Should I prep them in any way before installation? They are Carquest rotors out of the box.
Replacing Rotors
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YES!
They will have a protective coating on them.
Brake cleaner and rags will get it off of the surface.
Clean the hub where the rotor sits - no rust , dirt, or corrosion.
This will let the rotor run true.
Applying a LITTLE grease on the mating surfaces of the rotor/hub and rotor/wheel is good.
If you are feeling ambitious, you could paint the internal vents [from each end] so they won't rust and warp the rotor. I use Rustoleum. Imperfect, but better than nothing.
They will have a protective coating on them.
Brake cleaner and rags will get it off of the surface.
Clean the hub where the rotor sits - no rust , dirt, or corrosion.
This will let the rotor run true.
Applying a LITTLE grease on the mating surfaces of the rotor/hub and rotor/wheel is good.
If you are feeling ambitious, you could paint the internal vents [from each end] so they won't rust and warp the rotor. I use Rustoleum. Imperfect, but better than nothing.
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i always washed new rotors off in warm soapy water, then hit with brake cleaner. i would wear new latex/nitrile gloves to not get fingerprints on them.
that being said i have seen rotors that are to be installed directly out of the box with the coating still on there.
that being said i have seen rotors that are to be installed directly out of the box with the coating still on there.
What about turning them, at least just a little shave off the top?
Isn't the run out on many new rotors out of spec?
Isn't the run out on many new rotors out of spec?
Originally Posted By: LS2JSTS
What about turning them, at least just a little shave off the top?
Isn't the run out on many new rotors out of spec?
Ultimately, it all depends on the quality of your rotor. Cheep Chinese rotors with larger tolerances, then yeah, a bit of turning should do fine.
But then again: why risk running something that crarppy? chances are, cheep rotors that already warped straight off of the factory floor isn't gonna stay true (experiences told me so). IMHO buy something reasonably good quality and you'll be home-free.
Q.
What about turning them, at least just a little shave off the top?
Isn't the run out on many new rotors out of spec?
Ultimately, it all depends on the quality of your rotor. Cheep Chinese rotors with larger tolerances, then yeah, a bit of turning should do fine.
But then again: why risk running something that crarppy? chances are, cheep rotors that already warped straight off of the factory floor isn't gonna stay true (experiences told me so). IMHO buy something reasonably good quality and you'll be home-free.
Q.
well i guess i just learned something here. the 1 time i had to buy new rotors i did absolutely nothing to prep them. nothing went wrong, but now i know for next time
can i assume same thing with drums?
can i assume same thing with drums?
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JHZR2
Staff member
If you got proper, quality rotors, just clean and use. if they have a big "hat" due to a parking brake mechanism, etc., I like to paint it with hi-temp paint, to help prevent rust long-term. Some come painted...
Kestas
Staff member
Are they coated? What do the instructions say about the coating? The instructions can go either way (leave coating on or remove coating). Otherwise follow what mechtech suggested.
Make sure you bed the rotors and pads early on. This basically involves stopping from higher speeds without coming to a complete stop, and repeating this multiple times.
I too like to paint the exposed non-working metal surfaces.
Make sure you bed the rotors and pads early on. This basically involves stopping from higher speeds without coming to a complete stop, and repeating this multiple times.
I too like to paint the exposed non-working metal surfaces.
Originally Posted By: Jakegday
well i guess i just learned something here. the 1 time i had to buy new rotors i did absolutely nothing to prep them. nothing went wrong, but now i know for next time
can i assume same thing with drums?
Same with drums. As you and millions of other people have done, rotors and drums quite often get put on without having the rust protection taken off. Is it life threatening? Probably not, but the idea is to keep all petroleum products off the brake shoe or pad.
well i guess i just learned something here. the 1 time i had to buy new rotors i did absolutely nothing to prep them. nothing went wrong, but now i know for next time
can i assume same thing with drums?
Same with drums. As you and millions of other people have done, rotors and drums quite often get put on without having the rust protection taken off. Is it life threatening? Probably not, but the idea is to keep all petroleum products off the brake shoe or pad.
Chrysler has a way of reminding people to clean their rotors before installation.
They put on a thick layer of this white stuff that must be removed first. That white stuff is impossible to ignore.
I saw this when I had no other choice but OE when working on a late model T&C van.
They put on a thick layer of this white stuff that must be removed first. That white stuff is impossible to ignore.
I saw this when I had no other choice but OE when working on a late model T&C van.
Trust me, people ignore it!
Originally Posted By: defektes
I like to lightly sand them to a nice non shiny finish
You should never do that.
Smoother is better when it comes to rotor finishes. The factory finish is smoother than anything that you or a lathe will be able to duplicate.
I like to lightly sand them to a nice non shiny finish
You should never do that.
Smoother is better when it comes to rotor finishes. The factory finish is smoother than anything that you or a lathe will be able to duplicate.
My Duralast rotors came with what looked like cross hatch marks. Reminded me of when my mechanic ruffed up the rotors a little when replacing brake pads without turning the rotors.
My Duralast rotors were shrink rapped in plastic and seemed clean. But, when burnishing the new pads it sure did smell a lot. When I replaced those pads, no smell like before. I guess they had some sort of coating, but it sure did seem clean?
My Duralast rotors were shrink rapped in plastic and seemed clean. But, when burnishing the new pads it sure did smell a lot. When I replaced those pads, no smell like before. I guess they had some sort of coating, but it sure did seem clean?
Did you wipe them down with brake cleaner first? Could be the anti-rust film that you were smelling.
yes, they should be clean and oil-free when installed. Unless you prefer to oil your brakes...
Kestas
Staff member
Scrape off or wipe off what you can, then clean with mineral spirits. And if you're really anal, follow up with alcohol or lacquer thinner.
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