The top one looks very much like bottles used by Comp Cams for their additives. The labelling is even eerily similar.
Schaeffer #132 Moly EP Oil Treatment
- Thread starter jnewkirk
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The bottle I have is the top one.
It has been in my stash about 3 years now that I think about it.
I have a OCI coming up... I think I will use it then.
It has been in my stash about 3 years now that I think about it.
I have a OCI coming up... I think I will use it then.
I just read the whole thread and this additive thickens the engine oil. Does Schaeffer have a formulation without the oil thickener? That would be the best thing.
Originally Posted By: chiks
I just read the whole thread and this additive thickens the engine oil. Does Schaeffer have a formulation without the oil thickener? That would be the best thing.
No they don't, that's why guys mix it with something else to lessen the thickening effects of it.
I just read the whole thread and this additive thickens the engine oil. Does Schaeffer have a formulation without the oil thickener? That would be the best thing.
No they don't, that's why guys mix it with something else to lessen the thickening effects of it.
I still use the brew 132 with LC but only 4 ounces of each at oil change. Dealer can be found at http://haisleymachine.com/
Originally Posted By: Spector
I still use the brew 132 with LC but only 4 ounces of each at oil change. Dealer can be found at http://haisleymachine.com/
Holy Moses! They sell a 5 Gallon Pale of the #132 Moly EP Oil Treatment!
That's Incredible!
I still use the brew 132 with LC but only 4 ounces of each at oil change. Dealer can be found at http://haisleymachine.com/
Holy Moses! They sell a 5 Gallon Pale of the #132 Moly EP Oil Treatment!
That's Incredible!
Sure bring back memories right Mr Mola , been using 132 for yrs awesome product @ 1 ounce per liter .Were are you Mr B Brace.
Great product for an old muscle car...
UMM, Using a cheap dino oil and Moly or other anti friction additives is silly in my opinion, as you would be better off spending your money on a better oil that has all the required additives included in the first place.
Changing to a fully approved synthetic oil (Including the cheaper HC synthetics) of the best possible viscosity range and with all the required approvals and ratings will probably produce a better result.
With some engine types and turbo diesels in particular, using poor quality dino oil results in black death (Sludge and varnish), due to oil breakdown and lack of detergents.
The combination of bad oil and good additives, reminds me of folks in the US who use cheap oil filters and then say it's OK because they change their oil every 3000 miles. That doesn't work either!
Originally Posted By: jnewkirk
This is my 1st post on BITOG, so please be gentle.
I would like some feedback on the Schaeffer #132 Moly EP additive.
My family drives beater cars and I want to squeeze as much life out of them as possible. They all use a little oil (about a quart about every 2000 miles), so using a premium oil like Schaeffers or Amsoil with extended OCI would be expensive with the quart of make-up oil every 2000 miles.
I am thinking of using the Schaeffer #132 Moly EP additive with an inexpensive dino oil like Formula Shell or Chevron Supreme.
A search of BITOG shows some old posts about using the #132 additive as part of the famous "MolaBrew", but nothing recent. Are any of you using this stuff? If so, what are the results?
Also, will the Schaeffer 132 have any compatibility problem with AutoRx? Thanks for your help.
John
Changing to a fully approved synthetic oil (Including the cheaper HC synthetics) of the best possible viscosity range and with all the required approvals and ratings will probably produce a better result.
With some engine types and turbo diesels in particular, using poor quality dino oil results in black death (Sludge and varnish), due to oil breakdown and lack of detergents.
The combination of bad oil and good additives, reminds me of folks in the US who use cheap oil filters and then say it's OK because they change their oil every 3000 miles. That doesn't work either!
Originally Posted By: jnewkirk
This is my 1st post on BITOG, so please be gentle.
I would like some feedback on the Schaeffer #132 Moly EP additive.
My family drives beater cars and I want to squeeze as much life out of them as possible. They all use a little oil (about a quart about every 2000 miles), so using a premium oil like Schaeffers or Amsoil with extended OCI would be expensive with the quart of make-up oil every 2000 miles.
I am thinking of using the Schaeffer #132 Moly EP additive with an inexpensive dino oil like Formula Shell or Chevron Supreme.
A search of BITOG shows some old posts about using the #132 additive as part of the famous "MolaBrew", but nothing recent. Are any of you using this stuff? If so, what are the results?
Also, will the Schaeffer 132 have any compatibility problem with AutoRx? Thanks for your help.
John
I picked some up today my god this stuff is like gel! I'm almost afraid to put it in my mini, only reason I'm doing it is I run 0w-30 and figure it will bump it to 5w30 so we shall see.
Uhh, it will knock your 0w30 up to a 15w40 easily.
The first number is a "cold" number, designating when the oil turns into a solid (such as -20 degrees F or -30 degrees F).
The second number is what the viscosity range should be at operating temperature. By adding the #132 treatment you have raised the viscosity of the oil and the pour point.
If you've added it you should be fine. However, changing a 0w30 to a 5w30 is pretty much pointless. Only premium base stock synthetics can be made into "0" weights.
The first number is a "cold" number, designating when the oil turns into a solid (such as -20 degrees F or -30 degrees F).
The second number is what the viscosity range should be at operating temperature. By adding the #132 treatment you have raised the viscosity of the oil and the pour point.
If you've added it you should be fine. However, changing a 0w30 to a 5w30 is pretty much pointless. Only premium base stock synthetics can be made into "0" weights.
Originally Posted By: blacklamb
I picked some up today my god this stuff is like gel! I'm almost afraid to put it in my mini, only reason I'm doing it is I run 0w-30 and figure it will bump it to 5w30 so we shall see.
You'll no longer have a 30 grade oil. I bet you'd be in the high end of the 40 grade oils.
I picked some up today my god this stuff is like gel! I'm almost afraid to put it in my mini, only reason I'm doing it is I run 0w-30 and figure it will bump it to 5w30 so we shall see.
You'll no longer have a 30 grade oil. I bet you'd be in the high end of the 40 grade oils.
Maybe I wont put it in, granted being summer time and hot out I doubt it will hurt anything
Originally Posted By: blacklamb
Maybe I wont put it in, granted being summer time and hot out I doubt it will hurt anything
You can also use half a bottle, or cut the product with something else, that's been discussed here. I thinned it with MMO, under the advisement of someone very knowledgeable on this site. It can be thinned with other products as well.
Maybe I wont put it in, granted being summer time and hot out I doubt it will hurt anything
You can also use half a bottle, or cut the product with something else, that's been discussed here. I thinned it with MMO, under the advisement of someone very knowledgeable on this site. It can be thinned with other products as well.
I use it for a few of my older muscle cars(pre 70's)... Why would anyone use it in a newer vehicle?
I have a leak from the timing chain cover on my Taurus. It is a known issue with the Vulcan engine. It can be fixed. But you have to take everything off the engine to get to it.
It is not something I want to do right now.
Switching to 15w40, or adding a bottle of #132 Moly EP Oil Treatment really slows down the leak.
I know I am lazy. But I have read the online tutorials on doing this job. I have looked at what is needed and how much time it would take. I'm not sure I could get it done in 1 afternoon, and it is 100+ outside and I am in between jobs.
It just ain't getting done anytime soon.
The mechanic in a bottle will do its job for now.
It is not something I want to do right now.
Switching to 15w40, or adding a bottle of #132 Moly EP Oil Treatment really slows down the leak.
I know I am lazy. But I have read the online tutorials on doing this job. I have looked at what is needed and how much time it would take. I'm not sure I could get it done in 1 afternoon, and it is 100+ outside and I am in between jobs.
It just ain't getting done anytime soon.
The mechanic in a bottle will do its job for now.
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