Securing rubber hose to metal tubing?

Messages
22
Location
Kentucky
I'd like to add a transmission cooler to my newest vehicle purchase. I have one of those Hayden coolers and some rubber hose. I'm thinking I can cut the aluminum return line that leads back to the transmission and install the cooler here. I'm concerned with the rubber hose slipping off of the metal tubing though. Would hose clamps be enough? The tubing isn't flared or barbed. I figured I could take some sandpaper and scuff it really good, clean it with brake cleaner, and put two small hose clamps on each connection? Or should I try something different?
 

ls1mike

$50 Site Donor 2021
Messages
6,593
Location
In the Garage...
Buy a cheap flare tool. They are cheap and it is easy. When I install an aux cooler like that I always flare them. Takes 5 minutes then you don't have to worry. My first motor home had an aux cooler, previous owner did not flare the lines and I had one blow of. Luckily it happened at startup. A cheapo one like this works fine. [Linked Image]
 
Messages
1,366
Location
Warner Robins, GA
Originally Posted by ls1mike
Buy a cheap flare tool. They are cheap and it is easy. When I install an aux cooler like that I always flare them. Takes 5 minutes then you don't have to worry. My first motor home had an aux cooler, previous owner did not flare the lines and I had one blow of. Luckily it happened at startup. A cheapo one like this works fine. [Linked Image]
This is what I was going to say. I had a radiator installed and for whatever reason they hadn't flared the cooler return line and it leaked, even with multiple mega tight clamps on it until I took the time to flare it then reinstall the hose. No more issues after that.
 
Messages
1,627
Location
VA
A cleaner way to do it (vs. cutting lines) would be to find a barbed fitting for your radiator outlet. Then remove the return line from the radiator, install the fitting, and clamp one hose to the fitting and the other to the return line. Most coolers I've installed had fittings in the kit.
 

CT8

Messages
15,399
Location
Idaho
Originally Posted by Chris142
We glue the hose on with Gasket cinch and add 2 hose clamps. Once it dries that hose will have to be cut off to be removed,.
This.
 
Messages
4,844
Location
Northern Ohio
Originally Posted by joshuawesl
I'd like to add a transmission cooler to my newest vehicle purchase. I have one of those Hayden coolers and some rubber hose. I'm thinking I can cut the aluminum return line that leads back to the transmission and install the cooler here. I'm concerned with the rubber hose slipping off of the metal tubing though. Would hose clamps be enough? The tubing isn't flared or barbed. I figured I could take some sandpaper and scuff it really good, clean it with brake cleaner, and put two small hose clamps on each connection? Or should I try something different?
Metal tubing has to be flared to keep it leak free and from coming loose. Bubble flare is best as a single or double flare such as a brake line can cut into the hose when you tighten the clamp.
 
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Messages
59
Location
USA
Rent "Flare Tool" at auto parts such as AutoZone or Oreily's for free as long you return it in a day or 2
 
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Messages
1,627
Location
VA
Originally Posted by joshuawesl
Originally Posted by Rhymingmechanic
Here's a kit to do what I'm talking about. Click on the customer image. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Derale/D13030.html
Wow. That is cool! I think that's the route I'll go. No cutting, just adapt and install. Thanks so much for the idea!
I was surprised to see the one with two fittings, but it makes sense. The coolers I have installed had a fitting for the radiator and then I just clamped the other end to the factory line. The flare on those lines probably wasn't ideal for a hose connection. The good thing about this installation is you can easily revert to stock if you need to.
 
Messages
706
Location
UK
Hold on i thought on pipes like these you need a pipe beader to get a bead formed to secure hoses. The links above show brake pipe flaring tools that add a flare to the end of the pipe. Will a flare work like a bead?
 
Messages
4,423
Location
Guilford, CT
I recommend using actual hose barb fittings. You can buy tube nuts (the same kind of fitting that goes on the end of a brake line), but in 5/16" or 3/8", whichever size your vehicle uses. Cut the metal line, slide the nut on, and double flare the end, just like a brake line. Then get a hose barb fitting that threads onto the tube nut. You'll need a barb fitting that has "tube thread;" pipe thread is different and won't work. This is how I repaired the rusted lines on my Bronco. See my pics: [Linked Image from i203.photobucket.com] [Linked Image from i203.photobucket.com]
 
Messages
2,413
Location
Lakeside CA
I did this exact job about 23 years ago, and when I sold that vehicle 5 years ago it hadn't leaked a drop or came off in 18 years. My trans lines were steel though, YMMV. After cutting my steel lines I used a brass ferrule of the same size from a compression fitting and slid it over the steel line and used Locktite retaining compound to lock it in place. Then I slid my hoses over the ferrule and single hose clamp on the other side. Never came loose or leaked. If you use this method with aluminum, check the Locktite specs, you may have to use the primer.
 
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