Lubricating Door Seals and Door Locks

[JamesBond]

Previously for door locks I would give them a shot of de-icer from one of those little aerosol tubes they sell at walmart next to the ice scrapers. Recently on a residential door lock I used Remington Dri-lube with FANTASTIC results. It took 4-5 seconds of jiggling the key to get it into the lock, after a couple of sprays of Dri-lube into the keyhole with the straw, key slides in like they're magnetized. I am going to use Remington Dri-lube for all locks from now on.

I use Armor-all or Silicone Spray on a paper towel for the door seals.

 

[ChiTDI]

Originally Posted By: DaHen
For the past several years, I've been using 1Z Einszett Gummi Pflege Stift on the door seals. Seems to keep the seals on the old Chrysler LeBaron convertable in good pliable shape. Along with keeping the seals clean, I apply the Pflege Stift at least twice a year.


Agree- absolutely the best stuff for rubber seals. Saw it used in the Alps and have never had an issue in 15 years of use.
For the locks I use Tri-Flow. Seems ok don't really know of better lock lubes. Graphite maybe.

 

[L_Sludger]

i'm playing with sil-glyde right now but wish that the boutique stuff is more available and cheaper.

 

[bigmike]

Shen-Etsu FTW.

I use it on all door seals.

For locks, I use spray graphite. First time I asked for "spray graphite" at an auto parts store, everyone just stared at me. I explained I was lubricating door locks, and they got me a can of "Lock-Ease."

http://www.amazon.com/AGS-LE5-Lock-Ease/dp/B000CIJUGA

 

[ltslimjim]

What can be used for window tracts for manual windows? My driver side can be a pain to roll down, especially in colder weather.

 

[JamesBond]

For rubber window tracks I roll down the window and clean inside them with a wet paper towel and glass cleaner, then spray silicone spray with the straw in both channels and rub with an old tooth brush. The rubber tracks can go pretty far down into the door so don't be stingy with the spray. Work the window up and down to work it all in. If this doesn't work you'll need to take the door panel off and clean and grease the metal parts.

 

[benjamming]

ltslimjim,

I've used the aforementioned Shin-Etsu grease bought online for OEM parts dealer for glass run channels.

 

[benjamming]

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I would not worry too much about seals, as they are not pure rubber anymore.


What do you say they are made from now? They were made from EPDM when I was working in an auto plant making glass run channels about a decade ago. Sure the a-pillar & b-pillar had steel in them (or on them), but the c-channel was all rubber. Granted the rubber formulation isn't 100% rubber as it has filler, oils, carbon black, etc. but they were most certainly considered a type of rubber.

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted By: benjamming
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I would not worry too much about seals, as they are not pure rubber anymore.


What do you say they are made from now? They were made from EPDM when I was working in an auto plant making glass run channels about a decade ago. Sure the a-pillar & b-pillar had steel in them (or on them), but the c-channel was all rubber. Granted the rubber formulation isn't 100% rubber as it has filler, oils, carbon black, etc. but they were most certainly considered a type of rubber.


I meant to say natural rubber, which has very poor resistance to ozone. EPDM is a synthetic rubber that has a much greater ozone and heat resistance. It doesn't rot, dry out and fall apart like natural rubber does.

I know many people that never, ever treated the weather stripping and it works just fine.
That's why I said that I wouldn't worry too much about it. An occasional cleaning and treatment with a silicone grease will help keeping them pliable, but I would't waste my money on some expensive products, that all.