Right way to apply Shin-etsu

[MoneyJohn]

I used to use 303 Aerospace protectant but that didn't work exactly the way I wanted. So got Shin-Etsu grease.

I wiped all rubber seals with 50% isopropanol and took a bead size Shin-Etsu on a fingertip and rubbed it into rubber seals (inside and outside). Does it absorb into the rubber or stays a thin film on the rubber? Mine stayed as a thin film attracting dust so I wiped with a microfiber towel and in a couple of days, the rubber returned to what it was like before.

I am not too sure if my application process was correct or this is how it is supposed to work.

Can anyone pls elaborate on how I am supposed to apply this grease?

 

[RooflessVW]

I always apply with by hand, working it in. Once I get around the whole vehicle to where I started I wipe off the excess.

 

[zfasts03]

I use a small piece of sponge (cut to 1" x 2") that I moisten with water to soften it. Then I apply about 1/2 pea size amounts to the sponge and spread it as far as it will go and repeat the 1/2 peas size amounts. The product goes an extremely long way and should be spread as thin as possible. Too much and it becomes a mess.

 

[Duffyjr]

The first time I applied it it took a lot, even had to go over some areas twice. I year later it took about 1/3 as much.

I always use an old sock like a glove for this type of work. When done I go back over it and wipe any excess off but it does seem to take a day or two to soak in.

The main reason I started doing this is frozen doors.

 

[MoneyJohn]

Thank you, folks.

Looks like I applied too much. I will try moistened old socks this time and see how it turns out.

I am only concerned about the rubber looking back to the way it was before application.

 

[atikovi]

If you're talking about the door weatherstrips, I just use a sponge dipped in Meguiar's Hyper Dressing cut 50/50.

 

[meep]

That’s a beautiful dash. I don’t recognize the model of honda? What is it?

 

[atikovi]

Insight.

 

[Dave9]

Some of it does slowly soak in the first application or two, especially on older rubber, so I like to apply when the vehicle won't be driven for a few hours, applying a thin layer and waiting to wipe off excess.

I don't bother with alcohol to pre-clean but I do use a hot detergent solution and a fair amount of elbow grease to get the oxidized rubber dust that rubs off, removed before the first treatment.

The thing about silicone grease is, it will attract dust if you have enough on to provide good protection for the rubber and give it a deeper black glossy look, so judge based on your environment and frequency of washing, how much of a film to leave behind. I usually do a rough fingerprint test - if I poke it and it leaves a print, there's too much on still, but it's not very dusty here, some people would prefer less than that.

 

[MoneyJohn]

I applied for the first time yesterday using an old sock sprayed with a quick detailer. I didn't get the black deep look as @atikovi but I plan to reapply next weekend to see how it turns out.

 

[doitmyself]

How is Shin-etsu different than any other silicone grease such as the 3M and Mission that are popular here?

 

[RooflessVW]

How is Shin-etsu different than any other silicone grease such as the 3M and Mission that are popular here?

It probably isn't. But it is inexpensive, widely available, and known to work.

 

[meep]

Doesn’t silicone break down plastics over time? I mean, I trust bitog enough that I ordered a tube based on this thread before asking, but we all figured that out with armor-all years ago…. That it was the regular application of silicone based treatments on the plastic dash that contributed to the hazing of windshields due to the breaking down of plastics.

??

 

[Dave9]

Doesn’t silicone break down plastics over time? I mean, I trust bitog enough that I ordered a tube based on this thread before asking, but we all figured that out with armor-all years ago…. That it was the regular application of silicone based treatments on the plastic dash that contributed to the hazing of windshields due to the breaking down of plastics.

??

Can you link to that topic? Silicone is generally safe to apply to "almost" every plastic and rubber out there, except silicone rubber. More likely it was just the armor all itself, vaporizing and depositing on the windshield due to high temperature... not that other products won't do that too, but silicone does not wash off as easily.

 

[Dave9]

It probably isn't. But it is inexpensive, widely available, and known to work.

Is it inexpensive? I must not shop in the right places because I'm seeing 100g (approx 3.5oz) tubes selling for around $18 while there are multiple other silicone greases available in 8oz to 14oz sizes for $20 or less.

 

[RooflessVW]

Is it inexpensive? I must not shop in the right places because I'm seeing 100g (approx 3.5oz) tubes selling for around $18 while there are multiple other silicone greases available in 8oz to 14oz sizes for $20 or less.

I meant inexpensive as in I didn't go "oh daaamn" when I bought it.

It's inexpensive enough.

 

[meep]

Can you link to that topic? Silicone is generally safe to apply to "almost" every plastic and rubber out there, except silicone rubber. More likely it was just the armor all itself, vaporizing and depositing on the windshield due to high temperature... not that other products won't do that too, but silicone does not wash off as easily.

if I thought I could find it, I absolutely would. I’ve had two user names on bitog, the first was early 2000s, went away for a while and then rejoined. I used a lot of armor-all back then - probably during my first years here when it came up… but I, guessing over 15 years ago. If that was erroneous info I’ll gladly be corrected.