Shell 30w non detergent oil

[Rat407]

I found some 30w SB rated non detergent oil by Shell at Advance Auto the other day.

My pressure washer calls for it and I was wondering if it would be ok to use. I know I can order some schaeffers but I only need one qt and the pump only takes 8 onces, for as much as it gets used I really can't see paying more for shipping of just one quart than putting the Shell in it. Any comments?

 

[cryptokid]

its what i use in my pressure washer pump.

has been used for a while, and no problems so far.

 

[Bror Jace]

As I understand it, SA grade oils is pure oil and nothing else. SB grade oil will have no detergents but will have some barrier additves blended in (ZDDP?).

I have a quart of Schaeffer ND pump oil heading my way, should be at the house today or in the next couple of days. But if you are concerned about the choice of oil, just change it that much more frequently.

After all, you can get 4 changes from a single quart and it's a quick job. No reason NOT to change it at least as often as once per year even if you don't use the pump that often.

--- Bror Jace

 

[satterfi]

What's so awful about regular SL motor oil?

 

[Bror Jace]

satterfi, I'm not sure. It seems that this type of an application, along with something like an air compressor pump, specifically requires a NON DETERGENT oil.

You can check the "Industrial-Other" section for more discussion on this topic, there are at least three threads on air compressor oils.

After another week, I'm gonna request that the moderators move this topic in to that industrial sub-section ... and possibly re-title it so it will be more useful as an archive.

--- Bror Jace

 

[Bror Jace]

Changed the pump oil in our Coleman pressure washer today. I found a sheet saying that the pumps oil capacity is 4.7 ounces.

Well, I drained maybe 2 ounces of used oil out of the pump ... and it had more metal in it than I have ever seen in a used oil sample. Looked like a purple-grey metallic syrup.

So, I'd definitely say it's broken in.

I added about 5 ounces of Schaeffer #112HTC oil. I'll probably leave this in for a year or so and then change it again to get rid of the residual metal that's sure to still be in there.

I bought a quart of this oil and have enough left for at least 5 more changes.

--- Bror Jace

 

[satterfi]

Bror

The oil in my Coleman pump was pretty bad too. I bought a quart of cheap SA oil and flushed it out with that. It took about 3-4 fill/drain cycles with running the pump a couple of minutes inbetween to get the 'break in' contamination out.

 

[Bror Jace]

I probably should have done that.

As it is, I'll wait until the washer is used again for at least an hour and change the oil again then. Don't want to get TOO anal about this.

--- Bror Jace

 

[BOBISTHEOILGUY]

Put a little neutra in to help it, then run it as planned and drain after wards.

 

[Bror Jace]

Yeah, next pump oil change might be preceded by a half-ounce of Neutra ... hmmm, not a bad idea.

Oh, and I probably should confess that this pump was run for the first year with its (non-vented) "travel" plug in place as opposed to the vented plug. I found that only recently, sorta hidden amongst a few hoses for adding soap, etc ...

The documentation which came with this unit was pretty crappy and I didn't see the warning until the next season.

--- Bror Jace

 

[satterfi]

Here’s some comments from various web sites regarding the use of non-detergent oil in pumps

*Accepted general theory is to use a non-detergent oil to prevent foaming

*Detergent and dispersant additives can facilitate aeration of an oil which results in foaming. Non detergent oil is sometimes identified as "Pump Oil".

*Pumps use a 30-weight non-detergent pump oil. The use of motor oil will result in the oil becoming milky white in color.

*Non-detergent oil resists the formation of oil-water emulsions.

This could be why many racing oils and hydraulic oils have little or no detergents.