seized brake caliper symptoms?

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Nov 29, 2009
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when the brake rotor is worn 50 percent more on one side than the other side is that a indicator that the caliper is hanging up? The other side was okay, was going to have a friend change the pads this morning, but he slept in so I ran over to small mom and pop shop someone recommended with a rotor pads and caliper if it was needed just to have all the parts on hand. The mechanic ended up replacing the caliper and I kind of wonder if he just replaced it since I had it already. If the caliper was fine I was just going to return it. I felt bad for my buddy, but I had to get this fixed asap since I was metal on metal. lol Other than a torn boot on one of the pistons it looked fine to me.
 
unless the pistons are opposed, a stuck piston affects both sides of the brake discs. More likely either a pad was stuck causing excessive wear, or no wear. or the slider pins were stuck....
 
Other than a torn boot on one of the pistons
I think there's your answer.

Otherwise, and this isn't a criticism of mechanics, if you tell them "replace the caliper, pads, and rotors", many will do as instructed. Some might get into the job and determine that the slider pins and/or pin bore just needed cleaned up properly, only replace the pads and rotors, then test it. If it's all good, they saved you money.
 
What does it mean when they squeak when you press the brakes? My front brakes started squeaking shortly after they were installed and never stopped.
 
What does it mean when they squeak when you press the brakes? My front brakes started squeaking shortly after they were installed and never stopped.
It "usually" means either they did an incomplete job cleaning (rust) and lubing, or the pads are junk with no backing shim and needed goop put on to stop that.

If they start doing it shortly after installed, you should go back to the shop that did the work immediately unless the problem is that you provided cheap junk pads, and even then, they should have recognized that low end pads should have Antisquealgoop™ put on.

It brings up the issue of whether you were lucky, or unlucky to find a shop that lets you bring in your own parts, instead of their insistence on providing parts at a markup, but that they are familiar with and to reduce comebacks which nobody likes.
 
you should go back to the shop that did the work immediately unless the problem is that you provided cheap junk pads
Odds are they will charge him for any labor (as they should) since it's not their parts. Then, they may "determine" that the pads are faulty or defective and offer to do the job again, using parts they buy. The OP has very little say in the matter with the shop at this point... ;)
 
For rear calipers that use the calipers for the parking brake, one sign is the parking brake not working properly. This is usually caused by not regularly using the parking brake.

If you live where you have to deal with rust, the caliper was worth replacing anyway
 
For rear calipers that use the calipers for the parking brake, one sign is the parking brake not working properly. This is usually caused by not regularly using the parking brake.

If you live where you have to deal with rust, the caliper was worth replacing anyway

No this truck has both a caliper and a drum brake for the parking brake.
 
Odds are they will charge him for any labor (as they should) since it's not their parts. Then, they may "determine" that the pads are faulty or defective and offer to do the job again, using parts they buy. The OP has very little say in the matter with the shop at this point... ;)

Just to clarify the front brakes were done about a year ago and started squeaking maybe 2000 miles afterwards. The rear brakes I just had done yesterday are not making any noise yet. That may be why the rear brakes got so bad too because the squeaky front brakes disguised any noise the rear brakes were making.
 
If you’re getting a pull to one side during braking and one wheel feels hotter than the others, you can have a stuck caliper.

also, on the subject of brake noise, Japanese pads using multi-part shims(usually a rubber coated inner and bare outer) can “drift” out of position and squeal. If the shims are new enough, bending down the tangs on each shim and using the right brake grease between the outer/inner shims and backing plate helps.
 
One wheel was definitely warmer, but then again i was down to the metal so I would think that would make things a bit more toasty. My squeaky front brakes disguised any noise the rear ones were making.
 
Odds are they will charge him for any labor (as they should) since it's not their parts. Then, they may "determine" that the pads are faulty or defective and offer to do the job again, using parts they buy. The OP has very little say in the matter with the shop at this point... ;)
Depends on the honesty of the shop and what actually went wrong.

It could be that they didn't clean rust off the rails or lube the slide pins and if they own up to it, should fix that without further charge, IF it had been immediate squeaking but a further post by the OP indicates that is not what happened.

If you don't trust the shop, then don't take it back to them either way.
 
Are the rotors supposed to be turned every time you change pads. Everyone has a different opinion on this. Some don't think you should because then the rotors lose thickness and warp easier. I kind of think my new pads glazed over. In the beginning the truck would stop a train, then after a while you had to press a lot harder on the pedal.
 
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