So I'm trying to get an old Ford Contour (2.0 auto, over 100k miles) running again after sitting outside for a couple years. What kind of things can I expect to go wrong on a car like this once I start driving it around? I'm going to replace all the fluids beforehand, but I really want to know if the trans will explode, or if the brakes will catastrophically fail.
Reviving an old car
- Thread starter Oversteer
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You should go over everything that you can think of, esp. the brakes.
How about old gas? That will cause all sorts of problems.
You really have a lot of work, first, before driving it.
How about old gas? That will cause all sorts of problems.
You really have a lot of work, first, before driving it.
From experience......
Change all fluids. Use either an engine oil that has seal conditioners in them or use an additive. I highly recommend motor oil saver by liqui-moly/lubro-moly for seals. It has stopped every leak in every engine I ever used it in.
Do not drive the car hard for a few thousand miles until all seals are supple again.
I wouldn't completely swap out all transmission fluid. Just a gallon at a time,per week or so and be sure to get the engine to temp often.
Look over all suspension bushings and anything rubber as they will likely be rotted. Replace whatever is dangerous.
Check tires and pay attention to any loud squeaks as it could indicate bearing issues.
Change all fluids. Use either an engine oil that has seal conditioners in them or use an additive. I highly recommend motor oil saver by liqui-moly/lubro-moly for seals. It has stopped every leak in every engine I ever used it in.
Do not drive the car hard for a few thousand miles until all seals are supple again.
I wouldn't completely swap out all transmission fluid. Just a gallon at a time,per week or so and be sure to get the engine to temp often.
Look over all suspension bushings and anything rubber as they will likely be rotted. Replace whatever is dangerous.
Check tires and pay attention to any loud squeaks as it could indicate bearing issues.
If it has not run in awhile, squirt some oil, mmo in each spark plug hole to lube the rings. I would go through the brakes, the rotors are probably rusted up. new rotors pads and fluid, maybe calipers and lines depending on age. Next belts hoses etc. berrymans b-12 in the fuel and after you get it running, a fuel filter change perhaps after a tank is burned.
I would test drive it slowly, before investing in fluids. I suspect your brakes will need some attention, minimally.
Sitting outside is brutal on a car. Check all the brake lines, not just the rubber, but the steel lines as well. I'd rebuild all the brakes, including the calipers and wheel cylinders. Look for rodent nests in all openings.
Make sure the tires aren't dry rotted or flat spotted.
Changing the fluids is a good idea. Expect some leaks from seals that dried up.
If you can drain the old fuel it would be a good idea. You might be able to use the fuel pump to do the job by tapping into the fuel rail.
Once it's running I'd probably change the oil in a fairly short interval, maybe 1000 miles or so, just to get rid of any junk from sitting. Put in some good quality oil and drive it like normal.
Make sure the tires aren't dry rotted or flat spotted.
Changing the fluids is a good idea. Expect some leaks from seals that dried up.
If you can drain the old fuel it would be a good idea. You might be able to use the fuel pump to do the job by tapping into the fuel rail.
Once it's running I'd probably change the oil in a fairly short interval, maybe 1000 miles or so, just to get rid of any junk from sitting. Put in some good quality oil and drive it like normal.
The trans shouldn't explode, but brakes, sure why not. They do that. Stomp the brake pedal like a weasel in that Weird Al song before you drive anywhere and replace the pads in case the linings should decide to separate from the backing at the wrong time.
You folks might cringe at this, but my plan was to make a few hard stops to get the rust off the rotors (it's not really thick). I tried getting the caliper brackets off already, and the bolts just weren't having it. The brake pads look pretty new, the lines have some surface rust, but the hoses look ok.
Originally Posted By: Oversteer
You folks might cringe at this, but my plan was to make a few hard stops to get the rust off the rotors (it's not really thick). I tried getting the caliper brackets off already, and the bolts just weren't having it. The brake pads look pretty new, the lines have some surface rust, but the hoses look ok.
If the lines aren't corroded then I don't see too much harm in that. Maybe ride them a bit to get everything hot a few times.
Ultimately you are paying the bill so do whatever you feel is right.
Keep us informed
You folks might cringe at this, but my plan was to make a few hard stops to get the rust off the rotors (it's not really thick). I tried getting the caliper brackets off already, and the bolts just weren't having it. The brake pads look pretty new, the lines have some surface rust, but the hoses look ok.
If the lines aren't corroded then I don't see too much harm in that. Maybe ride them a bit to get everything hot a few times.
Ultimately you are paying the bill so do whatever you feel is right.
Keep us informed
First thing to do before driving it is to nail the brake pedal for all you are worth. If a steel line is going to burst you want it to do it sitting still.
After that just get it running and see what it needs. You might get away with just a new battery and some new gas and be able to drive it for a bit.
I was broke in HS and revived a number of cars like this.
After that just get it running and see what it needs. You might get away with just a new battery and some new gas and be able to drive it for a bit.
I was broke in HS and revived a number of cars like this.
JHZR2
Staff member
Rubber parts. Start with tires and brake lines. Go from there.
Suspension may be shot... Rotors are probably going to need replacement.
Suspension may be shot... Rotors are probably going to need replacement.
Originally Posted By: Oversteer
You folks might cringe at this, but my plan was to make a few hard stops to get the rust off the rotors (it's not really thick). I tried getting the caliper brackets off already, and the bolts just weren't having it. The brake pads look pretty new, the lines have some surface rust, but the hoses look ok.
Do it. Do it in a safe place, and know where the emergency brake is. Stressing the components, while counterintuitive to some, makes sense before taking this thing out on a trip.
You folks might cringe at this, but my plan was to make a few hard stops to get the rust off the rotors (it's not really thick). I tried getting the caliper brackets off already, and the bolts just weren't having it. The brake pads look pretty new, the lines have some surface rust, but the hoses look ok.
Do it. Do it in a safe place, and know where the emergency brake is. Stressing the components, while counterintuitive to some, makes sense before taking this thing out on a trip.
A great big "Yes" to all the brake advice. I had an old truck I brought back to life about 20 years ago. Some fresh gas and it started right up and ran great. Eased around the yard for a bit and took it out on the road. Went to stop at a stop sign and pedal went to the floor. Thankfully, no one was coming and I was only doing about 40 mph.
On another note - check wires to see if critters nibbled or chewed through wires - some of these can be a real pain to run down. Check air cleaner to make sure no critters have moved in there as well.
On another note - check wires to see if critters nibbled or chewed through wires - some of these can be a real pain to run down. Check air cleaner to make sure no critters have moved in there as well.
Sounds like a lot of money for and old Ford Contour. Is it worth the investment?
HA! when I read the heading, I thought he meant an actual OLD CAR, not a recent car LOL
Yeah, all fluids etc. then just run it hard (italian tune up). That'll get 'er running again
Yeah, all fluids etc. then just run it hard (italian tune up). That'll get 'er running again
Originally Posted By: LckydevL
I would at least bleed the brakes before taking a trip somewhere. Anything else you do with the car at this time is secondary to STOPPING.
Not going is a problem, not stopping is a huge problem that can turn ugly.
Be careful.
Like the old saying goes, "I couldn't fix your brakes so I made your horn louder."
I would at least bleed the brakes before taking a trip somewhere. Anything else you do with the car at this time is secondary to STOPPING.
Not going is a problem, not stopping is a huge problem that can turn ugly.
Be careful.
Like the old saying goes, "I couldn't fix your brakes so I made your horn louder."
I love beaters.
Check the breaks... err... brakes.
Check the breaks... err... brakes.
Two years isn't that long. Get it running ride the brakes some to remove the rust on the rotor. Also check the brake lines. 2 yrs isn't that long. Tires may not even be bad. If they didn't go flat that is.
I just went through this exact thing. It isn't as big a deal as some male it. Just use good judgment.
I just went through this exact thing. It isn't as big a deal as some male it. Just use good judgment.
When I brought our 1990 deville back to life from sitting about 3 years outdoors the only problem I ran into was a dead battery, sticky front brake caliper, and a mouse chewed through the high level stop light wiring.
It fired up just find on the old gas in the tank. Just check all the fluids before trying to start it.
I agree put off doing some things until you know it will at least crank and run.
It fired up just find on the old gas in the tank. Just check all the fluids before trying to start it.
I agree put off doing some things until you know it will at least crank and run.
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