Rototiller won't continue to run- Sears 4 cycle

[tgrudzin]

Not a rototiller expert. Ran fine first season. Last season (2nd) , while running it it died. After trying a few different times to make it work, I left it until this year. Tried again yesterday and same trouble. It was 60 yesterday. Now, I have had trouble comprehending the correct oil level and my have seriously overfilled it last year and this year.

1. What damage could I have done by over-filling? 6oz versus 3oz.
2. What position should the machine be in when starting and warming up. Vertical, like your using it, or lying down on it's handles?
3. There are two hoses from the gas tank to the carb. Both are in gas in the tank, but the clear seems empty. The black goes to the priming bulb and after 10x priming, the mach will start on the 4-5 pull. This seems to be the current standard. Shop will charge $90 for minimal work. Just trying to fix myself. I even took the carb apart. Looks ok. This is a small 4 cycle engine, so no gas/fuel ratio problems.

It will run with starter fluid directly sprayed and choke closed. Sort of a low idle. Longest I had it was 2 minutes? Un-choke and the engine dies. Spark plug super clean, no fouling.

I currently have the proper oil level and the machine resting horizontal. I figure that should let all the oil drain properly, refill with fresh gas and try again. There is also a black breather(?) hose into the air cleaner chamber that oil seems to flow into. That was when it was over-filled. I report back more and that hose. I blew air into it to see if something was clogged. Seemed to help.

 

[MichiganMadMan]

My opinions:
1. I doubt anything. You are ahead of most people with OPE having actually bothered to check it.
2. As you use it.
3. 10 shots at a primer sounds a little high to me, but not outrageous.

The black hose from the crank case into the air cleaner is to vent any blowby back into the engine versus the atmosphere. Remember road draft tubes?

The real clue to this is that it started the second year. I bet you have either fuel system components that are allergic to ethanol, or you have a gummed up fuel system. The fact that it dies when you turn the choke off implies it is too lean to continue running after that. You might also have a weighted swinging pickup inside the fuel tank, they usually have a screen that can get clogged with garbage and cause poor running, regardless of how fresh your fuel is.

Good luck, post any findings.

 

[Pop_Rivit]

Originally Posted By: tgrudzin
I even took the carb apart. Looks ok.

It will run with starter fluid directly sprayed and choke closed. Sort of a low idle. Longest I had it was 2 minutes? Un-choke and the engine dies. Spark plug super clean, no fouling.


You just contradicted yourself. If it runs while the starter fluid is being sprayed, then you have carburetor problems. Do more than look at the carb while you have it apart-there are tiny little jets that, when clogged, will cause the exact issue you're seeing.

 

[Brybo86]

Take a pair of pliers and pull a few bristles out of your BBQ brush. These are perfect for cleaning carb jets.
Take the carb off again.
Clean all the tiny passages with the BBQ bristle.
Blow carb cleaner into them with the plastic nozzle sealed as best you can, compressed air helps also, or your mouth.

 

[Trav]

Put a good splash of Berrymans chemtool in the gas, get it started then let it sit overnight and give it a shot.

 

[The_Jeff]

Find the governor for the carb, it's the little rod with the spring on it, usually.

Start it on starter fluid, no choke, keep spritzing starter fluid occasionally. But put your finger in there to keep it at wide open throttle and make 'er scream like never before.

Sometimes this vacuum is enough to suck the loogie through the carb and get everything cool again.

 

[CT8]

Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Originally Posted By: tgrudzin
I even took the carb apart. Looks ok.

It will run with starter fluid directly sprayed and choke closed. Sort of a low idle. Longest I had it was 2 minutes? Un-choke and the engine dies. Spark plug super clean, no fouling.


You just contradicted yourself. If it runs while the starter fluid is being sprayed, then you have carburetor problems. Do more than look at the carb while you have it apart-there are tiny little jets that, when clogged, will cause the exact issue you're seeing.
THIS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Warstud]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Put a good splash of Berrymans chemtool in the gas, get it started then let it sit overnight and give it a shot.


This ^^^^
Or you can also run it on choke after adding a fuel system cleaner for about 5 minutes then take it off choke to see if it stays running. Keep doing that until it starts running normally.

 

[bubbatime]

Model number or engine type would surely help us, strangers, diagnose a problem via the internet.

Using the Sears parts schematics, find the part number for the carburetor. Google that part number. Often, you can get a brand new carb, depending on engine, for under $20, and sometimes under $10, on eBay or Amazon or other sites. If that's the case, just replace the carb and stop dicking with it.

Then run non-ethanol fuel in it from now if you can get it WITH a double dose of Stabil fuel stabilizer.