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school me on Interior house paint
- Thread starter raaizin
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Originally Posted by ET16
I've have heard that eggshell holds up better than flat.
Yes but eggshell has a slight sheen that will show poor sheetrock work (tape lines, dings not well patches, texture clumps etc) That's why production new home builders use FLAT paint on the walls ultra flat because it hides these imperfections long enough for the buyer to ohh and ahh at the big architectural features then go the closing.
If you can deal with that and the slight sheen, eggshell is a very durable finish.
I've have heard that eggshell holds up better than flat.
Yes but eggshell has a slight sheen that will show poor sheetrock work (tape lines, dings not well patches, texture clumps etc) That's why production new home builders use FLAT paint on the walls ultra flat because it hides these imperfections long enough for the buyer to ohh and ahh at the big architectural features then go the closing.
If you can deal with that and the slight sheen, eggshell is a very durable finish.
Paint is one commodity where you DO get what you pay for.
I generally use Sherwin Williams "Duration" paint in matte finish for walls - it covers well and can be scrubbed if necessary. One thing about SW: never pay full price - they regularly have promotions with deep discounts.
I generally use Sherwin Williams "Duration" paint in matte finish for walls - it covers well and can be scrubbed if necessary. One thing about SW: never pay full price - they regularly have promotions with deep discounts.
SW has 30% off right now. Get on their mailing list.
We've been using PPG paints almost exclusively since they returned to their company owned store business model a few years ago. I've never had an issue with their paint, and their Breakthrough is fantastic for doors, cabinets and trim. The stuff bonds to almost anything and wears like iron. It dries extremely fast-we can pull cabinet doors in the morning, spray two coats on the doors and boxes, and have it all back together by lunch.
I have yet to have to repaint anything that was first painted with Breakthrough.
I have yet to have to repaint anything that was first painted with Breakthrough.
Originally Posted by skyactiv
I had my custom home painted with Benjamin Moore. Benjamin Moore uses their own colorants called Gennex, not the universal colorants you'd get in a $17 or a $50 can of paint in Home Depot or Walmart, Lowes... .
Ben Moore and Sherwin-Williams make their own colorants - everyone else almost always uses CCA. Behr supports Home Depot with BASF colorants with their label. The bases are different between the brands and with Ben Moore the colorants. All paints have tintable white, medium/accent and deep bases - medium and deep bases have less titanium dioxide and "organic" colorants, deep bases are almost clear. Some brands like BM and Dunn-Edwards(SoCal/AZ) have an 4x/ultra deep base.
Where a paint store shines at is color matching - they usually take the time to match to a color chip or a paint sample by eye. Home Depot/Lowe's/Ace/WM only match via spectrometer, very rarely will HD match by eye. I was over at The Critic's place while he was doing some painting and I saw a can of Behr matched to a SW color that was slightly off. However, HD and Ace do have some competitive color formulae in their system and I've gotten Kelly-Moore colors shot in Behr or Ace Royal for my place as touch-up with a dead-on match.
With that said, if you pick a color in one brand of paint, stick to that brand.
I had my custom home painted with Benjamin Moore. Benjamin Moore uses their own colorants called Gennex, not the universal colorants you'd get in a $17 or a $50 can of paint in Home Depot or Walmart, Lowes... .
Ben Moore and Sherwin-Williams make their own colorants - everyone else almost always uses CCA. Behr supports Home Depot with BASF colorants with their label. The bases are different between the brands and with Ben Moore the colorants. All paints have tintable white, medium/accent and deep bases - medium and deep bases have less titanium dioxide and "organic" colorants, deep bases are almost clear. Some brands like BM and Dunn-Edwards(SoCal/AZ) have an 4x/ultra deep base.
Where a paint store shines at is color matching - they usually take the time to match to a color chip or a paint sample by eye. Home Depot/Lowe's/Ace/WM only match via spectrometer, very rarely will HD match by eye. I was over at The Critic's place while he was doing some painting and I saw a can of Behr matched to a SW color that was slightly off. However, HD and Ace do have some competitive color formulae in their system and I've gotten Kelly-Moore colors shot in Behr or Ace Royal for my place as touch-up with a dead-on match.
With that said, if you pick a color in one brand of paint, stick to that brand.
I don't think you can go too wrong with any "line" of paint from either Orange/Blue construction store. I've used most of them with decent results. Valspar, Glidden-Diamond I like a lot. Behr's good, but you don't have to get the $50 stuff. I am a satin sheen on walls guy. Satin cleans a bit better than flat. Less scuffing. Flat/eggshell on ceiling. Semi on trim/doors/base. Some of the color matching, issues, has to do with proprietary colors of the diff brands. It's hard to cross-match. Just get a color that you like is best. You can have primer tinted (cheap) then go over the walls with the color/finish. Rolling walls with primer doesn't take long, and you dont have to be perfect. I'm not a huge paint+primer/expensive guy. Just not convinced. Although, im sure it works. Would you rather have 2 coats, or one? IMO.
Some tips: I like 1/2" nap on rollers (try to avoid cheap rollers) and run the roller on masking tape to get the lint off. Hold tape with knees, and roll off 3', and run the roller on it until there is no more lint. 1/2" has good texture and holds fair amount of paint, 3/8" not so much.
When you are patching>> hold light/flashlight to "see" imperfections, right against the wall/down the wall will show stuff.... and you can use the cheap fluffy spackle, or regular drywall mud if you have time to wait for it to dry. Cheap grey foam sponges are good to sand smooth (smooth grit). Then, if you have a lot of patches.. do a rough "stipple" with a brush on the sanded patch... then... when you go over it with the roller.. it will have some texture to the rest of the wall and blend in better.
A 3M tan tape+ paper masking machine can really save time to cover doors/baseboard. Upfront a lot $.. but paper/tape is cheap.
The $12 kit with roller/pan/brush can be a good deal to get started, and a 4' extension is super for the ceiling. Don't rinse a used roller. They are not free, but just use a new one with a new color/paint. You can double bag a roller and use it a month later if you want.. that's okay. it can't dry out.
And the cheap "painters" caulk is good... don't need to overspend there... just dont make a big hole on the tube... just tip of pen sized... you can always do another line of caulk but too much is not good... Also ... you can mask off when you are caulking... that helps.. for a clean line.
Hope this helped. Have fun, and a lot of cold beer (ice tea).
Some tips: I like 1/2" nap on rollers (try to avoid cheap rollers) and run the roller on masking tape to get the lint off. Hold tape with knees, and roll off 3', and run the roller on it until there is no more lint. 1/2" has good texture and holds fair amount of paint, 3/8" not so much.
When you are patching>> hold light/flashlight to "see" imperfections, right against the wall/down the wall will show stuff.... and you can use the cheap fluffy spackle, or regular drywall mud if you have time to wait for it to dry. Cheap grey foam sponges are good to sand smooth (smooth grit). Then, if you have a lot of patches.. do a rough "stipple" with a brush on the sanded patch... then... when you go over it with the roller.. it will have some texture to the rest of the wall and blend in better.
A 3M tan tape+ paper masking machine can really save time to cover doors/baseboard. Upfront a lot $.. but paper/tape is cheap.
The $12 kit with roller/pan/brush can be a good deal to get started, and a 4' extension is super for the ceiling. Don't rinse a used roller. They are not free, but just use a new one with a new color/paint. You can double bag a roller and use it a month later if you want.. that's okay. it can't dry out.
And the cheap "painters" caulk is good... don't need to overspend there... just dont make a big hole on the tube... just tip of pen sized... you can always do another line of caulk but too much is not good... Also ... you can mask off when you are caulking... that helps.. for a clean line.
Hope this helped. Have fun, and a lot of cold beer (ice tea).
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