Roll-on Rust Converter Product

[Hokiefyd]

Hey everyone,

I have a 5x8 open bed utility trailer with expanded metal mesh sides, floor, and gate. The whole thing is quite rusty...I've sort of been able to keep up with the tubular and angle iron rails because they're easy to sand and touch up. But the expanded metal floor and sides has a TON of surface area, and it's not practical to try to sand and paint that.

I'm looking for a product that is supposed to convert and seal rust. From my muscle car days, the beginning and ending of this discussion was POR-15 (although I'm not sure it's a converter as much as a permanent sealer). I'm sure there are a slew of good products out there today. I have some criteria, and in this order of importance:

1) Roll-on (vs. aerosol). Due to the nature of this application, I find that I waste a TON of product trying to spray something on. Expanded metal is like a very loose screen -- there's much more hole than grid. I think a roll-on product will be far less wasteful. Cosmetics (runs in the finish or brush marks, etc) are not critical.

2) Something that will convert and seal in one step is highly preferred. Again, the expanded metal material makes mechanical rust removal pretty impractical (beyond expensive sand blasting).

3) Inexpensive. It's a utility trailer, so it doesn't much matter if the finished surface is smooth, eggshell, flat, rough, etc. I just want it to be protected from the elements.

4) I'd prefer to be able to buy something locally (Home Depot, Lowes, etc) rather than mail-order it.

I see that the big-box stores have a number of different products like this, but I'm hoping for some first-hand experience and opinions.

Thanks in advance.

 

[old1]

personally I would use Rust Oleum rusty metal primer, and then top coat for durability. I have used it with success on pickup and other trailer boxes. Cheap and available everywhere

 

[Kira]

IIRC Rustoleum Rust Reformer comes in cans. Use a brush.
It might be a little more time consuming but these treatments are not cheap. It dries to a primer.
I recommend a coat of paint because a good, utility paint will stand up better than a primer. Your desire for a ONE COAT solution is understandable but not realistic.

Remember there are no primer-as-paint products. A product can do one job well or two less well.
To carry it to the next level, RRR chemically stops rust and dries to a primer. Asking it to do a third job would be unreasonable.

Oh, I've used the stuff with success.

 

[JC1]

I've never used this, but the guys on Spike TV claim it's pretty good.

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-75430-Extend-Treatment-Drying/dp/B001HWA8WU

 

[doitmyself]

Hokiefyd,

Here's a discussion and some links to recent trials. I have had mediocre results with rust converters. I had one or two examples of fish oil based Rustoleum rusty metal primer actually working very well on rusty metal. A couple of data points doesn't mean much.

Enjoy: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3763474/New_Rust_Converter_Research_Re

Anything you put on a trailer floor will get scraped up in use.

 

[wrcsixeight]

Ospho is by far the best rust converter I've used.

Super thin, it really penetrates rust, and turns it black and paint then adheres to it extremely well. I sometimes apply it using an old spray bottle.

But do not let moisture condense on it, Do wait the 24 hours unless you sit there with a heat gun to speed the chemical reaction, and any white powder residue that rises to the surface, left after 24 hours must be wiped off/ brushed off before painting.

My biggest complaint with the product is I can go back to the blackened paintable rust with a chisel, scrape off the black and reveal more grey steel or brown rust below, and I reapply more oshpo, telling myself that I will just paint it, but then I go a bit further again with the chisel and a Scotchbrite pad to get more bare steel to show where rust once did. Purely anal retentiveness

Ospho is sold in Many Ace Hardware stores for about 15$ a quart

 

[DrRoughneck]

In general, is the active ingredient of rust converters anything else than phosphoric acid?

 

[wrcsixeight]

Quote:
SKYCO OSPHO: a balanced formula of Phosphoric, Dichromate, Wetting Agents and Extenders . . . compounded exclusively by the Skybryte Company since 1947 ... recommended by paint manufacturers.


Hopefully one of the resident chemists sees this thread and chimes in, cause all I can do is quote marketing material.

 

[Hokiefyd]

To address a few comments and questions...

Anything that dries to a primer is fine. By "one product", I meant something that converts the rust without the need to mechanically abrade it down to bear metal. If I essentially end up with a layer of primer, then that's great.

My plan is to treat the whole thing and, once the rust is converted, seal with something like a truck bed roll-on or rubberized underseal that I can simply spray again for touch up (without having to deal with rust coming back through). For the floor, I plan to lay 5/4 decking on top of it (and bolt through with carriage bolts and fender washers). That'll ensure that everything's protected and will add a durable wear surface that can be roughed-up without worry. It'll also allow me to carry bulk materials (mulch, soil, etc) in it, which I can't do now because of the extruded metal floor.

Rustoleum's Rusty Metal Primer:

http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/rusty-metal-primer/

Looks to be oil-based. Are there any inherent advantages (or disadvantages) to using an oil-based paint in an application like this? As posted earlier, it is inexpensive and available everywhere. What I've been using so far is water-based aerosols.

http://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/7769730.pdf

 

[buck91]

I've used both Rustoleum rust reformer as well as POR15 (in the three step process). Both work pretty well if you prep decently. If you have much more than LIGHT rust I would lean towards a proper 3-step POR15 application if you want it to last. Keep in mind you should top coat it with a UV resistant primer for this type of application.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Parts the trailer look rusty, but the trailer seems to be made out of good steel, and it's pretty much just cosmetic rust (just lots of it). The metal is very sound still.

I think I will use either Rustoleum's Rusty Metal Primer or Rust Reformer as a base, and then think about something like a roll-on or spray-on bedliner material as a top coat. That should treat and seal everything pretty well.

This'll be for the trailer frame and everything above it. I'll consider the same for the suspension and the axle, though I think there's only so much I'll be able to do with things like the leaf springs.

 

[Hokiefyd]

For what it's worth, I called Rustoleum and spoke with a friendly customer service agent. I told her my situation and asked what the difference is between the Rust Reformer and the Rusty Metal Primer. She said that the Rust Reformer has tannic acid that works only with exposure to rust, and that it wouldn't really work well with a mixture of paint and rust (like I have on the trailer). She said that the Rust Reformer is appropriate if you have a surface that is 100% rusted over. She recommended the Rusty Metal Primer, and that's what I'll use.

I'll start with a pint to brush/roll most of it, and also an aerosol can to get into the harder to reach areas. Fortunately, the Rusty Metal Primer is available in both formats, so the product will be consistent across the whole trailer. I'll take pictures and post them.

I've yet to decide on the top coat. Probably something like Rustoleum's Truck Bed Coating. That'll be something that I can easily touch up in the future if something gets gouged.

 

[wrcsixeight]

While not a fan of their rattle can longevity, nor their regular enamel, the rustoleum topside marine yacht enamel has impressed me with its adhesion, durability and gloss.

But one can only do one coat in 24 hours.

If my descriptions of Ospho had you believe that it was necessary to abrade down to steel, then my description was poorly written.

All rust converters turn rust black and paintable. I've tried a few different brands and Ospho has by far given the best results.

 

[ryanschillinger]

I was also going to recommend rustoleum rusty metal primer.

 

[Rylan]

I've used POR15 for over ten years with excellent results. More recently, I purchased the 'Rust Encapsulator' product from Eastwood Co. from a local dealer.
It worked great on my car battery tray with light surface rust; it sands, and primes, and painted nicely. Also painted an acid eaten and rusted battery bracket and it's still rust free years later.