RLI BioSyn SHP 5w-40 HD, 5000 mi, 1996 BMW M3

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Note that copper is an additive in this oil, hence the high ppm reading.


Summary of the OCI:

- About 6 months and 5,000 miles. As with the last time, I sampled early to compare with previous results.
- Driving was mixed: highway, suburban roads, and stop-and-go.
- Slightly heavy foot on cold starts, with a fair bit of throttle but never over 2500 RPM until coolant is at operating temp.
- Lots of WOT, but not much redline (although more than the previous run).
- Oil consumption is at a new low: about 1 qt/1600+ mi.

On the previous run, it appeared that the injectors were faulty, which probably contributed to the fuel dilution. I changed the injectors with rebuilt ones before this run, and they seem to be better. On the flip side, I'm getting a bit of hesitation on cold starts that I didn't get before, so presumably something else in the engine needs attention; that may be why the fuel dilution has not yet been resolved. We shall see.

Still, all the wear indicators are at or near the best they've ever been. As the chemistry settles, the results should get even better. Given that, plus the fact that RLI is a domestic innovator run by very nice people, I think I have finally found the product I'm going to stick with for the foreseeable future. I'll take the next run out to 7,000 miles and see how it does.


On to the report. I've highlighted the top line for better readability:

RLI_5w-40_UOA1.jpg



The other lines are previous samples. In order from top to bottom (click for threads):
RLI BioSyn SHP 0w-30
Motul 300V 5w-40 #2
Motul 300V 5w-40 #1
Motul 8100 X-Cess 5w-40
Motul 8100 X-Max 5w-30 (original formula)
 
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
On the previous run, it appeared that the injectors were faulty, which probably contributed to the fuel dilution. I changed the injectors with rebuilt ones before this run, and they seem to be better.

How did you come to this conclusion? Fuel content appears to be about the same on this latest report.
 
1. Immediately after replacing the injectors, I took a test drive without resetting the ECU's fuel trims. The idea was that if some of the old injectors had been leaking, those cylinders would suddenly run leaner than the ECU had anticipated and trigger a CEL with a misfire. That's exactly what happened. I then reset the fuel trims and all was well.

2. The OBC's fuel economy reading used to be 1-2 mpg higher than what I calculated at the pump. Since that reading is derived from injector pulses, that discrepancy could be a sign that the injectors were spraying more fuel than the ECU thought they were. Since I changed the injectors, that discrepancy has all but disappeared (it's now always within 1 mpg).

3. As I understand, the cold start hesitation I'm having is unlikely to be due to leaking injectors, but could be due to something else (MAF, VANOS solenoid, etc.) that also might cause fuel dilution, which would offset the effect of changing the injectors on the fuel dilution number.


Of course, none of this rules out the possibility that the rebuilt injectors are no better than the old ones. I just think it moves that possibility down the hit list several notches.

Please, correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Yowzers!!!

More than $10.00 per quart.

I'd have to be able to reliably get at least 20,000 OCIs before I'd spend this kind of money on oil.
 
Originally Posted By: OldCowboy
Yowzers!!!

More than $10.00 per quart.

I'd have to be able to reliably get at least 20,000 OCIs before I'd spend this kind of money on oil.


Like Redline and others, it's not an oil you worry about the price.
 
$11/qt shipped, more or less.

Now, let's say I settle on an OCI of 7,000 miles, which will take me something like 10 months to reach. At 1 qt/1600+ miles, RLI 5w-40 would require me to top off with 4 qts in that interval. The best I was able to achieve with off-the-shelf products was 1 qt/1200 miles, which would require 5 qts of top-off (assuming I'm willing to let the car run almost a quart low near the end of the OCI).

So, RLI 5w-40 costs me $77 for the initial fill and $44 for top-off. Total: $121.

Suitable off-the-shelf products cost around $7/qt, so I'd end up paying $49 for the initial fill and $35 for top-off. Total: $84.

Total savings: $39. Over 7,000 miles and 10 months, that really is not a large amount. It's almost worth just knowing that I'm sending the money to a small, 100% domestic company owned and operated by nice people I can talk to, rather than to a huge multinational oil corporation.

On top of that, everything I've seen makes me feel confident that the RLI 5w-40 is better suited to my application than the off-the-shelf oils I've tried, and that the odds of finding something equal or better in stores are low enough that it would take far more experimentation than I would be comfortable doing.

So, as far as I'm concerned, I'm getting my money's worth -- at least to the extent possible. If anyone feels they have good reasons to believe I am mistaken, please speak freely.
thumbsup2.gif
 
I've worked with Terry on my 1996 318i, multiple UOAs... I've only posted one if I remember correctly, and again if I remember correctly, the link to the pdf is now broken.

( apologies, I'm now a supporter of people keying in their report )

While my 318i is by no means an M3, the oil section for your M3 given its age is very curious.
(age by way of oil required when new as well as just plain old age )

Your M3 is the perfect candidate for Rotella in a 15w40 dino version (CHEAP) or the full syn T6 5w40 ( half as much as RLI )
( all per Terry )

Terry wanted to see me in the Rotella 10w30 version, which I did run once, but never a UOA.

I've run every CJ4 15w40 that Walmart sells and or M1 HM 10w40, all with great results.
If I purchase MC 15w40 and opt for a BMW branded oil filter, my oil change total is < $ 25.

Oh, I too also had a fuel dilution problem. T-stat was stuck open. Finally figured that out when it got REAL cold.... it too hot here in Texas to note something like that.
 
Last edited:
I guess I need to have another crack at addressing the bang-for-the-buck argument.

I don't drive my car very much, so the incremental benefits of even large savings on oil wouldn't be significant; at the same time, I need to do my best to make the car last because, unlike when I bought it, I do not expect to have the means to replace it in the foreseeable future. This is why I'm shooting for the best, not the best bang-for-the-buck.

Much less am I willing to experiment with conventional oils, especially in grades like 15w-40, especially when BMW specs LL-98 performance levels (which require group III or above) as a bare minimum for my car.

Rotella T6 is not a bad suggestion, but simply isn't convincing to me. It's designed for a fairly variety of applications and optimized for ones that are very different from mine (diesel trucks and such); the one I'm using was specifically tailored to my kind of application (performance cars with heavy fuel dilution). That's not to say it wouldn't work; it's just that the odds of success don't seem good enough that I would feel comfortable straying from what is now a known quantity.

HondaMan, I'm glad you've had good experiences with a wide variety of oils in your 318i. I often wish my application were easier on oil than it is, so that I could do the same. I also wish I could fix my fuel dilution problem by replacing something simple like the thermostat. Unfortunately, such is not the case.
 
To you and to all old BMW owners, try M1 15W-50.
Mine just loves this stuff.
Fuel economy has actually improved relative to the 15W-40s and the 10W-30 Maxlife SB I've run in the car.
Consumption is about half what it has been with any other oil.
It is as though BMW and XOM came up with the ideal oil for an M42, and then kept it a secret.
Maybe BMW knew something back in the mid 'nineties when thay recommended a fifty grade for these cars?
 
I appreciate the recommendation. If I see evidence that an xw-50 would provide benefits other than reduced oil consumption, I might give it a shot.
 
flash seems a bit low
nitration is excellent - wish I could get my car to that level
silicon is beautiful - what are you doing there?
that seems like a lot of calcium
 
Originally Posted By: benjamming
flash seems a bit low

Indeed. A lot of that is from the fuel dilution, I'm sure.

Also, keep in mind that this flash point number was obtained by a method that yields much lower numbers than that used by Blackstone, but apparently represents critical engine areas more accurately.


Originally Posted By: benjamming
nitration is excellent - wish I could get my car to that level

Yeah. I'm sure my internals haven't gotten any better over time and the fuel dilution number has been going up, so I can't think of any explanation other than that this oil is actually sealing the combustion chamber better than most. Of course, if anyone has an alternative explanation, I'm open to it.


Originally Posted By: benjamming
silicon is beautiful - what are you doing there?

BMW OEM air filters.


Originally Posted By: benjamming
that seems like a lot of calcium

It is. This oil uses a "kitchen sink" additive package.
 
d00df00d,

I do not feel that a CJ4 is the best bang for the buck, I feel it is the best choice period.

Look at TIS for your model year, at that time the heart of the specification was ACEA A3.

For this age and class of vehicle, the specification is stll the same, ACEA A3.

Your model year calls for an ACEA rated oil category that does not exist today. ( as does mine )

Your statemnet re: 'application optimization' contradicts as Rotella T6 is for the exact same market your oil company is targeting with their RLI SHP 5w40HD. A diesel rated oil of API CI 4 / SM.

Rotella T6 is API CJ4 /SM a newer 'cleaner' specification if you will.

i.e. You are using a diesel rated oil, made for diesel engines, not 'performance cars'.

Ask Terry: "Why did you put me in a CI 4 rated oil?" "Why not a CJ 4?" "Why not a dino CI 4?"

He may have an answer for you re: why not a CJ4 as some do feel CI 4 is a better oil for their 'application' which in fact would be a million dollar tractor.

But he he will never say because the oil is optimized for your 'BMW' application.
 
Originally Posted By: HondaMan
Look at TIS for your model year, at that time the heart of the specification was ACEA A3.

Yes, LL-98 and LL-01 are based on iterations of ACEA A3. That doesn't mean anything derived from ACEA A3 is suitable, let alone optimal.


Originally Posted By: HondaMan
Your statemnet re: 'application optimization' contradicts as Rotella T6 is for the exact same market your oil company is targeting with their RLI SHP 5w40HD. A diesel rated oil of API CI 4 / SM.

RLI's HD range is for heavy duty and diesel apps, yes. However, the 5w-40 in particular was initially developed specifically for the Audi RS4 to address that car's performance needs with very heavy fuel dilution. It also has been tested in other similar applications with good results. It is based on RLI's HD formulations, but it is its own thing.


Originally Posted By: HondaMan
Ask Terry: "Why did you put me in a CI 4 rated oil?" "Why not a CJ 4?" "Why not a dino CI 4?"

Do you really think I'm paying for Terry's services without heeding his advice?

He has asked me to keep the specifics of his advice confidential, as he does with all of his customers. However, rest assured that his input, as well as the outcomes of many ongoing conversations over the years, have been integral to my decision.
 
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: HondaMan
Ask Terry: "Why did you put me in a CI 4 rated oil?" "Why not a CJ 4?" "Why not a dino CI 4?"

Do you really think I'm paying for Terry's services without heeding his advice?

He has asked me to keep the specifics of his advice confidential, as he does with all of his customers. However, rest assured that his input, as well as the outcomes of many ongoing conversations over the years, have been integral to my decision.

I just realized this part of my response was based on a misreading of the quoted text. I apologize. Since the edit time has long expired, I'd like to have another go at responding.

Between my own research, my conversations with Bill Garmier at RLI, and my ongoing conversations with Terry as substantiated by my UOAs with him, I selected RLI BioSyn 5w-40 HD because:

- Its chemistry seemed promising to control my fuel dilution and its effects, as well as my oil consumption.
- Its physical properties seemed suitable to my application (moderately high performance, loose piston rings, year-round use, originally used with an xw-40, etc.).
- Its heavy additization seemed promising to allow long OCIs.
- Despite the fact that it did not carry third party approval, it was very likely to meet or exceed my engine's performance needs, and my use of it would be guided by Terry.
- RLI's 0w-30 already did well in my application, with the exception of a few minor things; my understanding of the differences between that oil and the 5w-40 HD led me to believe that the 5w-40 HD would address exactly what I wished to improve on.
- Terry worked on this particular formulation since its inception and has seen it in a variety of applications, so he is well equipped to comment on UOAs with it.

In other words, although his advice (which I will not disclose in detail) was integral to my decision, this was not the result of blindly following his recommendations.
 
Any thoughts on why the slight increase in lead on the second run of 300V? Interesting that it stayed the same on RLI 0W-30 and then dropped on this oci.

-Dennis
 
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
Any thoughts on why the slight increase in lead on the second run of 300V? Interesting that it stayed the same on RLI 0W-30 and then dropped on this oci.

-Dennis

Good question.

If I had to say or be shot:

- Increasing fuel dilution caused the increased lead wear.
- RLI 0w-30 had chemistry-related benefits but was just too thin, thus the net effect was minimal in that department.
- RLI 5w-40 HD had more of a chemistry advantage AND the right viscosity, and thus delivered the goods.

I'm not an expert though, so take that as a grain of salt.
 
By the way, because some of the numbers seemed slightly anomalous, a few of the tests were re-run and the oxidation, nitration, and sulfate by-product numbers have changed. I will post a new copy soon.
 
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