Rethinking My Oil Change Intervals

Interesting about direct injection and the oil dilution issue. We want to encourage people to burn less fossil fuels, drive their ICE less, but we are sold cars where we are told that normal use should be getting them to operating temp for at least 15 minutes per drive etc, that's a lot of emissions and extra oil changes the world doesnt need, and not an issue we have with an EV

Would a solution be(expensive) to provide both styles of injection to a modern car? manifold injection and direct injection where it would use the manifold injectors at low temps?
And/Or would the solution be for the emissions regs to weight what happens at lower temps more so that manufacturers are forced to redesign how the direct injection system operates at those temps(im assuming the emissions nasties have to be greater if we have liquid fuel getting past the rings).

My advice for the large number of us that dont need to drive large mileages, for winter at least: run your engine oil level right on the low mark of the dipstick. The system will have ~ 1 litre less of oil in it and actually get to a higher temp on shorter trips, allowing more of the moisture to evaporate. Now some may say the lower volume of oil would absorb the same amount of moisture and hence become more % diluted, but I would say, not if its hotter.
I have seen the results on my own system where I run it on 4 L rather than 5 L and the oil gets hotter more quickly(cant remember the rate). Have had an oil test to measure the dilution when I was running 4L and it was within the acceptable limit for everything, including dilution after 18 months and only 3000 miles, but havent compared with how it would have done with 5L.

Of course take that advice(running on the low mark) responsibly, if your engine uses oil between changes you'll need to top it up more often and when summer comes and you are doing extreme work, then want the highest volume of oil in there.
 
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We will be left with nothing but EV's to choose from before they find a solution. They don't care. They care about selling cars.
I take it you dont think that will be a good thing?

Is your preference for gasoline powered ICE's?, ICE's can run on other fuels which wont cause fuel dilation: propane or propane/butane mix, hydrogen, but would still suffer from water condensation/dilution.
 
I take it you dont think that will be a good thing?

Is your preference for gasoline powered ICE's?, ICE's can run on other fuels which wont cause fuel dilation: propane or propane/butane mix, hydrogen, but would still suffer from water condensation/dilution.
Well it's been ICE forever, but with as terrible of service life as the newest ICE cars are providing, EV's aren't really any worse. I think that you can likely get many more tens of thousands of miles out of Tesla vs most ICE cars built in the last 8 years or so before it needs a battery.
 
I own a 2018 Lexus RCF. It's a RWD, Low, wide profile staggered tires, sports sedan. I picked it up a little over 3 years ago with 12K miles on it. Because I'm in cold, snowy Minnesota, this car is off the road in storage or 7 months a year. I only use it from mid April through September based on weather. In the 3 years I've had it I've put on 10k miles or around 3500 miles each year. I change my oil once a year, at seasons end, putting fresh oil and filter on. Now this is a 5.0 Liter V8 and it takes almost 11 quarts of oil (Toyota builds **** to last) and I've been using Ravenol 5w-30 DXG oil which runs around 17.00 a quart so I've just changed it once a year. I thought about doing it twice but I believe it would be wasteful. To be honest, the oil coming out looks almost identical to the new oil going in. I thought about maybe changing just the filter mid-season but I haven't done that yet. Probably not going to.
I'd drain that oil into a clean container and use it in my daily driver/ heating oil tank
 
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