Self-Oil Change Virgin - Eager to Learn

[Garak]

There is plenty of good advice in this thread. Synthetic is fine if you want to extend OCIs. Conventional will work fine, too. I'd pick any decent name brand filter and go with it, too.

Also, check the manual for the oil change reminder reset procedure. For that vehicle, it should be: engine off, key to on, floor and release the accelerator three times in under 5 seconds or so, and the light will flash, indicating a reset.

 

[fdcg27]

First, ignore the naysayers.
You can pick up the oil of your choice cheaply on sale and you can also build a small stash of filters using AAP discount codes combined with special pricing and sometimes MIRs.
If you glance through the Product rebates...etc forum now and then, you'll catch the deals and you can always build a small (or large) stash of oil bought cheaply on closeout or with MIR.
It's also quicker to spend twenty minutes in your own driveway or garage doing an oil change than it is to drive it somewhere and wait.
I'd take a look at what you're going to have to get to and whether you'll have to raise the vehicle before doing your first change.
You can probably do the Suburban without raising it, but maybe not the Rogue.
If you need to raise a vehicle to change its oil, Rhino Ramps are well worth it, especially if bought with an AAP coupon code.
Buy the highest weight rating available.
The oil filters and drain plugs will probably be very tight. This is always easy to do when the car is up on a rack. You can save some trouble by having a cheater handy for the drain plug removal and a decent filter wrench for a spin on. A strap wrench works well for 95% of the filter installations out there.
With as much driving as your wife will be doing, I'd probably use whatever you can get cheaply out of M1, Synpower, PP, Ultra or QSUD.
If the Rogue is new enough, you can register it on both the Pennzoil and Quaker State sites and get $20.00 MIRs from each for PP and QSUD repectively. Run a decent synthetic and go as long as Nissan will allow under warranty.
The type of driving she'll be doing is very easy on the car in every way.

 

[raytseng]

Here are my tips for the journeyman mechanic

1) Find the forum and video specific to your vehicle so you can review exact DIY instructions and see where everything is. If possible grab someone who knows how to change oil, and have him/(or her) supervise you the first time through.

2) Use work clothes: old shirt/pants that you intend to get ruined by oil

3) Obtain/wear gloves. Latex gloves will melt in oil; you should look for Nitrile exam gloves. Used oil is considered hazardous waste and carcinogenic. At a minimum, consider putting lotion on your skin prior to the job. Grab a tube/bottle of the autotech hand soap/cleaner. Don't go with the old fashioned cleanup using gasoline or wd-40

4) Purchase roll of shop towels. You will make a mess the first time.

5) In choosing a catchpan, choose one with that is sealable so you can take the whole thing back for recycling the oil. Often times at the parts store will have DIY oilchange bundle with funnel/catchpan/towel.
A second metal pan such as a disposable aluminum roasting pan, is useful to keep things organized and not messy.

6) Your decision of premium syn oil depends on how often you choose to change the oil. Spending $5-$10 more for premium oil that you're going to change in a year when your total automotive fuel costs alone are in the $1000s is worth it. Be sure to buy oil only when on sale. Buying oil from the autoparts store when on sale will be cheaper than amazon, this is a loss leader for parts stores.

 

[yonyon]

Wear long sleeves when doing the Suburban for the first time. If you brush your arm against hot exhaust parts it's best not to do it with bare skin.

 

[901Memphis]

Don't change it hot if the exhaust is in the way of the filter. You shouldn't need ramps on a suburban since it's so high.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: raytseng
4) Purchase roll of shop towels. You will make a mess the first time.

Or, if you're me, purchase a commercial dispenser and case of the shop towels since you'll make a mess even after doing it a thousand times.

 

[thr_wedge]

Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: raytseng
4) Purchase roll of shop towels. You will make a mess the first time.

Or, if you're me, purchase a commercial dispenser and case of the shop towels since you'll make a mess even after doing it a thousand times.

QFT

 

[bubbatime]

Originally Posted By: itguy08
Originally Posted By: Cavball9

The reason I'm wanting to do it myself is because my wife is going to be putting on about 3,000 miles / month starting in December. I'm going to be changing hers, so I figured I'd change mine while I'm at it. Figured I'd be able to save a little bit here & there and control what's going in our vehicles.


I get what you are saying but at $20-40 for a change, you really are not going to be saving much if anything. Especially when you factor in your time and energy to deal with the oil. The dealership could do it for free and I would still do it for the satisfaction of knowing it was done right.

Here's some quick #'s from Wal-Mart. Assume a 6qt change (IIRC that's the average):

5 qt jug Pennzoil High Mileage 5w30: $17.27
1 qt Pennzoil HM 5w30: $4.47
1 Oil Filter - Purolator Classic: $3.27
Total: $25.01

If I could get an oil change for $25-30 I'd not bother doing it myself. And for my car, that's what I do. Drop it off at the dealer, they take me to work, they pick me up. They rotate the tires, check and fill the fluids, and it's $39. Works for me.

I may be biased as I hate dealing with oil and antifreeze. I'd rather do brakes, rebuild an engine than deal with oil and antifreeze!

Definitely run the #'s and see which way works out best - also remember if you are doing that much driving (3k/month) you most likely are not the severe service intervals as that involves a lot of highway driving. So you can stretch it to the long interval in the service manual. That will save some $$ and be fine for that vehicle.


Oh, I'm sorry, it looks like you somehow are on the wrong forum. The "pedicure and manicure" section of the internet are located elsewhere. Go enjoy your free dealership coffee or latte while enjoying the air conditioning. I'll be out with the real men in the garage, doing man stuff, making sure the job is done right the first time by someone that cares. This website is geared towards do it yourself, not hey drive to the dealership and they will change it for you.

 

[Garak]

He he, I wouldn't be that harsh, but you do have a point. The starting point to learning a little bit about one's vehicle is to get underneath it and change oil, along with doing some reading. If one doesn't have the skill set to even change oil, it opens oneself to being hosed royally at the dealer when something does go wrong.

If one gets comfortable doing an oil change, it's not a big stretch to doing air filters and a few other things, vehicle dependent of course. The oil change on the vehicle in question isn't terribly complex, and there's never any guarantee that anyone gets an oil change right. If one does it oneself, it's clear where the blame or credit lies, as the case may be.

 

[y_p_w]

Originally Posted By: Garak
He he, I wouldn't be that harsh, but you do have a point. The starting point to learning a little bit about one's vehicle is to get underneath it and change oil, along with doing some reading. If one doesn't have the skill set to even change oil, it opens oneself to being hosed royally at the dealer when something does go wrong.

If one gets comfortable doing an oil change, it's not a big stretch to doing air filters and a few other things, vehicle dependent of course. The oil change on the vehicle in question isn't terribly complex, and there's never any guarantee that anyone gets an oil change right. If one does it oneself, it's clear where the blame or credit lies, as the case may be.

Most air filters are easier to change than oil. However, as with anything there are always tricks. My WRX air box is pretty simple, but it's got this fitting at the far end that just won't shut if I place the filter in first. So I close it without the filter, and then wedge the filter in. I don't even need any tools. I remember other air filters where maybe a #2 Phillips screwdriver does the trick or maybe an 8 mm socket. Honda has screws that take either. Now the easiest I remember were those round filters with a cover held down with a wing nut. I remember those as late as 1990 - even with a fuel-injected car.

It was mentioned that anyone changing oil should look for tips on how to do something. I'd probably recommend the same for oil and filter changes.

 

[Garak]

Read my mention of the air filter on my Audi 200 in the worst air filter to change thread. Yes, usually they are much easier to change (i.e. the G is a snap, the F-150 is easy, as were the cabs, my Town Car, my LTD, and so forth). For the Audi 200, it was around a two hour job. You did need a screwdriver and/or nut driver, but not for the filter box itself; it had snaps. It was just all the turbo plumbing, headlight, and everything else you had to remove to get even close to the box.

 

[itguy08]

Originally Posted By: bubbatime

Oh, I'm sorry, it looks like you somehow are on the wrong forum. The "pedicure and manicure" section of the internet are located elsewhere. Go enjoy your free dealership coffee or latte while enjoying the air conditioning. I'll be out with the real men in the garage, doing man stuff, making sure the job is done right the first time by someone that cares. This website is geared towards do it yourself, not hey drive to the dealership and they will change it for you.


Hey [edit], you know nothing about me and definitely not a "pedicure and manicure" type of person. Never had one and never will.

I also have no problem getting dirty - do all my own landscaping, home repairs, and the majority of car repairs. No issues doing brakes, engine work, etc but hate dealing with oil and antifreeze. It's nothing to do with "not being manly" or whatever [edit] you are saying.

And if the dealer is willing to charge me $39 for an oil change + tire rotation with every 5th one free, drive me to/from work, and even wash my car that's fine with me. I could care less if the guy doing it cares as long as it's done and done correctly. If not, I know what neck to wring. I'll take back my time for other "manly" things like working on other things the car or house needs.

 

[Cavball9]

Thanks for all the tips & pointers. Looking forward to starting this little project.

 

[davebarnum]

Originally Posted By: itguy08

And if the dealer is willing to charge me $39 for an oil change + tire rotation with every 5th one free, drive me to/from work, and even wash my car that's fine with me. I could care less if the guy doing it cares as long as it's done and done correctly. If not, I know what neck to wring. I'll take back my time for other "manly" things like working on other things the car or house needs.


http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=I could care less

I've been saying it wrong for years, so not to be a butthole, but I'm just pointing out that it's supposed to be "I couldn't care less..." If you could, you would.

 

[mobilaltima]

Being a GM vehicle, it will 99.9% most likely have a 15mm drain plug, get either a six point wrench or 3/8 dr. ratchet and six point socket. being an '05, im assuming you have the 5.3 vortec, the plug is right in back of the pan as opposed to the right side on newer models, and the '05 model will most likely take a napa gold 1042 oil filter. dont go super tight on the plug, and i usually put an oil filter real good and tight with my hand, no need to tighten with a filter wrench. 6 quarts of Valvoline Maxlife 10W30 amd the napa gold and follow the oil life monitor.

 

[Cavball9]

Originally Posted By: mobilaltima
Being a GM vehicle, it will 99.9% most likely have a 15mm drain plug, get either a six point wrench or 3/8 dr. ratchet and six point socket. being an '05, im assuming you have the 5.3 vortec, the plug is right in back of the pan as opposed to the right side on newer models, and the '05 model will most likely take a napa gold 1042 oil filter. dont go super tight on the plug, and i usually put an oil filter real good and tight with my hand, no need to tighten with a filter wrench. 6 quarts of Valvoline Maxlife 10W30 amd the napa gold and follow the oil life monitor.


That's a serious dose of information. Much appreciated, sir.

 

[mobilaltima]

Originally Posted By: Cavball9
Originally Posted By: mobilaltima
Being a GM vehicle, it will 99.9% most likely have a 15mm drain plug, get either a six point wrench or 3/8 dr. ratchet and six point socket. being an '05, im assuming you have the 5.3 vortec, the plug is right in back of the pan as opposed to the right side on newer models, and the '05 model will most likely take a napa gold 1042 oil filter. dont go super tight on the plug, and i usually put an oil filter real good and tight with my hand, no need to tighten with a filter wrench. 6 quarts of Valvoline Maxlife 10W30 amd the napa gold and follow the oil life monitor.


That's a serious dose of information. Much appreciated, sir.



no problem. I do tend to go into detail as to help out the OP, whoever they may be, as much as possible.

 

[mobilaltima]

just noticed that you have a 2500 suburban. so no 5.3. do you have the 6.0 or 8.1 vortec?

 

[fdcg27]

Cav,
Where in OH do you live?
By your user name, I'm guessing up north.
We're in the southwestern part of the state.
I you're near me or if you're near Columbus, where I'll be going two days next week, I'd be willing to walk you through the first change.
I even have a 15 mm socket I've used exactly once, changing the oil on a friend's Poncho.
An oddball size that I've never used on any other car for any fastener.