Rhino Ramps Collapsed

I pull my Avalanche(much heavier, pushing 6k) on my plastic ramps, no problems
Do you keep them in the sun outside?
We're they exposed to hot sun during the collapse
 
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It looks like I'll be building some wood ramps after I experienced a different type of failure with my Rhino Ramps. I was driving my wife's RAV4 off the ramps and one of them slipped out as I was descending and broke the end off.
View attachment 180968
These are one set of Rhino Ramps that I own and have had for years. I thought this version was pretty solid. Disheartening to see these break like this.
I also have the newer design which I don't trust that much as they don't seem as well built.
 
I found this pic showing squish, so it can happen.

[Linked Image from images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com]
Looks like they pulled too far forward up against that stop. That's also a trailer tire
 
These are one set of Rhino Ramps that I own and have had for years. I thought this version was pretty solid. Disheartening to see these break like this.
I also have the newer design which I don't trust that much as they don't seem as well built.
I bought a set recently and the same thing happened. Crushed the outer edge and everything was straight and aligned. Meanwhile the older ramps in my FIL's garage were much heavier construction and have lasted just fine.
 
That had to be a scary situation. Many clever homemade ones here,using wood,glue,screws and chunks of rubber material for grip.Make the bottom board long,as it really helps pin and gives you one last chance to visually make sure ,everything is correct and safe.
 
I bought a set recently and the same thing happened. Crushed the outer edge and everything was straight and aligned. Meanwhile the older ramps in my FIL's garage were much heavier construction and have lasted just fine.
One of my newer Rhino Ramps also crushed down a little bit one time when I accidently hit the bump stop harder than I planned. I have not used them since.
 
I'm beginning to think they were well made when first introduced.
Perhaps they didn't sell and the company found a way to cheapen them.
I remember getting mine after someone here posted news of a special price.
They came in 2 sizes then. Maybe the larger ones are/were better?
Again:
Post in thread 'Rhino Ramps Collapsed' https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/rhino-ramps-collapsed.314652/post-6503659

But I think it was Blitz to FloTool. I could search the web further if I cared. Point is, change of ownership.

Either way, comparing old versions to present day is like arguing that because one loved their '69 Blazer a 2024 will also be great. Same name, very different animals:
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But I still support one's right to assume risks as they see fit. If you have the new versions and think they're peachy, ok. Just keep your mom on speed dial...not that you can usually reach your phone when a vehicle has collapsed on you.
 
My failed Rhino Ramps may have prompted me to over react a bit. I found a set of old school truck ramps for sale locally and I bought them for sixty bucks.
1696177128488.png


They are bigger, longer, higher and heavier than my old Rhino ramps.
1696177254623.png


They lift the vehicle a full foot off the ground versus the 8.5 inch Rhinos. The approach angle is also steeper but since we live on a dirt road in rural Vermont, we will never own a low ground clearance vehicle again.

A few of the welds are a little underwhelming but I'm not sweating it and here's a shot of the worst example that I could find.
1696177695436.png


They make my old Rhino ramps look like toys and they are so solid that they may outlive Keith Richards.
1696178001705.png
 
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My failed Rhino Ramps may have prompted me to over react a bit. I found a set of old school truck ramps for sale locally and I bought them for sixty bucks.
View attachment 181344

They are bigger, longer, higher and heavier than my old Rhino ramps.
View attachment 181345

They lift the vehicle a full foot off the ground versus the 8.5 inch Rhinos. The approach angle is also steeper but since we live on a dirt road in rural Vermont, we will never own a low ground clearance vehicle again.

A few of the welds are a little underwhelming but I'm not sweating it and here's a shot of the worst example that I could find.
View attachment 181352

They make my old Rhino ramps look like toys and they are so solid that they may outlive Keith Richards.
View attachment 181354
The approach angle scares me on the metal ramps. How to you keep them from sliding forward?
 
My failed Rhino Ramps may have prompted me to over react a bit. I found a set of old school truck ramps for sale locally and I bought them for sixty bucks.
View attachment 181344

They are bigger, longer, higher and heavier than my old Rhino ramps.
View attachment 181345

They lift the vehicle a full foot off the ground versus the 8.5 inch Rhinos. The approach angle is also steeper but since we live on a dirt road in rural Vermont, we will never own a low ground clearance vehicle again.

A few of the welds are a little underwhelming but I'm not sweating it and here's a shot of the worst example that I could find.
View attachment 181352

They make my old Rhino ramps look like toys and they are so solid that they may outlive Keith Richards.
View attachment 181354
Looks like thin corroded steel. Perfect!
 
I haven't used ramps for probably 20+ years. I have never cared for them. Maybe I just don't understand how best to use them, so here are some genuine questions for all the ramp fans. These are based upon my experience with ramps.

1) Many of my cars have had a very low approach, and the car scrapes on ramps before the tire ever reaches the ramp. What do you do? Longer ramp approach?

2) Question 1 leads to this next question? Doesn't the ramp portion get in the way when working on certain projects, like transmission fluid changes? How do you deal with this inconvenience? And wouldn't a ramp with a long approach be even more in the way?

3) To do many jobs right, a car needs to be level. Transmission fluid drain & fill, for one. Rear diff drain & fill for another. How do you level a car with ramps?

4) And question 3 leads into this last question. How do you do work on the rear end of the car, such as rear diff fluid change?
 
That had to be a scary situation. Many clever homemade ones here,using wood,glue,screws and chunks of rubber material for grip.Make the bottom board long,as it really helps pin and gives you one last chance to visually make sure ,everything is correct and safe.
90% of my outdoor projects use treated lumber - not ramps - want to stress that you will get the best glue performance with dry indoor wood … then painted mine and keep them in a shed …
 
I haven't used ramps for probably 20+ years. I have never cared for them. Maybe I just don't understand how best to use them, so here are some genuine questions for all the ramp fans. These are based upon my experience with ramps.

1) Many of my cars have had a very low approach, and the car scrapes on ramps before the tire ever reaches the ramp. What do you do? Longer ramp approach?

2) Question 1 leads to this next question? Doesn't the ramp portion get in the way when working on certain projects, like transmission fluid changes? How do you deal with this inconvenience? And wouldn't a ramp with a long approach be even more in the way?

3) To do many jobs right, a car needs to be level. Transmission fluid drain & fill, for one. Rear diff drain & fill for another. How do you level a car with ramps?

4) And question 3 leads into this last question. How do you do work on the rear end of the car, such as rear diff fluid change?
I use metal ramps, but lighter duty and shorter than the truck ramps above, and not quite as high and they don't often get in the way it seems. My cars aren't that heavy. I have used them on a gravel down slope to get the car levelish when needed. I just put some 3/4" ply pieces under the weight bearing end of the ramps if I used them on gravel. I also made a 16" cube of 2x4 cribbing that's light and easy to throw under a car and move while I'm under there.
I've also put the front on ramps and jacked the rear up in the middle of the rear subframe and put the rear on jack stands to level it out.
 
Since they never fail.🤣
Actually sure the cast ones with teeth can be questionable and HF only helped to prove this, but properly built and welded stands made with sleeved pipe and holes drilled for a pin in double shear.....well not much more failure prone than a 2" receiver hitch.

At this point the ONLY real issue becomes user error (gross overloading, uneven/unstable ground, etc) and you can't fix stupid....
 
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