Seals at a/c compressor lines

[D60]

Vehicle is 2000 Cavalier 2.2

I recently replaced these seals at the compressor. I had the system apart for other reasons again today but it very much looked like it was leaking at the compressor here.

i found the seals "blown out" like this. Is this installer error? What causes this?

Nothing else in the gasket kit was close, and these appeared to fit well upon initial installation (not too tight, not sloppy)

Are these directional when new and I missed it?

The "blown" protrusion goes into the compressor:

I think (can't remember) I used Nylog Blue when I installed these -- does it not play nice with the rubber in this style seal?

This is the hose end. I just slipped the seals on the male nipples here (fit seemed good), slid into compressor, and tightened the central bolt. It would seem pretty idiot-proof but perhaps I am at elite idiot status?

 

[Timmastertech]

most aftermarket sealing washers are piss poor quality. I use only genuine GM anymore and stopped having these issues.

 

[Nukeman7]

^^^^ This. I suspect those were poor quality aftermarket seals made of cheap rubber instead of the proper BUNA-N material. Nylog Blue should be compatible with BUNA-N.

(Note: edited after I re-read your chronological summary in the OP)

 

[D60]

I think those seals look typical for a 24 y.o. vehicle. It just degraded due to thermo-cycling stress and high system pressure transitions over 2 decades. Nylog blue is compatible with all R-134a seals which are usually N-BUNA rubber.

Nah they're like a month old.

So either I screwed up when I installed them at that time or the product is screwed up.

 

[97prizm]

Did you lose A/C? Mine went out on my 1997 cavalier. I thought A/C seals or gaskets used specialty sealant depending on the refrigerant.

 

[RooflessVW]

most aftermarket sealing washers are piss poor quality. I use only genuine GM anymore and stopped having these issues.

I have had good luck with Motorcraft. They're "OEM" for my aircraft A/C

 

[CorvairGeek]

I've had the same bottle of original Nylog and haven't seen any do that (R12 & R134a systems). I haven't bothered with the centering tubes either.
I prefer the old style compressor sealing o-rings that GM used. No chart required to see what color/thickness to use.

 

[Fitz98]

When I re-did my AC system, I just used the PAG oil to lubricate the seals while installing. Not even sure if I was supposed to do that. I used a Delco seal kit.
I didn't even know what Nylog was (goes to show what I know about AC work), so I did a quick search. Looked like it was designed more for flared fittings and threads.
I bet @Chris142 will have some good advice regarding this. He helped me out a lot with my 1st AC experience and so far so good. One thing for sure, those don't look like they will be doing a very good job creating a good seal. A shame to do all that work to get that kind of failure. If it was me, I would not believe it could be seals that were bad if it was only a month old. I would have ruled that out as a possibility during my troubleshooting, but sure looks like your problem.

 

[Chris142]

those go on dry. no oil or lube of any kind. did you oil them when you installed them?

 

[wtd]

Are those sealing washers the same thickness because they look like they are. Your compressor holes and the manifold that attaches to the compressor are different depths. This looks like the exact setup that my 92 Cavalier uses and it takes two different thickness of washers to seal this connection. One is thicker than the other.

 

[Timmastertech]

Are those sealing washers the same thickness because they look like they are. Your compressor holes and the manifold that attaches to the compressor are different depths. This looks like the exact setup that my 92 Cavalier uses and it takes two different thickness of washers to seal this connection. One is thicker than the other.

Your 92 takes 2 different thicknesses because there was a design change on the compressor and how it seals and the sealing washers are an update from the o-rings that were originally used. This 2000 cavalier has a stepped manifold hose that matches the steps on the compressor and both sealing washers are the same thickness.

 

[wtd]

Your 92 takes 2 different thicknesses because there was a design change on the compressor and how it seals and the sealing washers are an update from the o-rings that were originally used. This 2000 cavalier has a stepped manifold hose that matches the steps on the compressor and both sealing washers are the same thickness.

Good to know. Manifold on his may be warped. I had that happen to the manifold hose on one of my vehicles and it wouldn't seal any longer no matter what I did.

 

[D60]

Your 92 takes 2 different thicknesses because there was a design change on the compressor and how it seals and the sealing washers are an update from the o-rings that were originally used. This 2000 cavalier has a stepped manifold hose that matches the steps on the compressor and both sealing washers are the same thickness.

Yep, exactly this. I looked at this today before posting and the manifold is stepped and the compressor c-bored accordingly.

So, same thickness washer.

 

[Timmastertech]

Good to know. Manifold on his may be warped. I had that happen to the manifold hose on one of my vehicles and it wouldn't seal any longer no matter what I did.

That manifold will crack before it warps. Its poor quality sealing washers

 

[D60]

those go on dry. no oil or lube of any kind. did you oil them when you installed them?

Again, I can't remember what I had for dinner last night but I have a vague recollection of using Nylog only.

So, is it your position that lube and/or oil would cause this?

I'm not arguing, just trying to learn from my mistake -- if it was my mistake. I'm happy to take the blame if doing so means I learn something (now, remembering what I learn is a separate subject!!)

 

[Chris142]

Again, I can't remember what I had for dinner last night but I have a vague recollection of using Nylog only.

So, is it your position that lube and/or oil would cause this?

I'm not arguing, just trying to learn from my mistake -- if it was my mistake. I'm happy to take the blame if doing so means I learn something (now, remembering what I learn is a separate subject!!)

Oiling or lubing them will definatly make them leak or blow out. I cant explain why but I have seen it before

 

[D60]

Not that this matters much as they're all Chinese, but the first set was GPD (right). As I discovered the problem on a Friday evening, the best I could do was get a Murray set (left) from O'Reilly Saturday morning. I'd love OEM but that wasn't happening on a Saturday.

Anyway, the seals in the Murray kit (gloved hand) appear to be of a slightly different construction than the GPD (in old compressor). So, maybe they come from a different Chicom factory. Hope springs eternal!

It's the best I can do right now. Here I sit at 12:20a Sunday pulling down the system. Maybe I can be in bed by 2a......happy EARLY Father's Day to all the dads!!!

 

[Nukeman7]

Does the right side port require the aluminum insert on your compressor? The video below might help...good luck on Father's Day!

 

[Snagglefoot]

Thanks for the great posts. It will make me look at my set of seals. The same seal design is used on GM’s where the line enters the evaporator AFAIK. Here is a shot of a black light applied to the connector. It had dye in the system and a replacement seal. The system is holding for now but I will take it apart If I lose pressure again and will make sure I have GM seals.

 

[Nukeman7]

Oiling or lubing them will definatly make them leak or blow out. I cant explain why but I have seen it before

Chris, do you normally apply PAG oil or Nylog to lubricate conventional O-ring seals on automotive A/C connections? I am getting ready to replace the same manifold hose on a Ford Ranger compressor but haven't located the correct size O-rings. Will a size #211 O-ring fit and should it be BUNA-N or Viton rubber?

TIA and hoping the wildfire stays far away!