So far I have been running Rotella T Synthetic 5w40 in my 1990 Honda CBR 600F1. From reading this oil seems to be very robust and after 1300 miles it seems to be holding up well. It seems like all oil ran in a motorcycle will shear down faster then an automobile due to the transmission. I've seen used oil analysis of Amsoil, the supposed best synthetic oil shear down to 30 weights. My question is, which brand of Rotella would be less likely to shear down in my CBR. Synthetic is suppose to be more shear proof from my reading but I'm not really sure. The only reason I chose to run synthetic was because I never ran synthetic in any of my vehicles before I bought my CBR this summer and thought it was a better oil. I'll admit, I do tend to be an aggresive on the engine but I guess sportbikes are built for the abuse. I'm always thinking about trying out the Amsoil and Mobil bike oil but if Rotella can handle my heavy throttle I want to stick with it.
Rotella 5W or 15W?
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The following link is preferred oil used by the Ninja 250 group:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Preferred_Brands
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Preferred_Brands
I run the Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5w40 in my 04 750 Shadow with a Wix Gold filter
I have used the M1 mx4t(now called racing 4T) in my 2002 Ninja zx9r and then swapped to rotella syn. The hdeo's have robust additive packs and do an excellent job of cleaning and lubing. It is certainly A LOT cheaper than the boutique motorcycle oils. From what I have read and heard, amsoil, maxima, motul are very good oils and probably well worth it. I ran exxon superflo 20W50 for 1000 miles and have put in the rotella syn for fall/winter. I got 12qrts of valvoline synpower 20w50 and got a case of brad penn 20/50 to run in the hotter months.
-I would like to try the M1 v twin 20W50 but is kinda hard to swallow the $9 quart. 4 quarts=$32. I can get 4 gallons (16 quarts)of the rotella 15w40 for that.
-I would have no problems running the syn rotella year round and had every intention of doing so after finding the shell rotella forum then found this site and now I want to try all the different ones.
-It is my understanding that the rotella triple protection 15W40 is the more shear resistant of the two. I have run that as well and also in my dirtbike with no problems.
-I would like to try the M1 v twin 20W50 but is kinda hard to swallow the $9 quart. 4 quarts=$32. I can get 4 gallons (16 quarts)of the rotella 15w40 for that.
-I would have no problems running the syn rotella year round and had every intention of doing so after finding the shell rotella forum then found this site and now I want to try all the different ones.
-It is my understanding that the rotella triple protection 15W40 is the more shear resistant of the two. I have run that as well and also in my dirtbike with no problems.
I went back and re-read all the FAQ items on the Shell website having to do with change intervals and synthetic oil. Shell is a bit cagey on this score ... they seem really uncomfortable about recommending extended change intervals beyond the manufacturer's recommended.
In theory the synthetic *should* provided for greater shear protection. But how much is really going to depend on your bike and your riding habits.
The best thing is to run a series of controlled mileage tests with oil analysis. That'll give you a sense for a solid "safe" interval and the outlying range of the oil.
I ran the 15w40 Triple Protection in my Goldwing for 2700 miles and it sheared down to *just* inside the lower margin of a 40 weight. Based on that, I'm pretty comfortable with the 15w40 for my Wing for 3K intervals. For $9/gallon it's hardly worth worrying about extended intervals ... for me, changing oil is sort of fun, so I'm not looking to avoid it.
I've not given much thought or research to the question of shear protection because I don't really intend to go extended intervals. I wish I could offer something more insightful, but this is an area I'm a little uncertain about.
That said, there's more than a few on this site that feel that given the cost of Rotella T conventional ($9/gallon at Wal-Mart), you can change the darn stuff pretty frequently and *still* make out for less cost than the more expensive boutique oils. Amsoil is *about* $9/quart, or about four times as expensive as Rotella 15w40. I know the 15w40 will go about 3K miles in my Wing. That means I'd have to go 12K on Amsoil to be equivalent in cost -- not including the cost of filters ... whether to change filters every 3K or not is a different discussion. I'm personally not comfortable going 12K on any oil, thought Amsoil might well do it just fine. So for ME, the Rotella looks to be the better way to go.
Again, just personal preference here.
In theory the synthetic *should* provided for greater shear protection. But how much is really going to depend on your bike and your riding habits.
The best thing is to run a series of controlled mileage tests with oil analysis. That'll give you a sense for a solid "safe" interval and the outlying range of the oil.
I ran the 15w40 Triple Protection in my Goldwing for 2700 miles and it sheared down to *just* inside the lower margin of a 40 weight. Based on that, I'm pretty comfortable with the 15w40 for my Wing for 3K intervals. For $9/gallon it's hardly worth worrying about extended intervals ... for me, changing oil is sort of fun, so I'm not looking to avoid it.
I've not given much thought or research to the question of shear protection because I don't really intend to go extended intervals. I wish I could offer something more insightful, but this is an area I'm a little uncertain about.
That said, there's more than a few on this site that feel that given the cost of Rotella T conventional ($9/gallon at Wal-Mart), you can change the darn stuff pretty frequently and *still* make out for less cost than the more expensive boutique oils. Amsoil is *about* $9/quart, or about four times as expensive as Rotella 15w40. I know the 15w40 will go about 3K miles in my Wing. That means I'd have to go 12K on Amsoil to be equivalent in cost -- not including the cost of filters ... whether to change filters every 3K or not is a different discussion. I'm personally not comfortable going 12K on any oil, thought Amsoil might well do it just fine. So for ME, the Rotella looks to be the better way to go.
Again, just personal preference here.
So it seems like you are recommending the conventional brand over the synthetic? I always thought the further away the two numbers were in the weight of the oil, the easier it was for that oil to shear down. I suppose the only reason I chose to run synthetic was because I have never used it and I just wanted to feel comfortable knowing my CBR motor was getting the supreme protection of a synthetic oil.
Speaking only for myself here ... the new 15w40 Triple Protection is really good oil at a really good price. That's the basis for what you sense is my preference.
I'm of the school of thought that believes decent oil changed frequently is better than expensive superior oil run a long, long time.
I don't think that applies as much to synthetic as it does to conventional. That's one of the advantages of synthetic -- they're able to achieve a good cold-flow property while still maintaining a decent shear stability.
If you read the FAQ articles over at the Shell Rotella website, they stress the cold flow properties of the synthetic far more than the ability to extend the change interval.
Synthetic is good oil. Some on this site swear by it, others are less enthusiastic. It costs more, but it has certain properties -- cold flow, higher flash point, extended change intervals -- that some like and are willing to pay for.
I think I'm on safe ground saying this: for at least some period of time while the oil is fresh, good oil is good oil. The difference between, say, Rotella T dino vs. Rotella T synthetic is negligible -- both will provide terrific protection for the engine. Beyond a certain point the synthetic may separate itself from the dino in terms of viscosity retention. But as Fuel Tanker Man says, the key is not the viscosity alone, or TBN alone, but the OVERALL state of the oil -- viscosity, presence of wear metals, percentage of fuel, TBN, etc. I tend to agree with him. That's why I'm very reluctant to go 16,000 miles on Amsoil (as they claim I should be able to -- 2X the Mfg. change interval of 8K for Honda) without doing some oil analysis somewhere in the middle of the 16K to make sure the oil isn't contaminated.
I'd strongly recommend you try an analysis. Pick and oil and pick a number of miles. Tap some oil out of it (4oz or 8oz, I can't recall) and have it analyzed. If it comes back strong -- low wear metals, viscosity holding, TBN strong -- then keep going and try it again later. That's the best way to get the peace of mind.
Marketing slogans on the sides of the jugs -- Amsoil as well as Shell; they all hype stuff -- is fine, but the truth is in the numbers.
But, on the other hand, if you'd like the peace of mind knowing you're running a "premium motorcycle oil," then you can go wit Amsoil or Mobil 1 ... they're both very good oils. Expensive, but good. Worth the price because the oil is so much better than other oils? Ah ... that's the debate. Many here don't think so.
You might want to take a look at the analysis done on the 5w-40 at 5242 miles, this is in my 2005 GL1800, it's holding up quite well.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...ge=0#Post979722
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...ge=0#Post979722
The 15W is ideal IMO. Not many people would ride a bike when the cold flow properties of a 5W are needed. Also, with the more frequent OCI of most motorcycles a conventional will be fine.
I think the best way to choose is to go by how many miles a person will average a year, if they are only riding 2,000 to say 4,000 miles a year the regular 15w40 might be the better choice, but if someone rides 5,000 or more miles per year, the 5w-40 might be the better choice.
Since there are contamination issues related to fluid use in a bike, that is unrelated to the actual fluid properties, extended drains for a motorcycle can be counter-productive.
Extd. OCI's in a racing bike shouldn't even be considered.
Of course, that is just my opinion.
Extd. OCI's in a racing bike shouldn't even be considered.
Of course, that is just my opinion.
We're running the Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 in a FJR1300, a CBR1000RR, a YZF-R6 and a new Gold Wing GL1800.
The oil analysis reports between the 5W-40 and our previous 15w40 are fairly close for 3,000 mile change intervals. We went to 4,000 with the 5W-40 with virtually no difference. It does seem that the Gold Wing shifts easier and smoother on the 5W-40 .vs. the 15w40.
If you ride a lot in cooler weather the 5W-40 might be a little better on startup, or if you want longer oil change intervals. If you're changing at 3,000 then the 15w40 is a great oil.
Really.
The oil analysis reports between the 5W-40 and our previous 15w40 are fairly close for 3,000 mile change intervals. We went to 4,000 with the 5W-40 with virtually no difference. It does seem that the Gold Wing shifts easier and smoother on the 5W-40 .vs. the 15w40.
If you ride a lot in cooler weather the 5W-40 might be a little better on startup, or if you want longer oil change intervals. If you're changing at 3,000 then the 15w40 is a great oil.
Really.
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