seafoam necessity if FP is used constantly

[JHZR2]

Here is a question that maybe a long time user of FP, or a tester or knowledgable formulation expert might be able to answer:

I see a lot of people wanting to use seafoam, and based upon the smoking, it indicates that something significant is going on inside, likely cleaning...

Since FP is a cleaner as one of its functions, can anyone comment on real long-term use and testing that indicated that if an additive such as FP is used in correct doses consistently, even over hundreds of thousands of miles, that a heavy-dutycleaner like seafoam through a brake booster hose will NOT be needed? In other words, that the combustion chambners will remain SO clean from using the standard doses of FP that doing, say a seafoam regimen will ne of little to no use?

Thanks,

JMH

 

[04SpecV]

I used FP60 usually in double and higher doses for over a year atleast 6500miles(recently MMO) After a while of using it, I still got smoking when pouring B12 chemtool thru my intake. I have also used other fuel injector cleaners in the past.

Just the other week I dripped about 5oz of FP60 thru my intake, this also caused a good bit of smoke.

I'm thinking that the smoke isn't totally from the cleaning effect.

My engine seems to be extremely dirty for some reason tho(see other post). Wait maybe all these fuel additives affected my RX cleaning. Hmm I hadn't thought about that before.


I wish I had a borescope.

 

[Alex P.]

Are you sucking FP through a vacuum line, too?

 

[04SpecV]

quote:

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Originally posted by Alex P.:
Are you sucking FP through a vacuum line, too?

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My truck uses TBI so I just slowly squirted/dripped it down around the fuel injectors.

 

[deepsquat]

I have been using FP 60 for what ..3 years now ..so around 90,000 + miles and I passed emissions test last month with flying colors ...210,000 on a 95 nissan altima ..haven't used anything else in the tank

 

[JHZR2]

yes, but we pass emissions on a dyno with flying colors in out toyota previa with 196k, every time, and its had no additives ever, and was only swapped to syn oil at 160k... we've had it since new so know all the history.

I'm not convinced that any additive is really necessary in some fuel markets, though lubricity is a concern in all of them, and that is mainly why I use FP.

yes, borescope tests would say for relativelyt certain the need for cleaners, and the effectiveness.

Personally, I think that seafoam is a bit harsh to use regularly, IMO... so Id like to avoid it if possible.

JMH

 

[LCD]

The smoking that seafoam, B12, or FP60 cause really means nothing. Many products claim the white smoke means cleaning is going on when it does not.

 

[JHZR2]

but LCD - can you comment on cleanliness of everything from intakes, rings, valves, combustion chambers, etc. of an engine that has used just fuel all its life, vs fuel with FP, vs. either after a long-term usage and then seafoam cleaning?

As I said, Id like to believe that using asomething like FP would remove the need to use something that is a bit 'stringent' for my taste, like seafoam... and based upon my experience, in reality, NO additive is really necessary...

But to keep lubricity and cleanliness up, Id like to be able to stay with FP only.... Im just hoping for needs to use something else from time to time...

After all, for example in the oil cleanliness arena, experts seem to reccomend using LC constantly, but still doing ARX every year or so to ensure top cleanliness... Is such a similar thing optimal for the fuel system?

Thanks,

JMH

 

[unDummy]

IMO, the use of both FP and ARX isn't necessary. Either use one or the other. And, someone pushing both is more of a marketeer and not an expert.

For an increase in fuel lubricity, add 1-3 ounces of 2-stroke oil to the gas.
For a little cleaning in the fuel system, add 3-4 ounces of kerosene/biodiesel to the fuel.
For a moisture control, add an ounce or 2 of IPA to the mix.

Use a "recycled" FI cleaner bottle, mix the above and make your own brand of MPG improving, uppercylinder lube, fuel dryer,.... FI cleaner.

For $1, 5-10 minute flush of kero/bdsl once a year will keep your engine clean.

The "smoking" of Seafoam(or water or other product) is pretty much just like 'steam cleaning' your engine. I don't see it any more harsh then running an engine on any fuel like gasoline or diesel. Actually, I'd wager that a pale light oil, like what is in Seafoam, is probably less harsh then gasoline since Seafoam is also labelled an upper cylinder lube.

 

[bruce381]

Look up the MSDS on seafoam and you will see it is just a simple mix of Iso Propyl alcohol with pale oil and naptha (light base oil and a kerosene cut).
no magic just by introducing it to an area of the engine like the manifold for instance in a liquid state it will dessolve some gunk then be burned off as engine is re started blowing white smoke this is due to the pale oil vaporizing. Same type light pale oil is used in the smoke of the sky writing planes.

For the price go bye a gallon of kerosene and let fly. The LC stuff I do not know but if it is an AO then you do not need the seafoam stuff. IMHO seafoam is not needed.
bruce

 

[1sttruck]

I poured part of a can of Seafoam into a vcacuum line, and yes it did smoke a lot. When I sprayed part of a can of Seafoam Deep Creep (Seafoam spray basically) into the throttle body while working the butterfly valve it didn't smoke nearly as much. I'm guessing that most of the smoke was from Seafoam working it's way to the exhaust system where it will smoke until it burns off, while spraying it in while revving the engine burns off most of it before it gets to the exhaust, so it doesn't smoke as much.

Just a guess though.