Shaking steering wheel after brake job.

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I replaced the front pads and had the rotors turned last weekend. I told the gents that they may be warped because of the driver side caliper recently locking up, which was replaced in April, as well as the passenger side having a tendency to stick unevenly. He said it might not be possible with their old machine, but they'd give it a try. They were able to get them turned and guaranteed them to be true.

Ever since then, I have a shimmy/ shake in the steering wheel at about 50 mph. It goes away at about 55 mph and above. I thought the passenger side caliper was the culprit so I replaced it with no luck. It had needed replaced anyways so it wasn't a complete waste.. The $20 to turn the rotors might have been though.

Are the rotors the issue? They are the only thing that has changed since this has happened.
 
If their old machine had a bent shaft, your disc will be worse than before. Are you positive the discs and wheels are fully seated?
 
I'm not a fan of turning rotors anymore, make sure the hub/hat where the wheel makes contact is clean of rust
 
Originally Posted By: asand1
If their old machine had a bent shaft, your disc will be worse than before. Are you positive the discs and wheels are fully seated?


They were torqued to 80 ft lbs then re torqued this morning.
 
Originally Posted By: beast3300
Is the shaking during braking or when speed is maintained?


Both actually.
 
Not sure how your setup is, but if it is a hat to hub, make sure everything is clean, and also be sure the back of the wheel (where is contacts the hub) is clean (free of any rust, burrs, gunk). Torque the wheels in small increments evenly. If that doesn't work, it may be the rotors, but typically warped rotors will only shake when the brakes are applied.
 
Shaking while at speed would generally be a wheel balance issue. Perhaps you knocked off a weight or something during the job.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: beast3300
Is the shaking during braking or when speed is maintained?


Both actually.


Throw the rotors away. Install new and re-drive.
 
As cheap as rotors are anymore, I refuse to have them turned.

Pull the old ones off, take the new ones out of the box, clean 'em up, slap them on, and keep going.
 
Try switching wheels on one side front to back then drive. Same thing on the other side to see if problem goes away with either side switched.
 
Originally Posted By: wymi516
Try switching wheels on one side front to back then drive. Same thing on the other side to see if problem goes away with either side switched.


Good idea. This will be a cheap method to see if its the wheels or not.
 
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