Rotella T6 for OPE?

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Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
Originally Posted By: TFB1
I have one that's maybe 12 years old that runs without a air cleaner, haven't added any oil in the last couple years...

Mine has a Tecumseh 4.5 HP motor. The dipstick / fill cap calls for SAE 30. Are we talking about the same piece of equipment?

Sure sounds like it... Mine also has the 4.5Hp Tecumseh and chipper at a angle on it's right side... I bought mine slightly used at a yard sale approx 10 years ago... As for oil, I can't say what is specked,... For most of my OPE I generally grab whatever 10/15w30/40 that's on hand and dump it in... My now Honda powered Snapper with Mobil 1 0W-40 is the lone exception...

I have a 4.5Hp Briggs and another with whatever torque spec(if that one will run, I think flywheel has slipped, neighbor hit a iron pipe) I'd stick on it if crank matched but I suspect it has some type propitiatory crank mount...
 
Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
Originally Posted By: TFB1
I have one that's maybe 12 years old that runs without a air cleaner, haven't added any oil in the last couple years...

Mine has a Tecumseh 4.5 HP motor. The dipstick / fill cap calls for SAE 30. Are we talking about the same piece of equipment?

I did some branch chipping with this machine today, changed the oil to Rotella T6, then did a little more chipping. The oil already appears a little dirty, probably as a result of mixing with the residual oil. I might just dump this oil out after the next run and then keep a close eye on how fast the fresh oil turns black during leaf season.


I'd try Rotella T 15w40 in that Tecumseh. We had a push mower with a Tecumseh 4.5 and it ran great but burned some oil. Adding the Rotella 15w40 helped with the consumption.
 
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071

I'd try Rotella T 15w40 in that Tecumseh. We had a push mower with a Tecumseh 4.5 and it ran great but burned some oil. Adding the Rotella 15w40 helped with the consumption.


Yep and that's exactly what I did, though used Delo left over I bought for a truck I sold almost three years ago(also working to get rid of some of the odd partials around here)...

The cap & stick on mine say 30W, no mention of multi-vis... I figure it's stupid and as long as it has oil, it'll be happy(no idea what was in it)...
 
I put the 5w40 Rotella T6 in mine and noticed that it now starts on the first pull when cold. It hasn't been run long enough to see any impact on oil consumption, but that day is coming soon.
 
Just sold my Troy Bilt 22hp B&S lawn tractor,because of axle failure.
Intec engine had 1200
hours on it.
it has had a oil change at 10 hours with Amsoil 15w40,and change every 100 hours
since new with heavy duty 15w40 diesel marine oil.
It still ran like a clock when I sold it.It was a 2004 whith an Intec engine.
I recently bought a 24hp platinum GT 500 garden tractor from Sears.
Changed the oil at 5 hours with Amsoil hd diesel and marine 15w40,and an Fram Ultra filter.
My daughter bought me a Champion 4000..3000 generator,ran it for 2 hours
with a 1500 watt heater.Changed oil with 15w40 Ams oil HD diesel and marine oil.

gouda
 
The Champion 3500/4000 watt generator received its annual "no use" service today. Mobil 1 10w30 came out looking almost like new since there was no prolonged heavy load use this season. Rotella T6 5w40 went in. The owner's manual calls for 10w30 as the all-around oil, 5w30 for below zero degrees F and 10w40 above 70 degrees F. The T6 should cover all of the bases. We'll see how she runs when the lights go out or on an exercise run early next year.
 
I have a couple of these. Cheap,effective.
I use conventional oil at 100 hour intervals with 15w40 in summer and 5w30 in winter. Super tech pails
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
I have a couple of these. Cheap,effective.
I use conventional oil at 100 hour intervals with 15w40 in summer and 5w30 in winter. Super tech pails

I hear ya there. This unit has never seen more than 40 hours of use in a season, and with a 20 ounce fill, the cost of oil is inconsequential. That extra $2 per year is worth every penny in terms of the peace of mind it brings.

I keep a piston and what's left of rod in my tool chest just to remind myself of what can happen. Was it the oil? Don't know and don't care. All I know is that it won't be the oil next time.
 
I am beyond buying syns for my equipment.
I go thru 2 5 gallon pails every 2 werks(100hrs) changing oil in my 16 air compressors and 6 generators.
Synthetic oils don't protect engines any better than conventionals do. They simply last longer in service.
In fact if one looks at the used oil analysis we've got posted at bitog there is a strong argument that conventionals actually contribute to less wear if one looks at the wear metals when costing syns to mineral oil.
And conventionals don't wear out with time. They don't have a watch. They don't know how long they've sat in an engine. Hours are what matter.
So it's false security believing a syn will protect better than a conventional especially with a yearly change.
Spend more money for no gain. That makes 0 sense.
I have 2 air compressors that I bought when I first came back to sask and started this particular company. Those 2 originals easily have 18000 hours on the original engine. Only oil changes and mos2 every second oci using conventional oils.
They are Honda 5.5 hp gx engines.
So if there is some benefit by paying more for oil I'm not seeing it.
If you are going to continue using a synthetic extend the interval. Get your money's worth from the added expense.
A fool and his money......
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
I am beyond buying syns for my equipment.
I go thru 2 5 gallon pails every 2 werks(100hrs) changing oil in my 16 air compressors and 6 generators.
Synthetic oils don't protect engines any better than conventionals do. They simply last longer in service.

We have completely different scenarios, my friend. All of my OPE get one and only one annual oil change. Those oil changes amount to a total of 6 quarts per year. Even if I am spending an extra $3/qt. the difference would come to less that $20/year. I'll gladly spend that for the accompanying peace of mind. According to your figures it would be $60 per week, so I see your point and would not spend the extra money in a business application. That $60 will get you a whole lot further if applied to a round of beers for the crew every Friday night.
 
Originally Posted By: pheasanthunter66
I have Rotella T6 in my Kawasaki on my walk behind. Seems to be working great! Thinking about putting it in my welder but I haven't decided yet.

I've put it in the Champion generator and Craftsman leaf vacuum thus far, and may put it in the vintage Troy-Bilt rototiller next. The latter has just turned thirty and features a 5 HP B&S engine spec'd for SAE 30.
 
Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
Originally Posted By: pheasanthunter66
I have Rotella T6 in my Kawasaki on my walk behind. Seems to be working great! Thinking about putting it in my welder but I haven't decided yet.

I've put it in the Champion generator and Craftsman leaf vacuum thus far, and may put it in the vintage Troy-Bilt rototiller next. The latter has just turned thirty and features a 5 HP B&S engine spec'd for SAE 30.


My early 80's troy-bilt had the 8 hp briggs and 10w-40 is one of the recommended oils in the manual.
 
Originally Posted By: TFB1
That's a engine with worn piston rings plain and simple... It's burning oil and the blowby is scorching the oil, causing it to darken... Time for some 20W-50 but I doubt it will be much help...


Leaf season is just starting and I ran the Craftsman Chipper/Vac for at least an hour last weekend using the fresh Rotella T6 5w40. Thus far it is starting more easily, burning less oil, and the oil isn't turning pure black like it did with the conventional SAE 30 oil. It's way too early in the season to draw any conclusions from these observations, but the signs are definitely positive.
 
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