Rust Remover Gel

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1,574
Location
Ca, US
I am looking for a Rust Remover to remove rust from the wheel and hub/brake area of my car. I live in the salt belt. So my plan is to first remove the rust where I can. Then apply anti seize so the wheel parts won't seize together. At least prevent it enough so I can take the parts off in the future. Where the wheel hub attaches to the car's chassis is the big problem area. I felt ripped from my money when I had to have my wheel hub "professionally" removed because I couldn't get it off myself. Anti size on the problem areas done miracles. But I want to really get all of the rust off the contact areas on the rotor to wheel contacts and hub to chassis contacts. It must have a gel or thick consistency for vertical surfaces so products like evapo-rust won't work. Some places are actually part of the car's chassis so liquid rust removal products won't work. The best I've found is Naval Jelly Rust Dissolver by Loctite which is available at Home Depot. Is there something better out there that I can buy locally? Safe for painted surfaces. And also reasonably priced for less than $20. I'm not at all concerned about cosmetics of my rotors. I have steel wheels so nobody can see my rotors anyways. My main concern is preventing parts from seizing to each other. I did use the search it only allows me to go back 1 year. Any help is appreciated.
 
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Messages
36,520
Location
ME
I think you're barking up the wrong tree. Stuff like iron spindles are going to rust; they put a bunch of extra metal in to make up for it. I always thought of rust convertors as being used for a little time to fix/ restore metal, then you do a final treatment, not leaving something chemically active sandwiched in there. I'd just use anti sieze in the app you suggest. Realistically are you going to have the car another nine years when you have to do this job again?
 

sunfire

Thread starter
Messages
1,574
Location
Ca, US
Originally Posted By: eljefino
I think you're barking up the wrong tree. Stuff like iron spindles are going to rust; they put a bunch of extra metal in to make up for it. I always thought of rust convertors as being used for a little time to fix/ restore metal, then you do a final treatment, not leaving something chemically active sandwiched in there. I'd just use anti sieze in the app you suggest. Realistically are you going to have the car another nine years when you have to do this job again?
No No No... I just need to a good rust remover to remove the rust. I plan on cleaning it all up with brake cleaner. Then apply anti seize to the clean surfaces. My new hub will eventual seize to the chassis again so I want remove the rust that's still there so I can apply anti seize to clean surfaces. It's the place where the hub bolts on to the chassis is the problem area. SNOW + WATER + SALT = RUSTED hub seized to chassis. It cost me a lot of $$$ b/c I couldn't take it off myself. My wheel hub was busted from running into the curb not from wear and tear. I am extra careful parallel parking now. I'm hoping the hub will be good for the life of the car but accidents can and will happen. So nobody has ever tried used a good chemical rust remover? I want to maximize the benefits of anti seize by removing the rust. Important lessons learned for my next car... apply a tiny bit of anti seize on everything.
 
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Messages
756
Location
MN
wire wheel on an angle grinder is going to be your best bet, stripping to bare white metal is going to just rust up quicker than if you wire wheel and leave a patina on the surface. Just hit it with the grinder, wipe it off and apply your anti-seize. For removing stuck parts a little heat does wonders, especially for unit bearings and rotors, cast iron expands quite a bit and expands evenly so stuck parts loosen up nicely with heat.
 

Nick1994

$50 Site Donor
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13,426
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Originally Posted By: ironman_gq
wire wheel on an angle grinder is going to be your best bet, stripping to bare white metal is going to just rust up quicker than if you wire wheel and leave a patina on the surface. Just hit it with the grinder, wipe it off and apply your anti-seize. For removing stuck parts a little heat does wonders, especially for unit bearings and rotors, cast iron expands quite a bit and expands evenly so stuck parts loosen up nicely with heat.
+1 Absolutely. If you don't have a grinder you can get wire brushes that go into a drill.
 
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