid Maint. Changed
Filter Maint. Changed
Fluid XX015
Iron (Fe) 8.3
Chromium (Cr) 0.5
Nickel (Ni) 0.3
Titanium (Ti) 0.0
Silver (Ag) 0.2
Aluminum (Al) 2.4
Lead (Pb) 4.0
Copper (Cu) 3.2
Tin (Sn) 0.8
Silicon (Si) 12
Sodium (Na) 13
Potassium (K) 226
Boron (B) 2.4
Barium (Ba) 0.1
Molybdenum (Mo) 21
Magnesium (Mg) 48
Calcium (Ca) 2963
Phosphorus (P) 925
Zinc (Zn) 1059
Sulfur (S) 3943
Cadmium (Cd) 0.0
Manganese (Mn) 0.8
Vanadium (V) 0.0
Glycol 0.10
Soot(%) 0
Oxidation(PA) 35
Nitratrion(PA) 60
Sulfation(PA) 23
ZDDP -0.13
Kv@100°C 13.79
White Metal NONE
Babbitt NONE
Precipitate NONE
Silt NONE
Debris NONE
Dirt NONE
Appearance NORML
Odor NORML
H2O(Emul) NEG
H2O(Free) NEG

[ April 23, 2003, 01:43 PM: Message edited by: JHZR2 ]

 

[Drew99GT]

It seems that when the gasket problems start occuring on thses GMs, they do so at a very very small rate, and many a time any coolent that escapes is replaced with either air or oil, so the coolent level won't visibly drop but your still getting seepage into the oil. I'd honestly either get the gasket replaced now with an aftermarket brand (roll is a great brand) or just let it be if you plan on selling your truck any time soon. The gasket could blow at any time, just as what happend on my bro's truck. Now he has a remanufactured motor. If the gasket does blow and they replace it, you risk having bearing damage and possible bottom end failure AFTER you get the gasket replaced once it blows. It's a bummer I know, but life sucks and then ya die. Ya just gotta deal with it. You may even want to arm yourself with your oil analysis and

http://www.PetitionOnline.com/mod_perl/signed.cgi?GMcnsmrs&2301

and see what your dealer says. I've heard of a few instances where GM fixed the gasket out of warrent for people that put up a legit fight. Good luck!

 

[Al]

Really a good report. I have used the Rotella syn but have not taken an analysis. Its a group III so I am not comfortable with going extended. However it might be more that sat. for that. Glycol/antifreeze is very bad-Plugs filters, promotes sludge,oxidation and bearing wear

. I'm not sure how high this-but any is bad.

I don't have an answer on the sulfur or ZDDP- but the zinc/phos is up there so who cares. Viscosity is right in there and wear is really good.

 

[Cressida]

Would the contamination from glycol/antifreeze cause the nitration to go up in this analysis?

I'm not used to seeing Nitration up to 60 in only 3175 miles. What could be the cause of this?

 

[MolaKule]

I would have expected a higher level of ZDDP, say 1250 to 1350 ppm.

I would also have expected a higher Barium level, since this has been used to provide soot control in diesel engines.

Without a virgin sample, it is difficult to tell if the Potassium is from the coolant or an additive, since some additive packages contain Potassium Hydroxide to fight acids or increase the tbn base number. It is also a component in Potassium Borate, a detergent and AW additive.

If you do have a coolant leak, it is not affecting the wear rates for the soft metals, at least, not yet!

 

[Bror Jace]

Cressida, I think coolant could cause excessive nitration and/or oxidation. Maybe others can comment further. I know the oil discolors rather quickly … it did in my case.

JHZR2, Overall, I think that was a good report, with regard to the wear metals. It doesn’t belong in Bob’s Hall of Fame with an elite few … but not bad.

That oil is over $4 per quart, right? Seems a little pricey for a mediocre performing Group III psuedo-synthetic. I’d like to see someone push this stuff to 5,000/6,000 or even longer to see if it will hold up at all .. but with your possible coolant leak, I’d leave that experiment to someone else.

I’d give your car a 1,000 mile oil & filter change with an inexpensive dino to help flush out the traces of sodium or potassium (which may be adds like ’Kule says) then go something like 2,500-3,000 miles with your next intended brand of oil and re-test for traces of coolant.

If it’s a steady but slow leak, frequent changes will flush the contamination away before it does much damage. So, what I recommended above will work well for that reason as well.

In general, though, I don’t think you can put much faith in switching brands and testing each after 1 change. Different additives do funny things when they mix with each other and may not give you accurate results. Find a brand you want to stick with at least a year (or 3-4 changes) and test the 2nd or 3rd changes to get a real feel for how well it's holding up in your motor.

--- Bror Jace

 

[jason07-1zzfe]

I had MUCH better results in this motor with M1 SS 10w30. They are posted here.
But I would get a VOA or the engine tested to make sure you don't have a coolant leak.

 

[Jimbo]

This Group III oil is much less expensive than Mobil. At Wally's I've seen it for $13 a gallon.

The good news is oil analysis caught the coolant leak. The bad news is you have a coolant leak. Here is an example of the worth of oil analysis for those that say it is better to just spend the money on more frequent oil changes.

We can't really make a judgement on the oil itself based on analysis until the engine is repaired.

 

[satterfi]

I find it interesting that the wear metals are reported in 0.x increments. It suggests that their accuracy is at least 10X better than other labs.

 

[Patman]

quote:

---

Originally posted by satterfi:
I find it interesting that the wear metals are reported in 0.x increments. It suggests that their accuracy is at least 10X better than other labs.

---

Wearcheck Canada also gives me my UOAs in decimal increments for most of the wear metals. I definitely like that!

 

[Jay]

quote:

---

Originally posted by satterfi:
I find it interesting that the wear metals are reported in 0.x increments. It suggests that their accuracy is at least 10X better than other labs.

---

Yeah, I wondered about that too. Also they have confirmed that the odor and appearance are "Norml". Thank goodness for that! I wonder who at the lab has to sniff oil all day?

[ April 25, 2003, 03:52 PM: Message edited by: Jay ]

 

[Al]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Jimbo:
This Group III oil is much less expensive than Mobil. At Wally's I've seen it for $13 a gallon.

---

Its not been that price for over 6 moths. Price is about $22 now.

 

[Cressida]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Al:

quote:

---

Originally posted by Jimbo:
This Group III oil is much less expensive than Mobil. At Wally's I've seen it for $13 a gallon.

---

Its not been that price for over 6 moths. Price is about $22 now.

---

I just noticed last week that the price was back down to the $12.88/gal that it was a few months ago. There was this big sign on the shelf about "price rollback" implying to the unsuspecting customers that here is another example of how Wallyworld is lowering prices again. We all know better

Patman noted the same thing with his kid's diapers where they raise the price then lower it back down and announce the great price rollback. Good thing readers here at Bob's will not be fooled by such marketing gimicks by the folks at Wallyworld.

 

[MNgopher]

FYI - both the Wal-marts I saw today had it back at 12.88 a gallon.

 

[Ken4]

From the looks of the additive levels, Shell Rotella Syn looks like a completely different animal to the Shell Helix Ultra.

 

[sprintman]

Better or worse?

 

[Ken4]

If you see here, the Shell Helix Ultra has got much lower additive levels:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000613#000000

But if Ferrari uses it in their cars, it cant be all that bad.

 

[CJH]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Bror Jace:
Cressida,
That oil is over $4 per quart, right? Seems a little pricey for a mediocre performing Group III psuedo-synthetic. I’d like to see someone push this stuff to 5,000/6,000 or even longer to see if it will hold up at all ..

--- Bror Jace

---

Bror, I want to present a counterpoint regarding the value of Rotela T 5W40. As others on here have reported, it is $12 and change for 4 quarts at Wal*Mart, about $3/quart. I have a 1997 Chevrolet Lumina that had a significant consumption problem. I live in NW PA where it gets very cold in the winter, so I wanted to use a 5WX oil. I couldn't find any other 5W40 oil in this price range. GM says to use only XW30 oils in this car, but the Rotela 5W40 seems to be made for this car. Consumption is down and the engine runs and sounds great.

Regarding "pushing" this oil, I have about 4,500 miles on this change, and I plan to run it to consume the oil that was remaining in the container... Using the Rotela 5W40 has reduced my consumption from 850 miles / quart to 2,000 miles / quart, so I will probably end up draining the oil at about 7,000 - 7,500 miles (more or less) with 3 1/2 quarts of make up oil. I will be doing a UOA. From the past UOA though, I expect the results will be in line with the universal average, and people on here will be critical of the results.

People on here seem to be more interested in the absolute numbers than how it performs relative to the norms for a specific engine. This is unfortunate. The oil is only part of the equation, and it is easy for even a novice like me to see that specific engines have their own "signature" as far as UOA results.

AS far as the results from the S-10 that started this thread, for a GM car, this is a very good report. If you look at the GM UOAs on here, they are always high (relative to many other brands) on copper, iron and silicon. Of course, the coolant appears to be a problem but it cant be blamed on the oil


For my needs, I considere this oil to be a bargin. When I drain the Rotela, I am going to try Delvac 1, just as an experiment.

[ July 15, 2003, 09:09 AM: Message edited by: CJH ]