Running short ATF change intervals?

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Oct 15, 2022
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Usually when I get a new car I like to change the oil out with a few short OCIs to get everything cleaned. Is there any benefit to doing this for the transmission?

I swapped out the old fluid in my 99 rolla with dealer Dex-II/III fluid, however, this fluid is a mineral based oil and not a synthetic. There isn't much spec information on the fluid itself. So because of that I'm thinking of switching to Valvoline MaxLife Multi Vehicle ATF.

If I were to do this should I swap the filter out too or just do a typical drain/fill? I swapped the (Duralast)filter out on the initial change which was about 10k miles ago. Thanks.
 
Ten years ago I was driving a high-mileage Saab 9-5 with the Aisin 5-speed auto transmission. One of the "best practices" for DIY maintenance in the Saab community was to do a drain & fill of the transmission at every-other oil change, which was ~10k miles for me. Changing the ATF in that vehicle was easier than changing the oil. I pushed that car hard sometimes, but the transmission was always as smooth as a sewing machine.
 
I would not bother to change the transmission filter again.

My suggestion is to spring for an evacuation pump like a Mityvac and do a couple of drain and fills like you are thinking. If you want an improved Dexron III, Mobil ATF is synthetic also Castrol Transmax import multi vehicle is an improved synthetic Dex III fluid.
 
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I swapped out the old fluid in my 99 rolla with dealer Dex-II/III fluid, however, this fluid is a mineral based oil and not a synthetic. There isn't much spec information on the fluid itself. So because of that I'm thinking of switching to Valvoline MaxLife Multi Vehicle ATF.
Dexron IV is backwards compatible, synthetic, readily available and cheap.

If I were to do this should I swap the filter out too or just do a typical drain/fill? I swapped the (Duralast)filter out on the initial change which was about 10k miles ago.
I wouldn't have anything Duralast in my car, letalone a critical component like the transmission.
 
Yes it is a benefit to get the wear metals out. Remember this practice will not keep low quality parts from breaking though.
 
Dexron IV is backwards compatible, synthetic, readily available and cheap.


I wouldn't have anything Duralast in my car, letalone a critical component like the transmission.
I needed one fast and at the time didn't know as much about car parts as I do now.
I might just bite the bullet and swap out with a 50 dollar oem one.

I read that Dexron VI is less viscous and the shifts are already pretty noticeable in the car now.
 
I drive an 04 Escape to work because I'm limited on the size of vehicle I can park in the space I rent. Its the 3L 4x4 with the CD4E transmission. Those transmissions aren't know to last all that long. Mine has 140K on it now with no issues. I swap out 4 Qts every other oil change with Supertech Dex/Merc fluid. It doesn't have a serviceable filter.
 
IMHO first and complete ATF change is most important, and I think 10-20k miles is very reasonable for that first change. Then you can do D/F every 30-50k miles intervals in most cars.
 
I read that Dexron VI is less viscous and the shifts are already pretty noticeable in the car now.
Dexron VI is an LV (Low Viscosity) fluid so while it may be backwards-compatible, i.e. it shouldn't damage anything, you could definitely "feel" different shift behavior. Why not use a non-LV ATF in it, like Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF ? According to Castrol, it's compatible with Dex II and III. Valvoline has a non-LV fluid as well.
 
Many Toyota transmissions do not have regular filters but instead have a mesh screen that looks like a filter, personally I am not too sure on if this is the case for a 99 Corolla but if you swapped it out the first time you would have seen whether it is or not.

Anyways if the filter is new already there is zero reason to change it again.
 
Many Toyota transmissions do not have regular filters but instead have a mesh screen that looks like a filter, personally I am not too sure on if this is the case for a 99 Corolla but if you swapped it out the first time you would have seen whether it is or not.

Anyways if the filter is new already there is zero reason to change it again.
It's a screen filter
 
Valvoline Maxlife Properties:
1675972042009.png

Valvoline Dexron-VI/Mercon LV
1675972068480.png

Valvoline Dex/Merc
1675972104106.png


Should I go for the Dex/Merc application here? it seems to be closest in viscosity properties to Dexron III thus far
 
Valvoline Maxlife Properties:
View attachment 139611
Valvoline Dexron-VI/Mercon LV
View attachment 139612
Valvoline Dex/Merc
View attachment 139613

Should I go for the Dex/Merc application here? it seems to be closest in viscosity properties to Dexron III thus far

I personally run O'reillys Dexron VI on my 2002 Toyota which calls for Dexron III, absolutely no issues so far.

Dexron VI is backwards compatible to Dexron III, and the O'reillys is officially licensed unlike Maxlife so if officially licensed is important to you then Dexron VI is the best bet.

Dex/Merc is Dexron III they just cannot label it Dexron III as it is no longer licensed.
 
I generally change ATF and filter around every 50k to 60k. I have two cars a BMW (346k miles) and Toyota Tundra (312k miles changed every 80k with the timing belt) using this change interval. Like oil, it is easy to get OCD and start changing at ridiculously short intervals with little payback for the time and money spent. Finding "your happy place", that you are comfortable with is the goal. There is little down side to doing it early, or more often...but needs to be tempered against the cost versus benefit.
 
Yes, I'd say there is a benefit to exchanging in new ATF. So, several drain/refills will increase the ratio of new ATF.

The filter is a bug screen. It catches little. But, you clean or replace the pan magnets, and filters will have gaskets or orings that can sometimes leak with age and allow air to be sucked in. So, you're changing the useless filter simply to clean the magnets and to change the filter's sealing.

You can use Maxlife, and any import/universal/multivehicle ATF, or any Dexron/Mercon/MerconV-equivalent. I prefer the full viscosity ATF's in my older Toyota and Nissan transmissions, and didn't jump on the Maxlife or DexVI bandwagon. I do recommend full synthetic ATF's over the conventional stuff. Its your choice to pick the brand and whether you want an LV or standard visc ATF.
 
I wouldn't have anything Duralast in my car, letalone a critical component like the transmission.
Duralast doesn't "make" anything.

It was probably a decent filter from a known brand. The Duralast PS pump I bought was new from BBB and cheaper than from Rock Auto. Better warranty too.

The Duralast fan clutch was the HD version and made in the USA. Good warranty again.

I used to be in the "all Duralast ate junk" camp but it seems like there are good parts to be had.
 
Duralast doesn't "make" anything.

It was probably a decent filter from a known brand. The Duralast PS pump I bought was new from BBB and cheaper than from Rock Auto. Better warranty too.

The Duralast fan clutch was the HD version and made in the USA. Good warranty again.

I used to be in the "all Duralast ate junk" camp but it seems like there are good parts to be had.
I been using Duralast products for years with zero problems on both Dodge, Chevy and Toyota.
 
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