On my daughter's Mazda3 I recently installed a Fram Ultra and will multiple drain and refills.
No need to empty the filter.
No need to empty the filter.
Reusing Fram Ultra Synth. Oil Filter?
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Mr Nice: Is yours "Skyaktiv" or non-Skyaktiv?
Filters for either will fit but the bypass pressure differs between the two.
I learned that with Sis' 2012 Skyaktiv, the first year for them.
That Hastings and WIX both took 6 months to list a separate filter elevated them in my mind.
Lesser brands simply applied the old filter to the new engine.
Filters for either will fit but the bypass pressure differs between the two.
I learned that with Sis' 2012 Skyaktiv, the first year for them.
That Hastings and WIX both took 6 months to list a separate filter elevated them in my mind.
Lesser brands simply applied the old filter to the new engine.
I have owned six Skyactive engines since 2012 and the ONLY filters that should be used are OEM PE01-14-302 , PE01-14-302A or PE01-14-302B. All from Japan.
Originally Posted by VQ35DE
I have owned six Skyactive engines since 2012 and the ONLY filters that should be used are OEM PE01-14-302 , PE01-14-302A or PE01-14-302B. All from Japan.
There is also the OEM filter 1WPE-14-302 from Thailand. Also a good filter. The Mobil 1 EP 108A can also be used.
I have owned six Skyactive engines since 2012 and the ONLY filters that should be used are OEM PE01-14-302 , PE01-14-302A or PE01-14-302B. All from Japan.
There is also the OEM filter 1WPE-14-302 from Thailand. Also a good filter. The Mobil 1 EP 108A can also be used.
Triple_Se7en
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Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Taking off the filter and draining it - then reinstalling it, is fine. I've done it for almost 20 years now, with no leaks.
I've done it a few times too. No leaking issues. Having said that the few times I did it I was the person who installed the filter the first time, and I never gorilla tighten them.
When I reinstall the 2nd time, I use a filter wrench and turn the filter a 1/4 turn after the hand tighten. If I had only hand-tightened the 2nd time-around, it may have weeped or slightly leaked.
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Taking off the filter and draining it - then reinstalling it, is fine. I've done it for almost 20 years now, with no leaks.
I've done it a few times too. No leaking issues. Having said that the few times I did it I was the person who installed the filter the first time, and I never gorilla tighten them.
When I reinstall the 2nd time, I use a filter wrench and turn the filter a 1/4 turn after the hand tighten. If I had only hand-tightened the 2nd time-around, it may have weeped or slightly leaked.
I ran the Fram Ultra filters for 2 x 5,000 mile oil changes with Redline oil in my Nissan 370Z. I mentioned it to Blackstone on one of my analysis reports and they noted that it didn't seem to create any issues.
I did not remove, drain and refill the filters between changes. Much of the benefit to me in leaving the filter on at the oil change after the first 5000 miles was not having the mess and hassle of changing it. If I were going to remove the filter I may as well put a new one on for $10, I'm not so cheap that I would spend the time to remove, drain and replace it just to save a few bucks. Plus I don't like the risk of the gasket being compromised.
Regarding filters for the Mazda Skyactiv engines; I had planned on using a Fram Ultra on my new CX 5 with the turbo engine and also leaving it on for 2 x 5,000 OCI's. But as VQ35DE and PimTac have mentioned there is a question regarding the bypass pressure specifications being correct on other than OEM Mazda filters. I have a few of the Mazda PY8W-14-302 filters on hand and maybe by the time I have consumed them the question will be answered regarding whether the Fram Ultra and Mobil 1 filters are correct for that engine and not just of the same thread size and cannister size. I sure would like to try the slightly oversize Fram XG7317 or Mobil 1 M110 for a little extra oil capacity.
I did not remove, drain and refill the filters between changes. Much of the benefit to me in leaving the filter on at the oil change after the first 5000 miles was not having the mess and hassle of changing it. If I were going to remove the filter I may as well put a new one on for $10, I'm not so cheap that I would spend the time to remove, drain and replace it just to save a few bucks. Plus I don't like the risk of the gasket being compromised.
Regarding filters for the Mazda Skyactiv engines; I had planned on using a Fram Ultra on my new CX 5 with the turbo engine and also leaving it on for 2 x 5,000 OCI's. But as VQ35DE and PimTac have mentioned there is a question regarding the bypass pressure specifications being correct on other than OEM Mazda filters. I have a few of the Mazda PY8W-14-302 filters on hand and maybe by the time I have consumed them the question will be answered regarding whether the Fram Ultra and Mobil 1 filters are correct for that engine and not just of the same thread size and cannister size. I sure would like to try the slightly oversize Fram XG7317 or Mobil 1 M110 for a little extra oil capacity.
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The size of the filter figures into this for me. If I had a 1 quart spin on I would certainly drain it. I use tooth pick to prop open the drain back valve and let it drain. Some of the modern tiny filters I would leave alone. The big can short 1/2 quart filters I usually drain. If the filter is small and you you can not prefill, I leave them alone. Same for the ones that are a challenge.
Rod
Rod
Where are some UOAs from engines that reuse the oil filter without draining it vs ones that have drained them ? So many think that UOAs are the "gospel" so why not use this as proof.
FWIW, Honda says to replace the filter every other oil change and makes no mention of draining "old" oil out of the filter when it is reused. I'm not aware of any filter makers who suggest this but on the other hand, they're in business to sell (more) filters.
FWIW, Honda says to replace the filter every other oil change and makes no mention of draining "old" oil out of the filter when it is reused. I'm not aware of any filter makers who suggest this but on the other hand, they're in business to sell (more) filters.
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Where are some UOAs from engines that reuse the oil filter without draining it vs ones that have drained them ? So many think that UOAs are the "gospel" so why not use this as proof.
FWIW, Honda says to replace the filter every other oil change and makes no mention of draining "old" oil out of the filter when it is reused. I'm not aware of any filter makers who suggest this but on the other hand, they're in business to sell (more) filters.
I have a service manual for my '49 Ford F1, and even then Ford recommended two OC per one filter change. This isn't a new idea.
Where are some UOAs from engines that reuse the oil filter without draining it vs ones that have drained them ? So many think that UOAs are the "gospel" so why not use this as proof.
FWIW, Honda says to replace the filter every other oil change and makes no mention of draining "old" oil out of the filter when it is reused. I'm not aware of any filter makers who suggest this but on the other hand, they're in business to sell (more) filters.
I have a service manual for my '49 Ford F1, and even then Ford recommended two OC per one filter change. This isn't a new idea.
Some of the more intelligent members in the field of tribology, and some of the white papers that have been posted over the years, actually showed a slight reduction in the rate of wear after an oil change, by leaving a portion of the old oil in the mix vs. as close to 100% new oil. Has to do something with not having to rebuild the tribofilm or something like that. I don't even bother draining the sump- I have a vacuum pump and marked the tube so I know where the "bottom" is. I suck it out and verify I've gotten at least 4.25 quarts of the 4.8 out of it, and then I add new oil. Every other or every 3rd oil change, I stick a new filter on... depends on the weather and on my mood that day.
My new Transit Connect is going to throw a wrench into those plans, as everything is under the dash shelf, no trans dipstick, and a belly pan underneath. Will definitely be using XG3614s so I only have to take the belly pan off once a year at the 20-ish K mark.
My new Transit Connect is going to throw a wrench into those plans, as everything is under the dash shelf, no trans dipstick, and a belly pan underneath. Will definitely be using XG3614s so I only have to take the belly pan off once a year at the 20-ish K mark.
Originally Posted by CR94
Draining a spin-on filter with a functional anti-drain-back valve is tricky.
A nylon/plastic zip-tie work great to hold the flap open without damaging it.
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Taking off the filter and draining it - then reinstalling it, is fine. I've done it for almost 20 years now, with no leaks.
Same.
I ran a Motorcraft FL-1A for 30,000 miles (back in the middle 1990's) with regular oil changes. It looked fine when I cut open.
I have a Fram Tough Guard with 50,000 miles on it (4X oil changes) that I spun off a month or so ago.... I need to find the time to cut it open and post photos.
Draining a spin-on filter with a functional anti-drain-back valve is tricky.
A nylon/plastic zip-tie work great to hold the flap open without damaging it.
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Taking off the filter and draining it - then reinstalling it, is fine. I've done it for almost 20 years now, with no leaks.
Same.
I ran a Motorcraft FL-1A for 30,000 miles (back in the middle 1990's) with regular oil changes. It looked fine when I cut open.
I have a Fram Tough Guard with 50,000 miles on it (4X oil changes) that I spun off a month or so ago.... I need to find the time to cut it open and post photos.
I'd recommend a 3-way call between yourself, Fram and the vehicle maker to see what they're willing to admit. Could be a conflict with the Pure Food and Drug Act of 1974. Do you own a HAZMAT Suit and a pistol?
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2020/01/full-42963-40205-fram_trash_small.png "[Linked Image]")
Thanks for the advice everyone! I've learned a lot from this thread. I guess I'll keep the filter on as the next oil change will also be easier for me haha. And I am using synthetic from Walmart - Castrol Edge 5w40 on my VW.
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