Rislone engine treatment

[TallPaul]

I used Rislone for 25 years, one quart at the beginning of every oil change. My '84 F150 4.9L had it it's whole life with the possible exception of first couple OCI for break in. That didn't prevent some lifter clicking on some very cold winter mornings, but that may have been more from the 5w30 motor oil of that day (mid to late 90s). Anyway, sold truck at 175,000 miles and next driver did not use Rislone, but kept it for 9 years and just sold it because the body and frame were nearly gone with rust. Engine probably around 300,000 miles and running great. The buyer was planning on using the engine in another truck. Doesn't prove anything though.

I quit Rislone when I came to BITOG (actually I was given a link to a lengthy Rislone thread as my intro to BITOG (search the link about the date I joined (above). As I recall that thread or another back then had a VOA of Rislone and the additive levels were extremely weak. It was a 20 wt oil and some said it was basically ATF with a different color. When confronted with the weak additive levels, Rislone folks said it was ingredients that would not show in a UOA and that there is a special penetrating oil in it.

 

[yakky]

Quest, the cars I use Rislone on are older cars I've bought that had pretty dirty looking valvetrains from what I could see through the oil fill. Rislone did a very nice job cleaning those areas. The only trouble I've ever read about Rislone is it has caused leaks for lots of people...go figure, it removes sludge that could be around gaskets.

As far as high temps, I've noticed that almost every new car is running hot enough to have visible smoke coming out of the oil filler hole after shutting off the car. Looking at oil caps you can see deposit formation that looks more like smoke deposits than sludge.

Like I said, I don't, nor would I recommend making a habit of using rislone, but it does a very nice job of cleaning for me.

 

[Quest]

yakky,

for cleaning up older cars, try AutoRx instead.

As for smoking from the valve cover(oil filler opening), this is deemed normal. All engine oils are known to leave some deposits behind as the engine reaps up mileage and for that matter I would never loose sleep over deposits esp. on the non-oil-contacting sections of oil filer cap or the back side of valve cover(s).

Really, while there's no shame in using some of these oil "add-ons" in the days of yore, I personally believe that you will be so much better off running something better (AutoRx) or simply keep a strict/rigid regimen on oil change and maintenance on engines with modern motor oils instead of trusting the market for quick, OTC 5-min gratifications.

And trust me: there's no need to run stoddard solvent with good quality motor oils these days.

Q.

 

[yakky]

Quest,

I'm wondering if you are reading what I am posting. I don't use it regularly, I don't use it on vehicles I maintain, I only use it on new to me vehicles that have lots of buildup. I did take a look at the AutoRX site, while the product looks interesting, the before and after pictures are very similar to the result I have been getting with Rislone, and at a fraction of the cost, I'll stick to what I'm happy with. If AutoRX works for you, great.

 

[Quest]

I'm notoriously known for bashing stoddard solvent users (as 10min engine flush), if you know me long enough...

Cheers,

Q.

 

[Gary Allan]

yakky, the main objection to solvent flushes is somewhat multidimensional. They need to be strong to work well. The engine can't really tolerate them for the time required to do an effective job.

Let me try and say that differently. If they're strong enough, then they radically alter the chemistry of the host oil. If they're too harsh, they may effect gaskets and seals ..and may liberate too much material at one time. If it's a real stubborn formation, they aren't going to be in the engine long enough to do the job. If they can be tolerated by the engine ..and manage to not alter the "net effect" of the host oil ..then they'll probably volatilize and get spent out the PCV.

I could find no data on the visc or VI of the Engine Treatment. The Oil Treatment is pretty interesting here

Specific Gravity @ 15.6°C D-4052 0.8735
Density @15.6°C D-1298 7.232
Flash Point D-92 220°C / 428°F
Viscosity, cSt. @ 40°C D-445 3629
Viscosity, cSt. @ 100°C D-445 314
Viscosity, cSt. @ 150°C D-445 95
Viscosity Index D-445 242
Pour Point °C D-97 -24

Here's the Engine Treatment's tech page
http://www.barsproducts.com/tech/100QR_tech.pdf

 

[kingrob]

I've used Rislone before, and never really noticed any kind of cleaning effect. It seems too thick to really be of any effect to me. ARX as well didn't do anything for me in my application at least.

Here's my regimen for treating a sludged engine. If I can determine the extent of the crud I usually pull the valve covers and pour MMO over everything and let that sit for a day or two. Usually when I check on it the sludge and corrosion are loose, and/or evaporated. If the crud has done nothing, that's when I do a K+W engine flush on it. I usually pull the oil pan afterwards as a lot of junk ends up at the bottom.

Either way I choose to tackle it, I drain the oil and run some HD15-w40 for a couple of thousand miles. If it hasn't burned at least a pint by then I empty the oil filter and top off with a pint of MMO and run it for about 500 miles. This tends to get it pretty cleaned up internally.

After that regimen I tend to pull the valve cover again and 9 times out of 10 everything's cleaned up pretty spiffy. If it still needs additional cleaning I substitute a quart to quart and a half of oil for MMO for a very short OCI.

I know it's not a very scientific process but I've verified my results at later rebuilds/teardowns and found very little in the way of nasty deposits.

I've substituted MMO for Rislone on occasion for this regimen and it did nothing for me. I'm not saying it doesn't work, just that it didn't work the way I wanted it too.

As for Restore, I was having compression issues in an 87 Olds Cutlass and figured I'd give it a shot. The compression evened out awesomely, immediately followed by a completely blown rear main seal. After replacing the seal the compression went back to being too low, but nowhere near as low as before. I don't know what it did if anything, but that's the extent of my use with it. That rear main was too much of a PITA to change out for me to want to try it again.

 

[kingrob]

I should add too that many say stay away from engine flushes as they're too abrasive and removing the deposits could lead to more problems down the road, something I know personally to not be the case in my experience. I don't advocate doing a flush unless the engine is seriously sludged in the first place, but I whole-heartedly suggest cleaning the oil pan and screen, as it will probably get clogged up.

IMO people that flush the engine every oil change or once a year as a preventive measure are creating a problem that isn't there. If you have to flush your motor on a regular basis then there's either something wrong with your engine or your choice of oil, and a bottle of fix-em-up isn't going to change anything.

 

[TallPaul]

Always wanted to try the CD-2 Oil Detergent product:

Quote:
Replenishes detergents and dispersants in your motor oil.
Cleans ALL internal engine parts.
Prevents rust and corrosion.
Restores pep and power.
Replenishes additives to worn oil.

 

[BrianWC]

TP didn't Mola analyze that stuff a few years back? Or was that Rislone? All I remember was whichever one it was, it was pretty weak from an elemental standpoint.

 

[Rick20]

KingRob,

That is quite a regiment, rather labor intensive I might add, but I do admire your resolve. With regards to the "restored" compression on the '87 Olds, my guess is that bloacked crankcase ventilation may have been the culprit in your blown main seal.
Come to think of it may have been the likely culprit on coked up rings and compression loss to start with. I think we should all take notice that crankcase ventilation plays a huge role in motor contamination. But I would have thought that the newly found increase in compression would have kept compression in the combustion chamber, rather than putting addition stain on the lower motor seals.

In any event, no product will work effectively with the crankcase ventilation impeeded or stopped off completely. And that would be true of ARX as well.

But the amount of time, effort, and cost of a couple valve cover removals, dropping the pan, etc., is beyond what is needed to adequately clean up most sludged motors. I find it much easier to use ARX as prescribed. The original price tag is sounding cheaper all the time based on your methods.

 

[TallPaul]

Originally Posted By: BrianWC
TP didn't Mola analyze that stuff a few years back? Or was that Rislone? All I remember was whichever one it was, it was pretty weak from an elemental standpoint.
Not sure. I should search if I had the extra time.

 

[fixit301]

What is Rislone Engine Treatment?

Rislone Engine Treatment is a high quality penetrating lubrication oil, combined with protective engine additives and unique cleaning additives. Its multi-grade formula allows the oil to flow freely and provides protection over a broader temperature range. The unique Rislone Formula is designed to penetrate into valve seats, bearing surfaces, piston rings and ring grooves, where deposits are likely to form. These deposits are gradually removed and held in suspension until they are trapped in the filter or removed with the next oil change.


Rislone Engine Treatment gradually dissolves and removes harmful deposits of varnish, sludge and gum from the internal metal parts without plugging oil passages. These deposits form within engines and can alter tolerances, stick valves and rings, cause noisy valves and lifters, and plug oil screens and passages. Regular use of Rislone Engine Treatment, with oil and filter changes at the proper intervals, will keep such deposits to a minimum.



RISLONE ENGINE TREATMENT…AN ESSENTIAL PART OF YOUR MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE


Keeps Engine Clean

Nothing helps keep your engine clean like Rislone Engine Treatment. Rislone Engine Treatment promotes cooler operation and longer engine life by keeping engine cleaner and better lubricated with improved oil circulation. That’s important – especially because modern engines run hotter and vehicles must meet today’s stringent emission control standards.



Reduces Friction & Wear

At high operating temperature Rislone Engine Treatment’s multi-grade viscosity provides needed engine wear protection. At temperatures below 100°F, Rislone Engine Treatment slightly reduces oil viscosity to provide rapid lubrication, and to carry the special Rislone ingredients into oil passages, ring lands and valve seats. A cleaner engine is a better lubricated engine with less friction & wear.

Ok, this stuff kinda makes the claim as autoRX. I have used autoRX with good results. If this stuff works as claimed, it would be good for a scheduled maintenence type of cleaning. I WILL try it.

 

[Frank]

Making a 'sorta' type "claim" is amazing after your done experimenting do an Auto-Rx Clean & Rinse and get this off your internals and out of your oil.

 

[fixit301]

Wasn't bashing ARX, as I have had good results with it. Just stated the Rislone layed pretty good claims for a low cost treatment

 

[kingrob]

Originally Posted By: Frank
Making a 'sorta' type "claim" is amazing after your done experimenting do an Auto-Rx Clean & Rinse and get this off your internals and out of your oil.





How?

I failed to mention in my earlier post that I inspected my motor after Auto RX and it did very little in removing sludge. That's why I've stuck with my more "labor intensive" routine.

But I myself don't delude myself into thinking a product like ARX or MMO or Rislone will self-emulsify every deposit in an engine. That stuff has to go somewhere, and it's going to end up at the bottom of your oil pan. Going by the laws of chemical physics if you're running a detergent strong enough to emulsify each little particulate then your motor will dissolve before your eyes. Hence the cleaning the pan and screen after a "bath". This may seem like too much work for some but if your goal is to clean your engine, then don't half arse it, do it right!

It was mentioned that the price of ARX is looking better and better after what I put into my regimen, but the cost of an oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, and a few bottles of MMO still don't equal the cost of a bottle of ARX, and I know that my method works. How can you qualify that a product like ARX actually cleaned your engine without inspecting it for yourself?
I have, and while it does get some surface crud loose, if your motor is in need of a good cleaning then only after several bottles of ARX will it get the job done, a tremendous cost in the face of other engine treatments. Is it still arguably "safer" to do it this way? I don't believe so. As I said in my previous post I've seen no evidence that doing my method of engine cleaning results in anything more than an oil pan drop and cleaning.

If you get off of BITOG for a few minutes and look at the other Automotive forums on the web (I belong to a few myself) you'll see that ARX doesn't quite have the same glowing reputation that it does here on BITOG. I'm not knocking Frank or his product (we all have to eat right?) but I know three years ago this thread wouldn't have got this far along without being shut down. IMO you shouldn't take money from Sponsors if you want to have a healthy unbiased discussion forum. Used to be someone had a less than glowing review of ARX or Amsoil and the thread would immediately get closed down and disappear from the annals of history. I hope this doesn't start happening again, as I only recently started posting again after a long hiatus due to the above-mentioned nonsense.

Gary, Johnny, and most of the other sponsors are so non-biased that you forget that they represent a product. (I'm not so sure if Johnny really represents Pennzoil anymore or could be qualified as a sponsor but whatever). I don't care for Pennzoil OR Amsoil, but I still like and respect Johnny and Gary as they're both realistic and don't feel the need to jump up and cry each time somebody mentions that they don't like their respective brands (something Pablo even stopped doing

eventually).

But Frank IMO it only hurts you when you jump up to quickly knock another product and to push ARX on everybody. Then you add in some stupendous claim or cut and paste from your FAQ sheet. If you just let the product and other members speak for themselves you'll probably get more respect (and hence more sales). My :2cents:

 

[Frank]

I am not knocking another product, or trying to just don,t want Auto-Rx to get mixed up in a post about a solvent. I did not interject that!!!

Every claim made on behalf of Auto-Rx had to be proven or there would have been no patent issued. You can,t patent natural enzymes.

My 2 cents would be let solvent supporters stick to that and don,t try and pass it off as a cheap substitute for a great non solvent product.

 

[Saturn_Fan]

Originally Posted By: kingrob
Originally Posted By: Frank
Making a 'sorta' type "claim" is amazing after your done experimenting do an Auto-Rx Clean & Rinse and get this off your internals and out of your oil.





How?

I failed to mention in my earlier post that I inspected my motor after Auto RX and it did very little in removing sludge. That's why I've stuck with my more "labor intensive" routine.

But I myself don't delude myself into thinking a product like ARX or MMO or Rislone will self-emulsify every deposit in an engine. That stuff has to go somewhere, and it's going to end up at the bottom of your oil pan. Going by the laws of chemical physics if you're running a detergent strong enough to emulsify each little particulate then your motor will dissolve before your eyes. Hence the cleaning the pan and screen after a "bath". This may seem like too much work for some but if your goal is to clean your engine, then don't half arse it, do it right!

It was mentioned that the price of ARX is looking better and better after what I put into my regimen, but the cost of an oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, and a few bottles of MMO still don't equal the cost of a bottle of ARX, and I know that my method works. How can you qualify that a product like ARX actually cleaned your engine without inspecting it for yourself?
I have, and while it does get some surface crud loose, if your motor is in need of a good cleaning then only after several bottles of ARX will it get the job done, a tremendous cost in the face of other engine treatments. Is it still arguably "safer" to do it this way? I don't believe so. As I said in my previous post I've seen no evidence that doing my method of engine cleaning results in anything more than an oil pan drop and cleaning.

If you get off of BITOG for a few minutes and look at the other Automotive forums on the web (I belong to a few myself) you'll see that ARX doesn't quite have the same glowing reputation that it does here on BITOG. I'm not knocking Frank or his product (we all have to eat right?) but I know three years ago this thread wouldn't have got this far along without being shut down. IMO you shouldn't take money from Sponsors if you want to have a healthy unbiased discussion forum. Used to be someone had a less than glowing review of ARX or Amsoil and the thread would immediately get closed down and disappear from the annals of history. I hope this doesn't start happening again, as I only recently started posting again after a long hiatus due to the above-mentioned nonsense.

Gary, Johnny, and most of the other sponsors are so non-biased that you forget that they represent a product. (I'm not so sure if Johnny really represents Pennzoil anymore or could be qualified as a sponsor but whatever). I don't care for Pennzoil OR Amsoil, but I still like and respect Johnny and Gary as they're both realistic and don't feel the need to jump up and cry each time somebody mentions that they don't like their respective brands (something Pablo even stopped doing

eventually).

But Frank IMO it only hurts you when you jump up to quickly knock another product and to push ARX on everybody. Then you add in some stupendous claim or cut and paste from your FAQ sheet. If you just let the product and other members speak for themselves you'll probably get more respect (and hence more sales). My :2cents:


Well stated kingrob. I agree with everything you wrote sir.

Jon

 

[fixit301]

We'll see if the Rislone grenades one of my vehicles. I just added 1/2 bottle to a GM 4.2L I6 with about 32,000 miles on it. I'll let you all know how things go when I do the 5K change, that equals out to another 4K. Probably next Spring

 

[Quest]

Originally Posted By: fixit301
We'll see if the Rislone grenades one of my vehicles. I just added 1/2 bottle to a GM 4.2L I6 with about 32,000 miles on it. I'll let you all know how things go when I do the 5K change, that equals out to another 4K. Probably next Spring


LOL! I bet ya Rislone will not granade inside your car but most likely, it will do squat and that's the trouble I'm having with it all along the way, just like many other OTC add-ons.

Q.