sealed motorcycle chain lube

[Bonz]

I've tried every chain lube I could find over the years, including gear oil. This has been my choice for years now.

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Yep ditto on the Pro Honda "Moly" red stripe can lube. Currently 21,200 miles on an EK ZVX3 530 chain using this Lube on a 1200 cc high horsepower/torque ZRX 1200. 33,000 miles on the D.I.D ZVMX chain before that. This stuff has absolutely no fling, dries clear. From the chain life I have experienced, no reason to run another lube for 95% of my riding. When I know it will be wet, I will use the Pro Honda "White Graphite" lube in the blue stripe can. However this is not as clean and does fling some.

I realize this next part of my post is probably "Chains 101" and basic knowledge. The lube that matters is sealed within the pins and rollers by the X-rings or O-rings. Nothing's getting out of those seals or you'd have a white lithium-type grease mess everywhere.

With that, there's no lube getting in from the outside either. Chain lube is solely to lube any external contact points on the chain plates, pins, rollers/sprocket interface and keep the x or o-ring seals from drying out and remaining flexible/ pliable.

 

[BusyLittleShop]

I prefer Motul Chain Paste... First squeeze the white grease from the
tube and load the brush... next hold the loaded brush to the inside of the
chain rollers to transfer the white grease... After a couple of spins
of the chain it's lubed like from the Factory... Motul Chain Paste
clings with no flings...

 

[Bonz]

I've used Motul chain paste as well, for a riding season. Always seem to be some fling no matter how well it was wiped off. When the chain heats up, there is a bit of fling no matter how little is on there. With 33,000 miles of chain life using Pro Honda Moly, don't know what more to ask for out of a lube.

 

[02SE]

I use Motul 300V 4T motor oil. But I also didn't care for their chain paste, for similar reasons as stated by @Bonz. But also because it seemed to attract/hold dirt more readily.

 

[Bonz]

Yes on the attracting and holding dirt more readily, agree. Granted, the fling was a dark splattering, which means some dirt went with it. However a lightly damp kerosene rag to wipe the chain after a round of Motul vs Pro Honda Moly, is an easy tell which one attracts more dirt.

 

[Mackelroy]

Motorex strong street, is a synthetic lithium. As far as cushioning sprocket teeth and keeping chain rollers free, its very good.

But this is only for pure longevity of sprocket parts, its not really for clean freaks.

 

[Greenbeforeblue]

Dupont Chain Saver is my favorite. Wax based, goes on clean, no fling off mess.

I use this stuff in all weather on my bicycles and motorcycles. For me, it's the best thing I've ever used in over 50 years on 2 wheels.

 

[Finklejag]

I been using the BMW moly chain lube for years and it’s great. I believe the Honda moly lube is the same stuff. It never flings. I been using this Oinker for the last few months and now I use way less lube.

 

[kmrinpa]

thanks all! no longer interested...the bike I was eyeballing comes equipped with a non sealed chain (discovered after further research) AND I will not be getting the mini moto since finances got bad real fast...new round of medical bills

 

[donnyj08]

Dupont Chain Saver is my favorite. Wax based, goes on clean, no fling off mess.

Same, and easy to get at Walmart.

Occasionally I’ll use old school Amsoil Metal Protector spray

 

[Fordiesel69]

I use the one from the honda dealer. Cheap and easy to obtain locally.

Problem is you have to trust it is working, it is that clean!!!!!!!

 

[ZeeOSix]

Maxima Chain Wax or Dupont Chain Saver. The Dupont is much cheaper in price and can conveniently be bought at Walmart. I do find that the Maxima does go a little farther (ie, before the center rollers start getting dry/shiny) before a re-lube needs to be done, but not a big difference.

 

[ZeeOSix]

With that, there's no lube getting in from the outside either. Chain lube is solely to lube any external contact points on the chain plates, pins, rollers/sprocket interface and keep the x or o-ring seals from drying out and remaining flexible/ pliable.

It also lubes not only the outside of the center rollers that make contact with the sprockets, but lubes the inside of those rollers which make contact and move on the link pins of the chain. The lube goes down through the gaps at the end of the rollers and wicks to the inside of the rollers.

 

[Bonz]

Zee, good point. Even though that contact area between the chain plate and the end of the pin/roller is a fairly small area, important nonetheless.

My opinion, the key point is to dispel the "common" misconception it gets into the area that is sealed by the X/O-Ring containing the grease from the manufacturer.

In my estimation, that is a huge reason viscous and flingy/sticky/messy chain lubes are used, folks think it's doing a job and infiltrating places on the chain that it's not.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Zee, good point. Even though that contact area between the chain plate and the end of the pin/roller is a fairly small area, important nonetheless.

My opinion, the key point is to dispel the "common" misconception it gets into the area that is sealed by the X/O-Ring containing the grease from the manufacturer.

In my estimation, that is a huge reason viscous and flingy/sticky/messy chain lubes are used, folks think it's doing a job and infiltrating places on the chain that it's not.

Chain lube in a spray can comes out pretty thin so it can wick through the gap on each side of the rollers and get in to the inside area of the rollers. Then the carrier evaporates and leaves the lube thick where it should be.

I agree it won't penetrate the O-rings, as they provide too good of a seal. On a sealed chain, the lube is really just for the rollers (inside and outside surface) and the sprockets. Depending on how well it can penetrate, it might also provide a little lubrication for the O-rings.

 

[Bonz]

If the O-rings or X-rings are working, nothing will get in, otherwise the factory lube would be leaking out. In my experience lubrication is needed for what we've talked about with respect to the plates and pins externally. However it does nothing meaningful to prolong the internal life of an X/O-ring chain. As shared above, if the X/O ring is letting any lubrication in, regardless of brand/thickness, the lube the factory put in there is getting out too. Factory Lube is a thick white lithium grease for lack of a better description. Nothing that can wick in would be beneficial to mix with that. At that point nothing good is happening to the chain.

Lubricating chains was necessary back in the day before x-rings and o-rings. That was the only way lubrication could get to the critical areas that take the most stress and wear. Not the case at this point with X or O-ring chains.

The "red rust of death" is the sign a chain is overdue if not immediately due for replacement. That's when the internal lubrication has come out after the O-rings or x-rings are beyond their service life and the pins/rollers internally are wearing on themselves to create the rust dust. This is typically after quite a long time of happy chain life. I have seen it once, at 33,000 miles on a top tier X- ring chain on my ZRX1200. Lubrication every day on the road trip at the time was the only way to deter the dust. However, the chain was done.

X-rings in my experience are worth every penny when it comes a chain, and external lubrication is really a byproduct of the past with respect to how big of a job it used to do compared to how little it does today.

 

[ZeeOSix]

If the O-rings or X-rings are working, nothing will get in, otherwise the factory lube would be leaking out. In my experience lubrication is needed for what we've talked about with respect to the plates and pins externally. However it does nothing meaningful to prolong the internal life of an X/O-ring chain. As shared above, if the X/O ring is letting any lubrication in, regardless of brand/thickness, the lube the factory put in there is getting out too. Factory Lube is a thick white lithium grease for lack of a better description. Nothing that can wick in would be beneficial to mix with that. At that point nothing good is happening to the chain.

True, but I don't think anyone is claiming chain lube gets past the O-rings.

Lubricating chains was necessary back in the day before x-rings and o-rings. That was the only way lubrication could get to the critical areas that take the most stress and wear. Not the case at this point with X or O-ring chains.

X-rings in my experience are worth every penny when it comes a chain, and external lubrication is really a byproduct of the past with respect to how big of a job it used to do compared to how little it does today.

I think it's still necessary to keep the sprockets and rollers (inside and outside) from wearing. When the chain rollers are lubricated, it will transfer to the sprocket teeth too, which is a good thing. Ever see a guy's chain that doesn't ever lube it? The rollers are all worn and shiny as chrome. When the rollers on my chains start looking dry and becoming more shiny, then it's time for anther application of chain lube.

 

[KrisZ]

Some lube on the rollers is probably a good thing so that the sprockets don’t wear as fast vs them being dry.
Gear oil spreads nicely on them.

After quick wipe and gear oil applied by brush.

After it’s been ridden.

 

[02SE]

Have you been riding your 'Busa on dirt roads? Clean that thing...

 

[KrisZ]

Have you been riding your 'Busa on dirt roads? Clean that thing...

I've been riding it to work for the past few weeks, and it's dusty in Texas I guess.