Reusing Oil Filter Question

[daman]

I do two OC on my UPFs and Fleetguard StrataPore synthetic filters.

i remove filter gently open the ADBV with a small screw driver(helps get more oil out)and dump oil out then reinstall it.

it is hard fighting that temptation to put a new one on but i just remember what filter this is and that makes it easier.

 

[ZZman]

Originally Posted By: natesmith65
How could a dirty oil filter become MORE efficient over time? I would never recommend someone use a dirty filter of any kind.


Because the media element pores over time get covered up or partially covered up. This makes even smaller spaces for the oil/particles to have to get thru. This in turn helps trap particles that may have slipped right thru before because of their size.

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: ZZman
Originally Posted By: natesmith65
How could a dirty oil filter become MORE efficient over time? I would never recommend someone use a dirty filter of any kind.


Because the media element pores over time get covered up or partially covered up. This makes even smaller spaces for the oil/particles to have to get thru. This in turn helps trap particles that may have slipped right thru before because of their size.


At the expense of flow, usually.

 

[Kaboomba]

If you go oversized and/or synthetic with your filter, you can go 2-3 OCI's without hurting oil pressure (the real issue). I have seen this over and over with my car.

On my last OCI my FleetGuard LF3554 was getting SLIGHTLY more restrictive at 15K mi. It could have gone longer.

 

[daman]

Thats why over sized is a good thing...

 

[Gary Allan]

Originally Posted By: webfors
Originally Posted By: ZZman
Originally Posted By: natesmith65
How could a dirty oil filter become MORE efficient over time? I would never recommend someone use a dirty filter of any kind.


Because the media element pores over time get covered up or partially covered up. This makes even smaller spaces for the oil/particles to have to get thru. This in turn helps trap particles that may have slipped right thru before because of their size.


At the expense of flow, usually.


No, not really. It just means that it appears like a smaller filter as it ages. It will have more PSID whenever it has PSID of merit, it will react to flow limitations, as evidenced in terms of PSID, more so as it ages.

There's little evidence in my experience that even taking these alterations into account, that they are of significant importance.

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:
I ran a EaO for two 5k (or so) runs and the insolubles were lower after the second run than the first.. (.2 vs .3)


I think I nearly did 4x5k ..it may have been 18k total. The oil isn't adding much to the filter and I don't know why people can't see that.

There's combustion byproducts (major contributor). These will be a constant assuming the same usage profile.

There's fatigued/oxidized/whatever components that degrade in the oil itself. If you're changing out the sump, what makes you think that those conditions are still present? Those things will happen on a curve.

Here's the contradictions in views:

A PureOne ..according to some, is a 15k (some alleged 20k) filter.

However, it's one that they will throw in the trash can since it's only good for 5k ..even if they do 15k a year.

I hope that fanboydom doesn't interfere with you all seeing "what's wrong with this picture?".

If the PureOne is allegedly good for 15k with a 15k capable oil, then it should be a walk in the park for it to do 3 X 5k with a 5k oil (anyone here think that there are oils really limited to 5k while being used over a 15k/year usage profile?).

So is it the best filter for 15k or not capable of 15k?

The moral of the story is that the difference is YOUR perception and view, not the filter.

 

[PandaBear]

It depends. I'd say it is ok if you do 5k OCI and use it for 2 changes, but my changes are usually 7.5k and there's no way I'd leave it on for that long consider how thick the oil come out of the plug looks like. I'd also rather buy 2 cheap filters than 1 sturdy filters and use it for 2 interval. Something tells me a better quality will not defy the law of physics that well.

 

[Hemi426]

I change my Ultra at 5K but it wouldn't matter if I did cut back to 2500 miles. I'm still putting on a new filter, Amsoil salesman.

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:
Amsoil salesman.

and proud of it

Quote:
t depends. I'd say it is ok if you do 5k OCI and use it for 2 changes, but my changes are usually 7.5k and there's no way I'd leave it on for that long consider how thick the oil come out of the plug looks like. I'd also rather buy 2 cheap filters than 1 sturdy filters and use it for 2 interval. Something tells me a better quality will not defy the law of physics that well.


You've got it right. There's not much sense to spending any more than you have to if you're not ever going to approach the edge of any envelope.

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: webfors
Originally Posted By: ZZman
Originally Posted By: natesmith65
How could a dirty oil filter become MORE efficient over time? I would never recommend someone use a dirty filter of any kind.


Because the media element pores over time get covered up or partially covered up. This makes even smaller spaces for the oil/particles to have to get thru. This in turn helps trap particles that may have slipped right thru before because of their size.


At the expense of flow, usually.


Positive displacement pumps don't flow much less as resistance rises, until you get the filter into bypass.

I think you'd have to have a ridiculously plugged filter to be bypassing in a road vehicle (when warm)

 

[SuperBusa]

Originally Posted By: Shannow

Positive displacement pumps don't flow much less as resistance rises, until you get the filter into bypass.


A positive displacement oil pump will still flow the same amount to the filter/engine circuit if the filter is in bypass or not - as long as the pump is not in pressure relief mode. You might be confusing the filter bypass valve with the pump pressure relieve valve.

The only time the oil flow volume going to the filter/engine circuit changes due to increased filter resistance is when the pump hit's pressure relief. If the resistance of the filter increases, but never causes the pump to hit max pressure relief point, then the oil volume will remain the same.

 

[Gary Allan]

The 9k used filter I tested with heavy oil at subfreezing temps had no appreciable PSID when the pump came out of relief. You could get a "flare" of PSID if you surged the engine to the upper rpm band when the oil temp was 150F+/-. I interpret that as loading simulating a smaller filter and the higher visc simulating higher volumes at a lower visc. After the initial "inertia" based relief event stabilized (thick oil being asked to magically accelerate to xx gpm from a stand still), the PSID never approached anywhere near the bypass threshold.

My experienced opinion is that this is a way over thought process for 99.99% of the vehicles out there ..and therefore their owners too. You would be better served debating the installation of a Titanium roof liner for the stray meteorite collision.

Elevated PSID events occur most often when the pump is in relief. There can be elevated PSID at start up if there's on oil on the backside of the filter to "shore it up" with "back pressure". Other than that totally UNAVOIDABLE EVENT, it comes down to the visc of the fluid being able to fit a given volume through the engine without breaching the relief. That will be determined, basically, by the temp/visc shake out.

Want to minimize relief events (and therefore MOST of the potential filter bypass events)?
Live in Florida and use the spec'd oil.
Use a pan warmer
Don't "go up a notch" on visc.
Don't opt for the high volume pump from the Jeg's/Summit catalog
Don't do both of the last two.

 

[phrustrated]

This refers to oil filters with non-return (anti-drainback) valves

 

[phrustrated]

This refers to oil filters with non-return (anti-drainback) valves.
The oil goes INTO the filter via holes near the edge, forces its way past the rubbery anti-drainback valve, flows up inside the can then strains through the filter medium then down through the center of the filter and out through the hole where it is screwed on. Thus the dirt ends up on one side of the filter medium.
To clean out the old oil AS WELL AS THE DIRT you first need to drain the filter by tipping the old oil out the center hole AND ALSO push the rubbery anti-drainback valve away from its seat to let the the dirt on the filter medium out (along with a bit more oil). Let the filter stand upside down on a bit of wood with some nails poking up to keep the rubbery anti-drainback valve open.
Finally fill the filter with kero or gasoline, shake well and drain upside down again on your bit of wood with some nails poking up. Repeat until the drained liquid get clean. If you look carefully you may see the larger dirt particles washed off one side of the filter.
Prime the filter with new oil and refit.

 

[ZeeOSix]

If going through the trouble to try and "wash out" an oil filter, which is a bit sketchy anyway, just put a new filter on.

People who use an oil filter for multiple OCIs are typically using a long duration oil filter and relatively short OCIs. Example, 2 OCIs on a Fram Ultra or WIX XP or similar. IMO, not a good idea to disturb the filter, just leave it on the engine if using it for 2x OCIs.

 

[HemiHawk]

Holy thread revival.

 

[Yah-Tah-Hey]

WHY?

 

[phrustrated]

The idea to clean and re-cycle regular filters came about when I became aware of the trend towards the use of ones with removable washable filter elements. Cost saving and environmental factors are surely worthy. If it is good enough for the vehicle makers.....

Once you have made your bit of wood with some nails poking up to keep the rubbery anti-drainback valve open it takes little effort.

A refinement I am pondering is a simple method to actually force the kero or gasoline through the filter medium under low pressure in the opposite direction to which the engine oil flows, thus better dislodging the dirt. I'm thinking having a hole in the bit of wood, aligned below the center hole of the filter. A tube pokes up through the hole and up to the top of the filter. Some sort of seal around the tube where it goes in the hole. Have the filter sitting on the nails to keep the anti-drainback valve open while you pour kero or gasoline down the (raised) end of the tube. Comments welcome.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Sounds like something I'd read in the novel "The Grapes of Wrath" when they had to repair their car on the way to California.