Searching for an oil to use with my new build.

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Thank you for you additional info Pat. I'm definitely all ears as I don't want to rebuild my motor again. I seem to enjoy building other's motor rather than mine....
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Can anyone recommend a good oil cooler thermostat? I'm looking for an accurate and high-flowing thermostat. I would preferably like one that is sandwhiched between the block and the filter, unless someon can convince me otherwise. 180* F seems good enough for me. If the car runs too cool on the street, I can cover the radiator/cooler.

It's great information thus far guys and I think I can speak for Pat and say we both appreciate all the help!
 
I have been a SHO owner since 1992 and always read all I can about the car , I can not remember the artice but it says SHO's do not like syn oil , in the article it said "I have 4 SHO Engines in my shop now all with spun bearings all using syn oil" probally a coincidence but thats what it said.
 
Your engine is overheating. At high speeds water alone is OK for the coolant. It just should not get that hot and has better heat capacity than when mixed with coolant. Next you need to maximize oil flow, whatever that takes. Thinner is generally better for this concern. An oil cooler may be needed.

The main problem however is a lack of cooling via the regular radiator. The amount of air moving through at high speeds generally keeps the water below 220 F in racing applications. The Ferrari Enzo states that you should slow down as there must be a problem if the water gets over 240 F.

aehaas
 
The SHO doesn't use some magical metals that is not compatible with sythetic oil. That's not even a concern at this point.

The problem we're seeing is HOT temperatures under TRACK driving conditions. In addition, I was seeing restricted oil pressure due to the fact I had a remote/bypass kit with small lines. As Pat has mentioned, our rod bearing failures seem to be related to hot temperatures and low oil pressure.

FWIW, my roommate has spun a rod bearing 2 times (actually 3 times because he just cleaned up the journal and slapped in new bearings after the first one) and he uses the ever-popular Castrol GTX. Many will swear by that in the SHO community.

Most SHO owners are not driving the cars as hard as we do, nor putting extra stress and buidling more heat from added power. Not to mention the 30% ,or so, less cooling efficiency we have at altitude.

I believe the 4 spun bearings can be accounted to ME..... Mechanic's Error
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Your problem is that you aren't getting enough air through the engine compartment. I'm an old engine builder/racer and I've seen this problem. You need to take a good look at the air flow through the engine compartment. Where it goes in, where it comes out. You might consider adding an air dam under the front of the car. You want to put it where it will force air up in front of the rad, this will also help to remove hot engine compartment air by creating a low pressure area under/behind the engine. Should be simple to dummy something up for testing.

BTW: Great pics. Looks like a real fun machine.

Good luck,
Wayne
 
quote:

Originally posted by yamahaSHO:
I was running 9 quarts of Mobil 1 10w-30. [/QB]

If this is not a typo that is your problem. 9qts. in a stock pan road racing is going to airate the oil and cause problems, as you found out.
 
quote:

Originally posted by RandyBarnett:

quote:

Originally posted by yamahaSHO:
I was running 9 quarts of Mobil 1 10w-30.

If this is not a typo that is your problem. 9qts. in a stock pan road racing is going to airate the oil and cause problems, as you found out.


That's not the problem. That somewhat insults my intelligence, I'm not that much of a moron.

Stock pan and FL-1A filter hold 6 quarts. I was running a dual filter system (remote/bypass) with 5ft of lines as well as a 2 quart Accusump with another couple ft of lines. I didn't say it was all in the pan.
 
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