Replacing German Castrol 0w30 in small engines. Need recommendations

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Mar 16, 2003
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Colorado
Hey guys! So I have been using German Castrol 0w30 in all of my lawn mowers, Honda Pressure washer engine, Briggs and Stratton edger engines and snow blower engine. It has always served me well and my engines have always ran very well. My GC stash is all gone and I'd like to replace it with an oil that is much easier and cheaper to get at Wal-Mart. Would Mobil 1 0w30 be a good OPE engine oil to replace the GC with? What oil would you guys recommend that would serve me as well as the GC did ? Many thanks! Chris
 
I use to use GC 0w30 in our 2004 Volvo XC70 2.5 turbo with good UOA results. I switched to Mobil 1 0W40 about 90,000 miles ago and got even better UOA results. Didn't even think to use Mobil 1 0W40 in the small OPE engines! GC was just getting to expensive ($60+ per oil change vs $22 for M1) and hard to get(Auto Zone was sold out a lot!). The M1 0w40 seems to be working as good or better in the car at least. Any other oil I should consider for the small engines? Thanks guys!
 
0-30 M1 in all my cold weather engines. 5-30w ST in the warm weather engines. But I'm not in high southern summer temps. either. I personally would not use a 0 bottom number in air cooled motors in high summer temps..
Full synth. oils and regular changes are the key to long life. Several 25 yr old BS and Tecumseh motors still going strong on that philosophy.
 
Wow, GC in OPE? That sounds like super overkill! Any even halfway decent HDEO would be great, any 15W40, or even 10W30 would work fine (I “splurge” on 10W30 T5). I can’t imagine it ever being cold enough for a 0 weight, maybe a snowblower or generator in the Yukon?
 
Wow, GC in OPE? That sounds like super overkill! Any even halfway decent HDEO would be great, any 15W40, or even 10W30 would work fine (I “splurge” on 10W30 T5). I can’t imagine it ever being cold enough for a 0 weight, maybe a snowblower or generator in the Yukon?
My snowblower calls for 5w30 synthetic and our new generator which guarantees easy starts down to minus 13C calls for 5w30 but recommends synthetic 5w30 especially below a certain temperature.
The generator still has the supplied 5w30 in it and isn't even broken in yet.
The snowblower I put m1 0w40 in (previous oil unknown) and now I don't have to grab the extension cord to use the electric starter, 1 pull of the cord starts it right up. We occasionally get minus 30C but I've yet to need to start the snowblower anywhere near that as usually it doesn't snow at those temperatures.
 
I will only use a 0W-XX or 5W-XX in a snow blower. Lawn mowing equipment of mine will get SAE30, 10W-30 or 10W-40.
 
I use Redline 5W-20 in my OPE. Lots of zinc and phosphorous for the splash lubrication. One oil change a year on them won't break the bank. Changing the oil in my lawn mower costs less than a McDonald's Happy Meal.

Scott
 
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At 0F you could not spin over my 5600w Craftsman/BS motor generator with 5-30w in it fast enough to start it.
Recoil pulls would lift it off the ground. Switched to 0-30w and able to start it at -20F.
 
What does the engine manual state? Follow manufacturers instructions for best longevity of the unit.
 
What does the engine manual state? Follow manufacturers instructions for best longevity of the unit.
Conventional 30W. I sometime use my OPE in very cold temps in Colorado so a synthetic 0wxx is handy. Plus the syn does better in the high summer heat also. Been running full syn in my OPE small engine for years and they all seem to last forever.
 
Mobil 1 0W40 or Castrol 0W40 is the closest thing you're gonna get to 0W30 GC.
Yes. Most big brands have an A3/B4 VW502/ Porsche A40 that is easy to obtain. Viscosity is insignificant. IMO.

Castrol has a 5w30 A3/B4 that may be easier to find than a xw40. What is available varies by region.

I use M1 0w40 because I already buy it for her Volvo and have it on hand.
 
Plus the syn does better in the high summer heat also.
You have any real factual evidence to support this claim? What does better mean? You got any lab results that show a SAE30 sheared down in the summer, in Colorado :)? What does it top out at 76F? Now winter temps Briggs says 5w-30 but watch for excessive consumption.

On the synthetic side...... If you are not using Redline or similar, it's not a true synthetic. As in a group 5 wonder oil.
 
You have any real factual evidence to support this claim? What does better mean? You got any lab results that show a SAE30 sheared down in the summer, in Colorado :)? What does it top out at 76F? Now winter temps Briggs says 5w-30 but watch for excessive consumption.

On the synthetic side...... If you are not using Redline or similar, it's not a true synthetic. As in a group 5 wonder oil.
Based on many studies that show syn to be more stable in heat then dino. Read a lot about it on this forum. Not ever case but many. Tons of posted UOA's showing this also....
 
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