I keep them in an unheated garage but we haven't had freezing temps since spring and it was probably about 50° on the morning of the incident.Out of curiosity, were they exposed to Vermont winter temps?
I keep them in an unheated garage but we haven't had freezing temps since spring and it was probably about 50° on the morning of the incident.Out of curiosity, were they exposed to Vermont winter temps?
These are one set of Rhino Ramps that I own and have had for years. I thought this version was pretty solid. Disheartening to see these break like this.It looks like I'll be building some wood ramps after I experienced a different type of failure with my Rhino Ramps. I was driving my wife's RAV4 off the ramps and one of them slipped out as I was descending and broke the end off.
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Looks like they pulled too far forward up against that stop. That's also a trailer tireI found this pic showing squish, so it can happen.
I bought a set recently and the same thing happened. Crushed the outer edge and everything was straight and aligned. Meanwhile the older ramps in my FIL's garage were much heavier construction and have lasted just fine.These are one set of Rhino Ramps that I own and have had for years. I thought this version was pretty solid. Disheartening to see these break like this.
I also have the newer design which I don't trust that much as they don't seem as well built.
One of my newer Rhino Ramps also crushed down a little bit one time when I accidently hit the bump stop harder than I planned. I have not used them since.I bought a set recently and the same thing happened. Crushed the outer edge and everything was straight and aligned. Meanwhile the older ramps in my FIL's garage were much heavier construction and have lasted just fine.
Again:I'm beginning to think they were well made when first introduced.
Perhaps they didn't sell and the company found a way to cheapen them.
I remember getting mine after someone here posted news of a special price.
They came in 2 sizes then. Maybe the larger ones are/were better?
Yep. I love my HF Rhino Ramps because they team up well with jack stands. I shudder at what I used to do when I was young...Jack stands
Since they never fail.Jack stands
The approach angle scares me on the metal ramps. How to you keep them from sliding forward?My failed Rhino Ramps may have prompted me to over react a bit. I found a set of old school truck ramps for sale locally and I bought them for sixty bucks.
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They are bigger, longer, higher and heavier than my old Rhino ramps.
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They lift the vehicle a full foot off the ground versus the 8.5 inch Rhinos. The approach angle is also steeper but since we live on a dirt road in rural Vermont, we will never own a low ground clearance vehicle again.
A few of the welds are a little underwhelming but I'm not sweating it and here's a shot of the worst example that I could find.
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They make my old Rhino ramps look like toys and they are so solid that they may outlive Keith Richards.
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Looks like thin corroded steel. Perfect!My failed Rhino Ramps may have prompted me to over react a bit. I found a set of old school truck ramps for sale locally and I bought them for sixty bucks.
View attachment 181344
They are bigger, longer, higher and heavier than my old Rhino ramps.
View attachment 181345
They lift the vehicle a full foot off the ground versus the 8.5 inch Rhinos. The approach angle is also steeper but since we live on a dirt road in rural Vermont, we will never own a low ground clearance vehicle again.
A few of the welds are a little underwhelming but I'm not sweating it and here's a shot of the worst example that I could find.
View attachment 181352
They make my old Rhino ramps look like toys and they are so solid that they may outlive Keith Richards.
View attachment 181354
90% of my outdoor projects use treated lumber - not ramps - want to stress that you will get the best glue performance with dry indoor wood … then painted mine and keep them in a shed …That had to be a scary situation. Many clever homemade ones here,using wood,glue,screws and chunks of rubber material for grip.Make the bottom board long,as it really helps pin and gives you one last chance to visually make sure ,everything is correct and safe.
I use metal ramps, but lighter duty and shorter than the truck ramps above, and not quite as high and they don't often get in the way it seems. My cars aren't that heavy. I have used them on a gravel down slope to get the car levelish when needed. I just put some 3/4" ply pieces under the weight bearing end of the ramps if I used them on gravel. I also made a 16" cube of 2x4 cribbing that's light and easy to throw under a car and move while I'm under there.I haven't used ramps for probably 20+ years. I have never cared for them. Maybe I just don't understand how best to use them, so here are some genuine questions for all the ramp fans. These are based upon my experience with ramps.
1) Many of my cars have had a very low approach, and the car scrapes on ramps before the tire ever reaches the ramp. What do you do? Longer ramp approach?
2) Question 1 leads to this next question? Doesn't the ramp portion get in the way when working on certain projects, like transmission fluid changes? How do you deal with this inconvenience? And wouldn't a ramp with a long approach be even more in the way?
3) To do many jobs right, a car needs to be level. Transmission fluid drain & fill, for one. Rear diff drain & fill for another. How do you level a car with ramps?
4) And question 3 leads into this last question. How do you do work on the rear end of the car, such as rear diff fluid change?
Actually sure the cast ones with teeth can be questionable and HF only helped to prove this, but properly built and welded stands made with sleeved pipe and holes drilled for a pin in double shear.....well not much more failure prone than a 2" receiver hitch.Since they never fail.