Yep, that's what I'd do. Get rid of the remote bypass and install a minimum of -10 lines (or equivalent) to a high flow cooler and oil thermostat. RedLine 10w30 is a good starting point.
[ February 15, 2006, 07:36 PM: Message edited by: 427Z06 ]
Searching for an oil to use with my new build.
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[ February 15, 2006, 07:36 PM: Message edited by: 427Z06 ]
That's not a bearing, that is the rod itself. The bearing spun between that and the crank. The picture is of the damage caused to the rod.
The bearings shown in the first picture is from that said rod.
The bearings shown in the first picture is from that said rod.
For one I would get rid of that bypass system and just run a high quality filter on the block is all you need. Your oil volume going into the engine will increase when you really need it.
The bypass systems inmy oppinon are made more for deseil applictations and have no business being on a motor that sees high RPM.
See also if morroso makes a deep pan for that car for added oil capasity.
I would also look into running a good oil cooler and would run redline 10/30 both street and track as long as you are running a cooler that oil will be fine. And is the only 10/30 synthetic I would run in a race aplication. Since you run in a cold weather climate you want to stay away from the thicker oils.
The bypass systems inmy oppinon are made more for deseil applictations and have no business being on a motor that sees high RPM.
See also if morroso makes a deep pan for that car for added oil capasity.
I would also look into running a good oil cooler and would run redline 10/30 both street and track as long as you are running a cooler that oil will be fine. And is the only 10/30 synthetic I would run in a race aplication. Since you run in a cold weather climate you want to stay away from the thicker oils.
For one I would get rid of that bypass system and just run a high quality filter on the block is all you need. Your oil volume going into the engine will increase when you really need it.
The bypass systems inmy oppinon are made more for deseil applictations and have no business being on a motor that sees high RPM.
See also if morroso makes a deep pan for that car for added oil capasity.
I would also look into running a good oil cooler and would run redline 10/30 both street and track as long as you are running a cooler that oil will be fine. And is the only 10/30 synthetic I would run in a race aplication. Since you run in a cold weather climate you want to stay away from the thicker oils.
I've already decided on the cooler. I'm going to go with a Fluidyne Therm-HX unit. The weather here is not always 'cold', even in winter. Aside from that, it only gets driven in nice days. The aftermarket on this car is pretty limited. There are no aftermarket pans for the SHO, there simply is no room to fit anything larger. With a FL-1A (Mustang 5.0) Filter, the system holds 6 quarts of oil, before adding anything to it. Addition of the cooler and lines, the system will hold another 1.5 - 2 quarts of oil. The bypass systme is coming off for sure. I'll get the lost pressure back as well and a place to mount some catch cans I haven't had room for.
out of curiosity what kind and weight of oil where you using when the engine died?
I was running 9 quarts of Mobil 1 10w-30.
The bypass systems inmy oppinon are made more for deseil applictations and have no business being on a motor that sees high RPM.
See also if morroso makes a deep pan for that car for added oil capasity.
I would also look into running a good oil cooler and would run redline 10/30 both street and track as long as you are running a cooler that oil will be fine. And is the only 10/30 synthetic I would run in a race aplication. Since you run in a cold weather climate you want to stay away from the thicker oils.
I've already decided on the cooler. I'm going to go with a Fluidyne Therm-HX unit. The weather here is not always 'cold', even in winter. Aside from that, it only gets driven in nice days. The aftermarket on this car is pretty limited. There are no aftermarket pans for the SHO, there simply is no room to fit anything larger. With a FL-1A (Mustang 5.0) Filter, the system holds 6 quarts of oil, before adding anything to it. Addition of the cooler and lines, the system will hold another 1.5 - 2 quarts of oil. The bypass systme is coming off for sure. I'll get the lost pressure back as well and a place to mount some catch cans I haven't had room for.
out of curiosity what kind and weight of oil where you using when the engine died?
I was running 9 quarts of Mobil 1 10w-30.
How cold?
I ask because even 50w racing oils go down enough to warrent oil pressure around 32F. If it gets colder then that ya I stay around a 10w.
I here nothing but good things about Redline for racing apps. I would just never use it on a street car unless you can deal with the cost.
I ask because even 50w racing oils go down enough to warrent oil pressure around 32F. If it gets colder then that ya I stay around a 10w.
I here nothing but good things about Redline for racing apps. I would just never use it on a street car unless you can deal with the cost.
It's been getting into the 40's and 50's here. This week will be cold and snowy, but you don't drive a 500+hp FWD car with DD clutch in the snow anyway. In the summer time, we'll get up into the upper 90's to low 100's.
I'm not sure how much more track time the car will see, but I do drive it hard.
You can see the crap I put the car through here .
[ February 15, 2006, 09:41 PM: Message edited by: yamahaSHO ]
I'm not sure how much more track time the car will see, but I do drive it hard.
You can see the crap I put the car through here .
[ February 15, 2006, 09:41 PM: Message edited by: yamahaSHO ]
Ahh Denver I see. Ya you might want to stick with a 10w just incase winter sneaks up on you. Unless you always have access to an outlet to run a oil pan heater.
Redline is great and if you don't want that I use German Castrol 0w30(high 30 almost 40) and have had great luck with it.
Redline is great and if you don't want that I use German Castrol 0w30(high 30 almost 40) and have had great luck with it.
Hmmm... I didn't realize it would be an $80 oil change for me to use Red Line. Maybe I'll go for something else.
I figured 10w-30 would be a great all around oil, especially with an oil cooler.
I figured 10w-30 would be a great all around oil, especially with an oil cooler.
Redline 10W40 and get rid of the Amsoil remote bypass filter setup. You might look at Meca Canton and System-1 filter systems. I would use a simple high flow robust full flow filter if this is not a track only car like a K&N oil filter!
Cost effective would be Syn Rotella 5w-40 a very robust oil... Under $4 a quart at walmart
I've got a Taurus SHO that I'm currently building a motor for. The motor will be completely rebuilt, aside from the valve just be reseated. I've got new Wiseco pistons and I'm using the stock bottom end.
Anyway, this car recently spun a rod bearing (hence the rebuild) due to some track use, and what I attribute to HOT OIL. When I spun the bearing, I was open tracking the car and the only thing that would stop my runs would be the water temp was climbing to 240F or so. At that point, I would do a cool-down lap or two to bring the engine temp down, as well as the brakes. When I spun the bearing, I knew the car was running warm, but I had two cars in my sights and wanted to pass them before calling it a day. When I let off for my cool-down lap, I turned down the heater to hear that I had spun the #5 bearing.
I did not have an oil temp gauge, but I have seen the relationship between water/oil tem on two other SHO's that see track use. The most notable is on the 'track' SHO. The water temp on that car sits around 200 - 210 degrees, but the oil will reach up to 260 before we shut down for a cool-down. This car has also spun a rod bearing, but has since had the motor rebuilt.
As for my car... It is generally a street car, but gets driven pretty hard on the street, and an occasional canyon cruise (which can be near track conditions for me). I do drive it normally most of the time on the street, but I occasionally take it up to 8,000 RPM just to feel the power. The car was only tracked once and made it through a complete day of track before spinning the bearing. On track, I was taking the motor up to 7,000 RPM regularly and probably never made it under 4k or 5k RPM.
I have been running Mobil 1 10w-30 with a 2-quart Accusump, and an AMSOIL remote/bypass filter (BMK-13). One thing I noticed is that the AMSOIL kit has brought my oil pressure down. I've never liked how small the lines were for the kit (13/32"), and now I think I'm going to get rid of it and opt for a large oil cooler (w/thermostat).
With the reading I've been doing on this forum, I'm not sure which oil I should go with. This car is also supercharged (as were the two other SHO's I referred to earlier) making 460+hp and will be making more soon, so it generates heat. I also have a massive radiator, but horrible air flow to it right now.
I think the next oil I'm going to use will be Red Line, but I'm not sure which viscosity to go with. I was thinking 0w-40 or 10w-30. Does this seem like a good choice? If not, what are your thoughts?
Here are few pictures of my damage:
Upper and lower spun bearing
Rod w/ no bearing
Rod Journal
Rod bearing shavings on the pickup screen
Tonight, I'll take some pictures of the 'good' bearings and post them. They don't look great, but the last time I drove the car was on track when I spun the bearing. I can tell some particles made it through the system as you can see it in the bearings.
Anyway, this car recently spun a rod bearing (hence the rebuild) due to some track use, and what I attribute to HOT OIL. When I spun the bearing, I was open tracking the car and the only thing that would stop my runs would be the water temp was climbing to 240F or so. At that point, I would do a cool-down lap or two to bring the engine temp down, as well as the brakes. When I spun the bearing, I knew the car was running warm, but I had two cars in my sights and wanted to pass them before calling it a day. When I let off for my cool-down lap, I turned down the heater to hear that I had spun the #5 bearing.
I did not have an oil temp gauge, but I have seen the relationship between water/oil tem on two other SHO's that see track use. The most notable is on the 'track' SHO. The water temp on that car sits around 200 - 210 degrees, but the oil will reach up to 260 before we shut down for a cool-down. This car has also spun a rod bearing, but has since had the motor rebuilt.
As for my car... It is generally a street car, but gets driven pretty hard on the street, and an occasional canyon cruise (which can be near track conditions for me). I do drive it normally most of the time on the street, but I occasionally take it up to 8,000 RPM just to feel the power. The car was only tracked once and made it through a complete day of track before spinning the bearing. On track, I was taking the motor up to 7,000 RPM regularly and probably never made it under 4k or 5k RPM.
I have been running Mobil 1 10w-30 with a 2-quart Accusump, and an AMSOIL remote/bypass filter (BMK-13). One thing I noticed is that the AMSOIL kit has brought my oil pressure down. I've never liked how small the lines were for the kit (13/32"), and now I think I'm going to get rid of it and opt for a large oil cooler (w/thermostat).
With the reading I've been doing on this forum, I'm not sure which oil I should go with. This car is also supercharged (as were the two other SHO's I referred to earlier) making 460+hp and will be making more soon, so it generates heat. I also have a massive radiator, but horrible air flow to it right now.
I think the next oil I'm going to use will be Red Line, but I'm not sure which viscosity to go with. I was thinking 0w-40 or 10w-30. Does this seem like a good choice? If not, what are your thoughts?
Here are few pictures of my damage:
Upper and lower spun bearing
Rod w/ no bearing
Rod Journal
Rod bearing shavings on the pickup screen
Tonight, I'll take some pictures of the 'good' bearings and post them. They don't look great, but the last time I drove the car was on track when I spun the bearing. I can tell some particles made it through the system as you can see it in the bearings.
I agree with the move to Redline (not that I am any authority on racing engines or such). Redline has gobs of zddp and moly, way more than your off the shelf API oils and more than some racing oils. I don't think Redline makes 0w40. They have a 5w40, but I heard that is the only Redline grade with viscosity index improvers added. All the rest are virtually straight weight oils that meet the multigrade classification because of the extreme versatility of the ester base oil. I would run 10w30 or 10w40 or some blend between the two, depending on what the engine needs. If oil pressure is good with 10w30 then no need to go any thicker IMO.
My vote goes for the German Castrol if you don't want to spring for the Redline. You can get GC at Autozone. It would be interesting to see how GC does on a race track.
Redline $7 a quart at myoilshop.com. But tensecondz1 may have the better idea. A synthetic HDMO (fleet oil, gas/diesel rated) would have the higher additive levels. Might do the trick.
40 weights aren't an automatic if using a good cooler. Let your oil temps help you decide. Make sure you install an accurate oil temp gauge.
My vote is to put an oil temperature guage in the car. Then any time the oil creeps above 265dF its time for some cool down laps.
Well considering the Rotella is 15cst and GC 12.1 it could offering better protection in the high rpms.
So ya it might be better.
Of course you could also go 5w50 17.4cst which isn't any harder on cold starts then the the Rotella, obviously the GC is better in this regard.
So ya it might be better.
Of course you could also go 5w50 17.4cst which isn't any harder on cold starts then the the Rotella, obviously the GC is better in this regard.
AutoMeter doen't make and oil temp gauge in the lunar series, so that's why I haven't installed one yet. What I am going to do is mount a sender in the oil pan and use a switch to toggle back and forth between the oil temp and water temp on the water temp gauge. Since the stock gauge is also still functional, I can feel comfortable on leaving the swith on to monitor oil while I run it hard.
It doesn't take long to get the oil to 265F the way the car was running when I spun the bearing. It probably took me too laps to reach that.
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