Rotors: Replace or Turn Down?

[Kruse]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8


Personally I would trust a used rotor properly turned over a brand new one in a box...


I'm somewhat surprised at the responses also. I really think it's a "it depends" type of situation. If you have a rotor that starts out with very little meat, you obviously can't (or at least shouldn't) have it turned.
If you have a rotor, especially an older rotor, that has plenty of material left in it, go ahead and turn it, provided that the person turning it knows exactly what he is doing. I still have an older Aerostar that is just too practical to get rid of. While I do all my own wrench-turning, I had a sudden front wheel bearing failure on it that took out the rotor and had to have an indy shop replace it. Thanks to his excessive tightening of the lug nuts, I had pad pulsation within a week. I had no problem turning this rotor. After all, the van gets no hard use and the rotor was brand new. The chance of it ever warping again is now a lot less.

 

[stephen9666]

Originally Posted By: Rylan
I'm a little surprised at these responses...

Are we really changing out rotors with the first brake pad replacement? Now I know you should not skip out when it comes to brakes, but that is wrong.

If it falls withing spec, I trust the factory rotors for at least one resurface. I keep 'em if there's no excessive rust, even wear, smooth surface, flat hub plate, spec'd thickness/runout.
Rotor lifetime also varies on pad type, vehicle weight, driving habits, racing, etc. If I need a new set, it's factory or OEM (Honda/Acura/NISSIN, Toyota/AISIN, Hyundai/Kia/AUTO7, Ford/MOTORCRAFT, GM/ACDELCO, etc.)

If the rotor doesn't need resurfacing, I usually clean up the disc surface by sanding the surface lightly by hand, or recently I was introduced to the Flex-Hone resurfacing bit for hand drills. I've been "borrowing" a friend's for cleaning up all my rotors and flywheels.

Re-read the origninal post. The OP says the rotors have rust on the surface and uneven wear probably from rusty brackets causing the pads to hang up.

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8

Turning rotors is simple, but has many opportunities to disappoint you. If done properly (a big 'if) it should yield a better than new finish and equal to new life. Since almost any rotor has the minimum thickness stamped right on it there is no guesswork required.

Personally I would trust a used rotor properly turned over a brand new one in a box...

As you mention, it's a toss up if you'll find a place to turn a rotor for a reasonable price. Then you have to wonder if they can do it properly. When I did all four corners on my Hyundai the rear rotors had very uneven wear and lots of rust. The only places that still turn rotors were a couple chain auto parts stores and they wanted only a few dollars less than a set of new rotors.

So, the hassle, cost and uncertainty about the quality of work makes it not worth it for some of us to turn rotors.

 

[CharBaby]

Years ago when steel was U.S. steel, we'd turn down the rotors on vehicles and(AND), the rotors were quite expensive at one time but, extremely well made. Today, the rotors are kind'a "throw-a-way" and if I have to remove'em to turn'em, I'm just going to replace'em.

 

[artificialist]

Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Years ago when steel was U.S. steel, we'd turn down the rotors on vehicles and(AND), the rotors were quite expensive at one time but, extremely well made. Today, the rotors are kind'a "throw-a-way" and if I have to remove'em to turn'em, I'm just going to replace'em.

Back then, even if they weren't made of American metal, they could easily get expensive.

I remember my father telling me how when his '87 Hyundai Excel needed rotors early in its life, they were expensive. Also, when his rotors were measured, they were below the minimum, anyway, so he was stuck paying a high price for a cheap car.

 

[CharBaby]

Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Years ago when steel was U.S. steel, we'd turn down the rotors on vehicles and(AND), the rotors were quite expensive at one time but, extremely well made. Today, the rotors are kind'a "throw-a-way" and if I have to remove'em to turn'em, I'm just going to replace'em.

Back then, even if they weren't made of American metal, they could easily get expensive.

I remember my father telling me how when his '87 Hyundai Excel needed rotors early in its life, they were expensive. Also, when his rotors were measured, they were below the minimum, anyway, so he was stuck paying a high price for a cheap car.


I would amagine that import rotors can often be expensive. I was buying rotors on the cheap in the 80's for Honda's.

I was kind'a refering to the 60's & 70's where rotors could cost as much then as they do today...$50, $60, $80 per rotor...Back then!

This would have been for the daily driver domestic family sedan/wagon(those with front disks). Keep in mind that some cars still had front drums(coming out of the 60's) in the time I speak of!

 

[Eddie]

If the rotors have sufficient thickness AND you have a place the has a real rotor lathe, which cuts both sides at the same time, then I would turn them. This especially if one only needs a clean up. Some think that a rotor that has been heat seasoned is has a better chance at not warping than a new cheap rotor. I'm from this Ick. Ed

 

[buck91]

At this point I doubt there is anything new to add but I will put my $0.02 in.

Historically I've been a proponent of rotor replacement instead of "turning" but that can depend on how worn the rotors are. For example the rotors on my truck were a little uneven with some brake vibrations but otherwise were practically new (almost no wear). I took those in to Napa and had them turned down.

Now if the rotors are worn, or are grooved and/or require a significant amount of material removal to smooth out you may want to consider replacement. Most shops which turn rotors will be able to advise you on the condition of yours. And turning is typically MUCH cheaper than a quality replacement rotor.

 

[asand1]

If they have gone metal to metal I replace the rotors, if not I just break the glaze with my disc sander.

 

[Donald]

If you have any kind of pedal pulsation the rotors need to be turned or replaced. You should not just break the glaze.

 

[Zako2]

Originally Posted By: Rylan
I'm a little surprised at these responses...

Are we really changing out rotors with the first brake pad replacement? Now I know you should not skip out when it comes to brakes, but that is wrong.



It depends on the brake pads. Some OEM brake pads that are designed for longevity rather than best stopping power can last 70-90,000 miles. When you replace them, the rotors are often already spent.

My personal preference is always to replace the rotors with the brake pads. In my experience, even if the rotors may be fine at the time of the first brake pad replacement, they will be completely shot by the time the second set of brake pads wears out. It's often revealed by extremely weak brake action in wet, thick outer lip on the rotor, or uneven rotor surface with deep groves which you can feel by touching. So, about half life of the second set of brake pads, you're driving with substandard rotors. Who knows, maybe the original rotors would have continued working fine if they got resurfaced after the first brake pad replacement.