Are GT40 heads a real upgrade or is it big time hype? I've found some GT40 heads that are pretty darn cheap to be honest.
Rod/Main/Cam Bearings - Any Quality Differences?
- Thread starter qdeezie
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OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: qdeezie
Are GT40 heads a real upgrade or is it big time hype? I've found some GT40 heads that are pretty darn cheap to be honest.
Depends on what they are replacing.
They are a good upgrade over basically any of the E7 or earlier heads (unless you have some unicorn BOSS 302 heads, which are Cleveland style anyway).
Mine are heavily ported (they match a TFS-R port) however.
Are GT40 heads a real upgrade or is it big time hype? I've found some GT40 heads that are pretty darn cheap to be honest.
Depends on what they are replacing.
They are a good upgrade over basically any of the E7 or earlier heads (unless you have some unicorn BOSS 302 heads, which are Cleveland style anyway).
Mine are heavily ported (they match a TFS-R port) however.
Reason why I was asking about the GT40s was I found an unbelievable deal on a brand new set of pistons that will give me somewhat of a higher compression ratio. I'll be at 9.0:1 instead of 8.2:1 (I think that's what my factory compression is).
The are a replacement set for the type used in the 96 to 01 Explorer 302s and they have coated skirts. So, when I found this, natually I purchased it. They aren't the forged pistons, but I'm ok with that considering the anticipated normal daily driver truck usage.
So now, I'm going to go ahead and take my 92 Bronco roller block and build it.
Also, I'm going to go ahead and upgrade the camshaft to something above stock as well and I wanted a set of heads that flow better than the E7's. It doesn't have to be the absolute bees knees of cylinder heads, but something to help optimize the package I'm putting together.
So, what started as a re-ring job has pretty much changed all because I found a sweet deal on some new pistons. I'll be using ARP bolts for the rods and mains to make sure it all sticks together.
I do have plans for stainless steel shorty headers and aluminum roller rockers in the future, but I want to finalize the build but at this point so I can have it back up and running in the not so distant future.
The are a replacement set for the type used in the 96 to 01 Explorer 302s and they have coated skirts. So, when I found this, natually I purchased it. They aren't the forged pistons, but I'm ok with that considering the anticipated normal daily driver truck usage.
So now, I'm going to go ahead and take my 92 Bronco roller block and build it.
Also, I'm going to go ahead and upgrade the camshaft to something above stock as well and I wanted a set of heads that flow better than the E7's. It doesn't have to be the absolute bees knees of cylinder heads, but something to help optimize the package I'm putting together.
So, what started as a re-ring job has pretty much changed all because I found a sweet deal on some new pistons. I'll be using ARP bolts for the rods and mains to make sure it all sticks together.
I do have plans for stainless steel shorty headers and aluminum roller rockers in the future, but I want to finalize the build but at this point so I can have it back up and running in the not so distant future.
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Well, the 96 and early 97 Explorers had the GT40 heads, so you may be able to find some cheap.
Those with a stock HO camshaft or that Crower I mentioned earlier would work well what you are building. As long as you keep the vacuum within the range that the ECM is expecting, it will run as it is supposed to.
However, keep in mind that a significant upgrade of the induction components can put you past the limits of your injectors. In this sense, that makes the GT40's a logical choice as well, since they came on the Explorer, which also ran 19lb Injectors.
I'm a fan of the HO cam, as you may have noticed BTW
There is a club of Mustang guys that run upgraded heads, intake, exhaust....etc, but retain the stock cam. The cars are real sleepers because they sound bone stock.
Those with a stock HO camshaft or that Crower I mentioned earlier would work well what you are building. As long as you keep the vacuum within the range that the ECM is expecting, it will run as it is supposed to.
However, keep in mind that a significant upgrade of the induction components can put you past the limits of your injectors. In this sense, that makes the GT40's a logical choice as well, since they came on the Explorer, which also ran 19lb Injectors.
I'm a fan of the HO cam, as you may have noticed BTW
the 1990 5.0 was either 9:1 or 9.2:1 (I forget which without cheating) the heads you have are the venerable E7TEs, which can be made to flow.
GT40 is an improvement.
GT40P is an even bigger improvement with lifts under .500 but it adds 2 twists you dont want to deal with.
GT40 is plug an play if you go mass air and will show 20-25hp on the stock cam, into shorty headers.
why are GT40P heads in the exploder? because the v8 in the smaller body forced an exhaust change from heck that required better flow from somewhere else. it kept the exploder v8 from being 150hp.
GT40 is an improvement.
GT40P is an even bigger improvement with lifts under .500 but it adds 2 twists you dont want to deal with.
GT40 is plug an play if you go mass air and will show 20-25hp on the stock cam, into shorty headers.
why are GT40P heads in the exploder? because the v8 in the smaller body forced an exhaust change from heck that required better flow from somewhere else. it kept the exploder v8 from being 150hp.
btw on your roller rockers, you need to get low profile rockers to fit under the valve covers that will fit under the truck intake. Unlike the 'circle port' intake in which there is a spacer for, there is not currently one for the 'rectangle with a warped end' intake used in the trucks.
unless you wanna change a lot of stuff and use a gt40 style intake flipped around and replumb the egr (and wiring for it and the evp) - its a route you do not want.
unless you wanna change a lot of stuff and use a gt40 style intake flipped around and replumb the egr (and wiring for it and the evp) - its a route you do not want.
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Originally Posted By: QuadDriver
the 1990 5.0 was either 9:1 or 9.2:1 (I forget which without cheating) the heads you have are the venerable E7TEs, which can be made to flow.
GT40 is an improvement.
GT40P is an even bigger improvement with lifts under .500 but it adds 2 twists you dont want to deal with.
GT40 is plug an play if you go mass air and will show 20-25hp on the stock cam, into shorty headers.
why are GT40P heads in the exploder? because the v8 in the smaller body forced an exhaust change from heck that required better flow from somewhere else. it kept the exploder v8 from being 150hp.
The GT40P's are a neat head. The smaller exhaust valve and relocated spark plug do mean that they perform slightly better stock-for-stock. Apparently, they are better ported as well.
The big issue with them is header clearance due to the spark plug angle
For roller rockers, the easiest and "guaranteed to work" set to go with are the Cobra 1.7's by Crane (FMS part #). And you gain some lift in the process
I've used those on both my recent 302's.
the 1990 5.0 was either 9:1 or 9.2:1 (I forget which without cheating) the heads you have are the venerable E7TEs, which can be made to flow.
GT40 is an improvement.
GT40P is an even bigger improvement with lifts under .500 but it adds 2 twists you dont want to deal with.
GT40 is plug an play if you go mass air and will show 20-25hp on the stock cam, into shorty headers.
why are GT40P heads in the exploder? because the v8 in the smaller body forced an exhaust change from heck that required better flow from somewhere else. it kept the exploder v8 from being 150hp.
The GT40P's are a neat head. The smaller exhaust valve and relocated spark plug do mean that they perform slightly better stock-for-stock. Apparently, they are better ported as well.
The big issue with them is header clearance due to the spark plug angle
For roller rockers, the easiest and "guaranteed to work" set to go with are the Cobra 1.7's by Crane (FMS part #). And you gain some lift in the process
Silly question about the GT40 heads, but do they use the same spark plugs (Autolite 25/Motorcraft SP450) as the E7 heads or something different? I haven't gotten that far with my research, but I'm assuming it's probably a different spark plug required with these heads. Is that the case?
"P51" headers from FMS. they fit into the stang Y pipe, I need to make a small mod on my truck y pipe, so I retained one from the scrapped truck to test fit on install day, just weld up a sleeve
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SP417's are what they take.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: QuadDriver
"P51" headers from FMS. they fit into the stang Y pipe, I need to make a small mod on my truck y pipe, so I retained one from the scrapped truck to test fit on install day, just weld up a sleeve
Unfortunately, I'm a fan of long-tubes
LOL!
But yes, those are pretty much one of very few options that work with those heads.
"P51" headers from FMS. they fit into the stang Y pipe, I need to make a small mod on my truck y pipe, so I retained one from the scrapped truck to test fit on install day, just weld up a sleeve
Unfortunately, I'm a fan of long-tubes
But yes, those are pretty much one of very few options that work with those heads.
Is there any sort of HP limitation on the Factory Main Bolts?
I am seriously consider reusing them.
The ARP Main Bolt kit doesn't have an oil pump pickup stud. I emailed them and the stuff I'd have to buy is just not worth it in my opinion. Let's seriously overrate my expected HP and say I am making 325. Would the stock mains hold up to that much HP?
I'm content with just having ARP Wave-Loc Rod Bolts. I hate that ARP doesn't care to make an oil pump pickup stud to use with their bolt kit. I saw that Canton Racing makes an oil pump pickup stud, but it doesn't use a washer in the same manner as the ARP bolts do, so I can't do that.
I am seriously consider reusing them.
The ARP Main Bolt kit doesn't have an oil pump pickup stud. I emailed them and the stuff I'd have to buy is just not worth it in my opinion. Let's seriously overrate my expected HP and say I am making 325. Would the stock mains hold up to that much HP?
I'm content with just having ARP Wave-Loc Rod Bolts. I hate that ARP doesn't care to make an oil pump pickup stud to use with their bolt kit. I saw that Canton Racing makes an oil pump pickup stud, but it doesn't use a washer in the same manner as the ARP bolts do, so I can't do that.
OVERKILL
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The stock bottom-end on an HO is good for 500+RWHP. You would have the same rods and crank, minus the forged pistons.
The rod bolts are typically the only thing you upgrade.
The rod bolts are typically the only thing you upgrade.
so now you are replacing the injection system to get from 185hp to 325?
btw - the max theoretical hp your system will ever do, mass air or not is 320hp. this is at 100% injector cycle with increased pump pressure.
my 347 btw will pull 280hp out of my stock intake and 19lb injectors. and stock pump.
325 would require 24lbs and a MAF properly calibrated, not hard to do, available everyday, but add near to another G to the price...
btw - the max theoretical hp your system will ever do, mass air or not is 320hp. this is at 100% injector cycle with increased pump pressure.
my 347 btw will pull 280hp out of my stock intake and 19lb injectors. and stock pump.
325 would require 24lbs and a MAF properly calibrated, not hard to do, available everyday, but add near to another G to the price...
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: QuadDriver
so now you are replacing the injection system to get from 185hp to 325?
btw - the max theoretical hp your system will ever do, mass air or not is 320hp. this is at 100% injector cycle with increased pump pressure.
my 347 btw will pull 280hp out of my stock intake and 19lb injectors. and stock pump.
325 would require 24lbs and a MAF properly calibrated, not hard to do, available everyday, but add near to another G to the price...
Exactly!
But he's going to be no where near 325HP realistically. I made 325HP with heavily ported heads, 30lb injectors, 75MM MAF, TFS-R intake, blah blah blah.
so now you are replacing the injection system to get from 185hp to 325?
btw - the max theoretical hp your system will ever do, mass air or not is 320hp. this is at 100% injector cycle with increased pump pressure.
my 347 btw will pull 280hp out of my stock intake and 19lb injectors. and stock pump.
325 would require 24lbs and a MAF properly calibrated, not hard to do, available everyday, but add near to another G to the price...
Exactly!
But he's going to be no where near 325HP realistically. I made 325HP with heavily ported heads, 30lb injectors, 75MM MAF, TFS-R intake, blah blah blah.
Originally Posted By: QuadDriver
so now you are replacing the injection system to get from 185hp to 325?
btw - the max theoretical hp your system will ever do, mass air or not is 320hp. this is at 100% injector cycle with increased pump pressure.
my 347 btw will pull 280hp out of my stock intake and 19lb injectors. and stock pump.
325 would require 24lbs and a MAF properly calibrated, not hard to do, available everyday, but add near to another G to the price...
I'm building the bottom end to account for future upgrades. Should I decide to go with a major upgrade everything on the top half of the engine in the future, I want to know for certain that I don't have to pull the block back out because it's a weak link.
I am 100% positive that I will not get 325 HP with what I'm currently doing, but I want the bottom end to at least be up to the task of handling that much at the bare minimum.
so now you are replacing the injection system to get from 185hp to 325?
btw - the max theoretical hp your system will ever do, mass air or not is 320hp. this is at 100% injector cycle with increased pump pressure.
my 347 btw will pull 280hp out of my stock intake and 19lb injectors. and stock pump.
325 would require 24lbs and a MAF properly calibrated, not hard to do, available everyday, but add near to another G to the price...
I'm building the bottom end to account for future upgrades. Should I decide to go with a major upgrade everything on the top half of the engine in the future, I want to know for certain that I don't have to pull the block back out because it's a weak link.
I am 100% positive that I will not get 325 HP with what I'm currently doing, but I want the bottom end to at least be up to the task of handling that much at the bare minimum.
Looking for some opinions here. Being the average BITOGer, I have a sizeable stash of oil filters, but I'm trying to determine which one to use for my engine break in. My break in oil will be in the engine for 500 miles, then I'm going to change it out. I'd imagine any decent filter should do.
I have the following:
1. Supertech ST8A - I only have one of these around and being an ecore, I'm not too fond on using it.
2. Purolator L30001
3. Wix 51515
4. Pure One - PL30001
5. I have upper echelon filters as well, but I'm not too keen on using those for 500 miles.
6. I am strongly considering purchasing a Motorcraft FL-1A for the break in period.
Usually, I just slap any ol filter on my rebuilds, but I'm much more particular these days.
I have the following:
1. Supertech ST8A - I only have one of these around and being an ecore, I'm not too fond on using it.
2. Purolator L30001
3. Wix 51515
4. Pure One - PL30001
5. I have upper echelon filters as well, but I'm not too keen on using those for 500 miles.
6. I am strongly considering purchasing a Motorcraft FL-1A for the break in period.
Usually, I just slap any ol filter on my rebuilds, but I'm much more particular these days.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Get an FL-1A
Maybe look into one of the fully synthetic filters listed in the oil filter section. That is what I would use. I figure if the engine is going to shed the most garbage in 500 miles, having the best filter for those miles would actually be quite rewarding.
As for oil to break in the engine, I would buy RP break in oil, just because it is formulated for that one job only.
As for oil to break in the engine, I would buy RP break in oil, just because it is formulated for that one job only.
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