Running Cleaners, but Still Dirty Oil...

[Turk]

In my Saturn SL1 that I bought with 109k that now has 132k, I have been running different cleaners and high cleaning oil brands.

For oil filters, I run ext. length PureOne's.

The oil still keeps getting very dark at 2k, then about black at 3k.

No other car I've owned has oil so black, especially since I have been running cleaners.

So, what next? Concerns? I want to run it 250k.

 

[Roy Gutfinski]

You probably have some sludge buildup that is continuously being cleaned. Have you taken off the valve covers to see what the buildup is the the valvetrain area?

 

[Turk]

I have not taken it off yet...

 

[spasm3]

If its running fine, leave it alone. If your get aggressive with the cleaning, you could end up with a large amount of sludge making it to the oil pan and blocking up the oil pickup. This happened to me years ago with a 78 403 engine, killed the main and rod bearings.

 

[Turk]

The engine runs like a champ.

 

[c3po]

Originally Posted By: tpitcher
I have been running different cleaners and high cleaning oil brands.


Can you tell us what cleaners you have been running in your oil.

 

[Turk]

MMO & Seafoam with PP & Amsoil...

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: tpitcher
In my Saturn SL1 that I bought with 109k that now has 132k, I have been running different cleaners and high cleaning oil brands.

For oil filters, I run ext. length PureOne's.

The oil still keeps getting very dark at 2k, then about black at 3k.

No other car I've owned has oil so black, especially since I have been running cleaners.

So, what next? Concerns? I want to run it 250k.



Over the years I've run into this talking with friends. My suggestion would be to stick to the slow cleaners. I'd be running a pint of MMO for the last 1000 miles of your OCI, then during winter time, run a qt for the full OCI. It probably has lots of crud built up and you are slowly cleaning out. I would rather clean it slowly than try and use a fast flush. In over 35 years of using MMO, it has constantly proven itself to me as the safest and best way to clean up an engine. JMO

If you are really worried about the color of the oil, this is one of the few times I'd recommend a UOA just to see what is going on with the oil.

 

[Turk]

Yea, I agree with the UOA, dermapaint...

Next round will be Havoline DS & PureOne.

 

[Hermann]

+1 on recommending continued slow cleaning. Seems like the cleaners are working at just the right pace.

 

[EricJRoy]

If you have a K&N air filter, they allow your oil to get dirty quickly
Saturn to 250k? Dont these cars have a oil burning issue to do with the vavles, I owned an SC2

 

[rclint]

It may not be a dirt or sludge issue at all.. I have owned engines that just seem to turn the oil black, I'm not sure what causes this myself sump size ? something that really chews the oil up ? I have no idea, maybe even the rings not sealing perfect or just the design... but black oil does not mean much at all, you can't tell anything from the color of oil I have learned this. Enjoy the car, and as everyone else says don't use any harsh cleaning additives just in case it is sludge....

 

[TurboJim]

Are you changing the PCV valve on a regular basis? What is the oil consumption?

 

[VK56VD]

The Saturn has a timing chain that may be hard on the oil. My ex gf had an SL2 that wasn't very well maintained and it turned oil fairly dark quickly.

The best advice is to ignore the color of the oil, use a good brand and change it often. These cars don't like long OCI's.

 

[Turk]

Yep, I am changing the PCV with OEM ones regularly.

Using a NAPA premium air filter.

Uses about a quart per 1600 miles.

I put in MMO for top off's through the oil life.

Thanks!!

 

[Panzerman]

In a car with 109,000 miles and you dont know the maintence of, I would think dark to black oil is nothing to worry about. Oil is supposed to get dark and black, it is cleaning and removing soot and carbon. I much rather seeing oil come out dark then like new after 3000 miles, I know its cleaning. With all the new emmission controls and regulations, alot more pollution stays in the engine, than in the old days, it almost impossiable for oil not to pick up alot of contaimination that used to go out the tailpipe at one time.

 

[Turk]

My GMC 5.3L had 170,000 miles and the oil stays nice & light every oil change all the way through 8,000 mile OCI's on Amsoil.

The Saturn was just not well taken care of and probably had used up oil in it most of it's life.... before me that is.......

 

[keesue]

The engine in my 1981 Turbo Volvo had the same problem. I did exactly what you did to no avail with respect to black oil. At my last oil change, I added a can of Restore. After 2500 miles, the oil is a nice golden brown. On my fingers, it is clear and tacky where usually it would be black and nasty after 1500 miles. In addition, oil consumption and blow-by are essentially gone. The throttle body is as clean as it was when I cleaned it where normally it would show signs of blow-by after the first oil change.

The car runs exceptionally well now - emphasis on exceptional - and frankly, I couldn't be happier. I'm going to continue to use it. For the price and what it does, it is a no-brainer.

 

[c3po]

Originally Posted By: tpitcher
MMO & Seafoam with PP & Amsoil...


tpitcher, I will give ya my best thoughts and try and back them up.

As far as an oil to use, I would recommend Pennzoil Platinum, I have been running this oil in my small block chevy for about 17,000 miles and it seems to be working great with the cleaner that I am using.

I am using MMO, I would recommend that you run at least 20% of your Oil Volume with MMO. So, if your car holds 4 quarts of oil which is 128 ounces that would be about 25 ounces of MMO, if you have some oil consumption, just keep adding some oil and no more MMO.

It may be wise to run a good fuel injection cleaner followed by about 4 ounces of MMO in your gas at each fillup, you may even think about doing a piston soak with either MMO or Seafoam.

My small mower was consuming oil and letting out a few puffs of smoke, I added MMO to the oil and fuel, as well as doing a MMO Piston Soak and my oil consumption and puffs of smoke stopped.

I would also recommend making sure your breather baffles in the valve cover are free and clear, you may need to remove your valve cover.

Pennzoil Platinum and MMO totally cleaned my valvetrain up in 7000 miles, your engine should eventually get clean, its just going to take some miles and time.

 

[keesue]

Originally Posted By: keesue
The engine in my 1981 Turbo Volvo had the same problem. I did exactly what you did to no avail with respect to black oil. At my last oil change, I added a can of Restore. After 2500 miles, the oil is a nice golden brown. On my fingers, it is clear and tacky where usually it would be black and nasty after 1500 miles. In addition, oil consumption and blow-by are essentially gone. The throttle body is as clean as it was when I cleaned it where normally it would show signs of blow-by after the first oil change.

The car runs exceptionally well now - emphasis on exceptional - and frankly, I couldn't be happier. I'm going to continue to use it. For the price and what it does, it is a no-brainer.


I would also add that I used Seafoam spray to clean up the the throttle body, Seafoam liquid through a vacuum port after the throttle body to clean up the intake valves and pistons, Greased Lightning Fuel System Cleaner, which worked exceptionally well cleaning up my fuel pressure regulator and I have been using MMO. My old engine is running cleanly, the blow-by and consumption are gone, the fuel pumps and the regulator are working flawlessly and the car, a 1981 Turbo Volvo, runs like the wind.

I intend to switch to Penzoil Ultra at my next oil change and I will add Restore if the blow-by and consumption returns. I can see it from the breather with evidence on the throttle body plate if it does.