Rotella T6 No Smoke Additive?

[landtoy80]

My Land Cruiser with 394,000 miles has had startup smoke for the last 100,000+ miles.
The I use to use the older Rotella T 5w40 and it smoked at startup after about 50,000 mi. Tried several other brands of oil and the only one that stopped the startup smoke with Lubro-Moly MoS2 Anti-Friction Super Motor Oil with a can of their Oil Saver. BUt startup smoke start up again after 4000-5000 miles on the oil and additive. Add another can and the smoke stopped again. (The can is good for 3 to 4 liters and my motor holds 8 qts so maybe I should of added 2 cans).

Anyhow after switching to T6 I have not have any startup smoke. I am on my second oil change. First oil change was at about 5000 miles/ 6 months. My consumption is about 1 qt for 1000 miles. My consumption at 225,000 miles was 1qt/3000 mi and has slowly worked its way to current consumption. Its still in spec with Toyota new car oil consumption of 1qt/1000 as it has been told to me by a dealer.

Is there something in the oil that reduces the smoke or in my case stops it?

 

[Donald]

I assume its blueish smoke, not black?

Smoke at startup is usually valve stem seals. If you have never done anything with them they have probably cracked apart and are not doing much.

Its a pretty cheap fix to have them replaced. And you will get the valves adjusted at the same time.

 

[landtoy80]

Valve stem seals is not an easy fix on the Land Cruiser motor. You have to pull the head to get to them.

I am sure its the valve stem seals that are leaking just wonder why I dont get smoke with T6?

 

[Quest]

with that kind of mileage, I'd cut to the chase and replace all the valve stem seals before moving further.

No use dwelling on magical elixirs and additives when your seals are completely hardened like rock, only brittle.

Q.

 

[oldhp]

394,000 miles, Wow. If T6 fixes the smoke, done deal. "You can't fix it, if it ain't broke".
New seals would be ideal if you didn't have to pull the head. Run it to 500,000 and see how it's doing!!!

 

[Chris142]

That little bit of oil getting past the seals may be increasing engine life.

 

[Clevy]

Mos2 leaves a layer behind. Once it wears off the smoking will come back.
Use the mos2 and motor oil saver as directed.
Motor oil saver helps soften anything rubber.and contains esters which we all know of their benefits in oil.
Use both. Once treated use the motor oil saver every second oil change and half dose mos2.

 

[951Indy]

Do you really have to pull the head to replace stem seals?

That didn't come out right...

You could use some rope or air compressor fitting in plug hole and swap them out on the vehicle. It sounds like work, but it should only take a couple of hours.

 

[landtoy80]

I used the Motor Oil Saver per Liqui Moly USA suggestions at 1 can for 8 qts. I have not had any Motor Oil Saver for 7-8 months. The combo of MoS2 oil with Motor Oil Saver was too thick for winter use thus the reason I tried T6. There should be no Motor Oil Saver left in the motor at this time but I still have no smoke at startup.

Either the Motor Oil Saver did its work on the valve stem seals and softened them up OR there is something in the T6 oil to reduce burning oil smoke.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: landtoy80
I used the Motor Oil Saver per Liqui Moly USA suggestions at 1 can for 8 qts. I have not had any Motor Oil Saver for 7-8 months. The combo of MoS2 oil with Motor Oil Saver was too thick for winter use thus the reason I tried T6. There should be no Motor Oil Saver left in the motor at this time but I still have no smoke at startup.

Either the Motor Oil Saver did its work on the valve stem seals and softened them up OR there is something in the T6 oil to reduce burning oil smoke.



There is nothing in T-6 that will soften or affect any type of seal.
I can of motor oil saver in 8 quarts of oil won't affect viscosity in any measurable way,and iirc I can is enough to treat 4.5-5 litres of oil.
Even 2 cans into 8 quarts would barely affect viscosity in any measurable way and even if it was measurable it would be at start up when it was cold.
I'd keep using motor oil saver,just 1 can in your sump at every oil change as well as mos2. Otherwise if the burning re-appears it will take as long as it did last time to fix it,if its even possible to do again.
If it worked for you last time I'd just keep using it. If you truly believe that MOS affected the oils viscosity go a grade thinner,then add 2 cans since the can specifies it treats 4.5-5 litres of oil.
I've never seen any evidence that motor oil saver thickens the oil in any measurable amount,although common sense leads one to believe it might considering how thick it is but once mixed I doubt it would be noticeable,and in my years of using it I've never noticed it being thicker.
If it was the valve guides I'm betting it was the mos2 that hoped the issue,and I would keep using it.
The can of mos2 says its good for 6 litres of oil,so roughly a cn and a half would be required in your very large sump.
I added 1.5 cans to my charger last weekend.

 

[landtoy80]

When I got my Land Cruiser with 207,000 miles I had oil leaking from the oil pan and seeping from two other places. After 2 to 3 oil changes with the old Rotella T 5w40 all the oil leaks and seeps were sealed up and still are not leaking. The leak on the oil pan at the arch was a slow flowing leak and its dry still to this date 395,000 mi. Something in the old T oil did something to the gaskets??? The only leak it didn't stop was one that had a rubber gasket that was dried and cracked when I replaced it.


8 qts of MoS2 Antifriction Motoroil 10 W-40 and one can of Motor Oil Saver was made the oil too thick enough to make it hard to turn over the motor when it got into the teens or colder. T6 5w40 cranks just fine in winter in all temps. I dont think there is a thinner MoS2 Antifriction Motoroil than 10 W-40.

I have not tried the additive MoS2, it was already in the oil LM MoS2 Antifriction Motoroil 10 W-40.

Are you saying I should add MoS2 and Motor Oil Saver to T6?

What I find strange is that when the oil (MoS2 Antifriction Motoroil 10 W-40 + Motor Oil Saver) got about 5000 miles the start up smoke would return unless I added another can of Motor Oil Saver. Where as there is no MoS2 or Motor Oil Saver in the T6 and there is no start up smoke.

When I did use the MoS2 Antifriction Motoroil 10 W-40 + Motor Oil Saver I could tell when the Motor Oil Saver was thinning out or wearing out. With the Motor Oil Saver in the oil and the motor cold, there would be tacky oil high up on the dip stick. Over time the oil would get less tacky and would not climb up the dip stick. When this happened my start up smoke would return until I added another can of Motor Oil Saver. My guess it that the same affect would happen to the valve guides where the tacky oil would prevent the oil from working its way past the guilds. That doesn't explain why the T6 doesn't smoke other than maybe the MoS2 and Motor Oil Saver cleaned out the valve guilds and the synthetic oil of the T6 swelled the seal like the T did to my seal years ago, just guessing.

 

[Fraser434]

Call [censored] if you like.

I worked at a race shop, we'd see [censored] built oil burner motors. People would use synthetic oil, burn off 2 qt every 1000 miles, say they didn't see any smoke.

Synthetic oil doesn't burn blue

I know T6 isn't a "true" synthetic.

 

[Clevy]

10w-40 is already thick at start up. Adding motor oil saver to 8 quarts of oil just doesn't seem like enough to do anything.
The easier starting is easily explained because the t-6 is thinner at start up.
I am suggesting to add motor oil saver and the mos2 additive to your current oil but not both at once. At one,monitor,then add the other a few weeks later.