Tonight, one of my garage door spring came apart. The garage door is a double wide and is a manual, not an automatic. With only one spring on one side and no spring on the other and the door is down, need advice on how to get the door open....or at least half way so I have a chance of getting the new spring on.
Replacing garage door springs
- Thread starter Eosyn
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A wooden double door is very heavy.
It's not that easy to lift a single door with a broken spring.
Get some strong back help, get it up and then prop it up with sturdy ladder or a piece of wood.
2X4 would work but 4X4 would be better.
If these are the kind of springs that run along the length of the tracks, replacement is pretty easy.
It might be best to replace both springs, since that will keep tension even on each side.
If one spring is notably stronger than the other, the rollers might bind in the tracks and the stronger of the springs will take a disproportionate part of the load and might fail early.
Also, if one has broken, the other won't be far behind.
Ask me how I know all of this about garage door lift springs
It's not that easy to lift a single door with a broken spring.
Get some strong back help, get it up and then prop it up with sturdy ladder or a piece of wood.
2X4 would work but 4X4 would be better.
If these are the kind of springs that run along the length of the tracks, replacement is pretty easy.
It might be best to replace both springs, since that will keep tension even on each side.
If one spring is notably stronger than the other, the rollers might bind in the tracks and the stronger of the springs will take a disproportionate part of the load and might fail early.
Also, if one has broken, the other won't be far behind.
Ask me how I know all of this about garage door lift springs
you need a pack of cold ones and 2 neighbors/friends.
also something to hold the door (2 stacks of plastic buckets..) in at least 2 places (mid point to sustain the weight..)
DO NOT TRY THIS ALONE! a doublewide is heavy!
if you replace the spring, make sure you block the door first with locking pliers/c-clamps.
also something to hold the door (2 stacks of plastic buckets..) in at least 2 places (mid point to sustain the weight..)
DO NOT TRY THIS ALONE! a doublewide is heavy!
if you replace the spring, make sure you block the door first with locking pliers/c-clamps.
go a bit on youtube about replacing your type of springs....
wear protection (eye, hands and back support)
if possible, do not tackle this alone.
wear protection (eye, hands and back support)
if possible, do not tackle this alone.
I think that they recommend that you replace them in sets so that you don't have one that is a little weaker.
Be VERY careful, I've seen these springs bury a short two x four in the wall.
Yeah, there is a certain technique to replacing a garage door spring. It is dangerous. I convinced the guy selling me one to let me do it. You definitely need to get proper instructions and tools, or just have the professional do it.
JHZR2
Staff member
Its really easy if it is the long, flexy coil springs. Some doors have torsion springs, and those strike me as dangerous.
An old wood door (we have two) really isnt hard to open springless unless youre a weakling. Nothing to it. And as a static mass (dont let it come crashing down when springs are off!), very easy to keep in place.
Just open it, and have a helper keep the lose cable out of the way. Just a ratchet and a box wrench to remove the pulley (1/2 and 9/16 IIRC) and then swap the spring. Id swap both springs as the ONLY way to do it. Make sure you have a protecting wire in there too if one isnt already. Its a $1 part.
I got my springs from Chicago, and they are US made. Did two wood doors in the time dinner was cooking, like 30 minutes. Nothing to it.
An old wood door (we have two) really isnt hard to open springless unless youre a weakling. Nothing to it. And as a static mass (dont let it come crashing down when springs are off!), very easy to keep in place.
Just open it, and have a helper keep the lose cable out of the way. Just a ratchet and a box wrench to remove the pulley (1/2 and 9/16 IIRC) and then swap the spring. Id swap both springs as the ONLY way to do it. Make sure you have a protecting wire in there too if one isnt already. Its a $1 part.
I got my springs from Chicago, and they are US made. Did two wood doors in the time dinner was cooking, like 30 minutes. Nothing to it.
Be careful with ANY large spring.
It may be a job worth paying someone else to do. Kinda like replacing a Panel of Circuit Breakers, you want it done right the first time without any mishaps, accidents, or mulligans.
Be careful with the torsion bar style.
I met a guy who broke BOTH his arms trying to replace and tension them himself.
These things can be deadly serious.
It may be a job worth paying someone else to do. Kinda like replacing a Panel of Circuit Breakers, you want it done right the first time without any mishaps, accidents, or mulligans.
Be careful with the torsion bar style.
I met a guy who broke BOTH his arms trying to replace and tension them himself.
These things can be deadly serious.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Ugh.. I went through this some months ago. I too have a large ~300+ lb wooden garage door. One of the torsion springs let go when the door was down and no-one was in the garage mercifully.
I couldn't lift the door myself it was so heavy having lost ~150lbs of lift.
I hired a local garage door place to repair it. He replaced both springs, the tube, both pulleys and new cables. Since the rod/tube has to come out, it's silly not to replace both springs.
Previous owner only replaced one the last time. The old one was the one that let go.
It was about a $300 repair.
I couldn't lift the door myself it was so heavy having lost ~150lbs of lift.
I hired a local garage door place to repair it. He replaced both springs, the tube, both pulleys and new cables. Since the rod/tube has to come out, it's silly not to replace both springs.
Previous owner only replaced one the last time. The old one was the one that let go.
It was about a $300 repair.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Yikes.. It was more like a $360 repair. I had to look at the receipt.
I have replaced both the torsion and the extension springs, on wood, heavy steel and lightweight steel doors. The extension springs are most dangerous when they are extended of course, so putting new ones on with the door open isn't desperately dangerous.
The torsion spring danger factor depends on what kind of door as has been mentioned. For a lightweight steel double door the force on the winding bars is very manageable. But it goes up from there. I would only do the job yourself if you are comfortable with mechanical devices and are aware of what you are getting into.
Like has been mentioned too, if the door is over 10-12 years old you should replace the pulleys and inspect the cables for corrosion or damage. Also replace the bottom two rollers at this time since unlike all the other wheels they are attached to the springs.
If you look around on the Internet there are places that sell springs and parts, plus some have very good instructions for spring replacement. Use "real" winding rods on the cones if your springs are the torsion type, not two screwdrivers or other ghetto tools. Plus you will find out that not all springs are equal. By messing around with diameters and lengths (calculators are on some sites) you can dramatically increase the MTBF. Most manufacturers put on the cheapest springs possible and for a few bucks more you can get better ones that last longer.
The torsion spring danger factor depends on what kind of door as has been mentioned. For a lightweight steel double door the force on the winding bars is very manageable. But it goes up from there. I would only do the job yourself if you are comfortable with mechanical devices and are aware of what you are getting into.
Like has been mentioned too, if the door is over 10-12 years old you should replace the pulleys and inspect the cables for corrosion or damage. Also replace the bottom two rollers at this time since unlike all the other wheels they are attached to the springs.
If you look around on the Internet there are places that sell springs and parts, plus some have very good instructions for spring replacement. Use "real" winding rods on the cones if your springs are the torsion type, not two screwdrivers or other ghetto tools. Plus you will find out that not all springs are equal. By messing around with diameters and lengths (calculators are on some sites) you can dramatically increase the MTBF. Most manufacturers put on the cheapest springs possible and for a few bucks more you can get better ones that last longer.
wow, thanks for the replies and warnings. The left spring came apart as the garage door closed and all I heard was a loud pop and then the door couldn't be open again. I'm just glad it didn't hit my car or happened when I was in there. It is a coil spring type that extends, one on each side of the wall pulling up on the garage.
I will look into it this morning with the wife and see what we can do. I do plan on replacing both springs since new ones came with two and the other good one looks like it was jerry-rigged because it doesn't have the loop at the ends. it's just hooked up together by hooking into the coil itself (2nd coil in) on both ends with "S" hooks. Yikes!
I will look into it this morning with the wife and see what we can do. I do plan on replacing both springs since new ones came with two and the other good one looks like it was jerry-rigged because it doesn't have the loop at the ends. it's just hooked up together by hooking into the coil itself (2nd coil in) on both ends with "S" hooks. Yikes!
Originally Posted By: Eosyn
wow, thanks for the replies and warnings. The left spring came apart as the garage door closed and all I heard was a loud pop and then the door couldn't be open again.
My left spring went a couple weeks back as I hit the opener. I called one of the contractors who does shop doors at some of my businesses. I got two new springs installed and the door adjusted and serviced for $251, taxes in. I can't complain much about that.
wow, thanks for the replies and warnings. The left spring came apart as the garage door closed and all I heard was a loud pop and then the door couldn't be open again.
My left spring went a couple weeks back as I hit the opener. I called one of the contractors who does shop doors at some of my businesses. I got two new springs installed and the door adjusted and serviced for $251, taxes in. I can't complain much about that.
I'm happy to report that the job is completed and I didn't even have to go to the ER
Wife helped to open the door and used c-clamps to keep it in place while I went to work replacing them.
The new springs are strong. With just a slight pull on the door and it goes up all the way. shutting it is a lot tougher though, actually have to use muscles
. I am now enjoying a cold one before bed for work tonight.
Thank you everyone for their inputs and warnings, BITOG'ers rocks!
The new springs are strong. With just a slight pull on the door and it goes up all the way. shutting it is a lot tougher though, actually have to use muscles
Thank you everyone for their inputs and warnings, BITOG'ers rocks!
Keep in mind that rust and corrosion pitting often precipitates a crack in the spring.
In some locations, carefully coating the spring with lube to prevent rust will extend the life of the spring significantly.
However, you want to be 100% sure that the lube does not compromise the spring purchase on either end.
In some locations, carefully coating the spring with lube to prevent rust will extend the life of the spring significantly.
However, you want to be 100% sure that the lube does not compromise the spring purchase on either end.
Kestas
Staff member
A few months ao I replced one of the springs on my 30 year old garage door. The old one broke at a coil. I took the spring to our lab and showed it to my colleagues. It had a seam defect on the inside of the coil, right where the fracture originated and where most of the stress is on a coil spring.
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Make sure there is a safety cable that runs down the middle of the spring. If the spring breaks it keep the pieces from flying around.
Very good advice, thank you. There were no safety cables in either springs so I drilled some holes, put in some hooks and now have safety cables in both springs.
Make sure there is a safety cable that runs down the middle of the spring. If the spring breaks it keep the pieces from flying around.
Very good advice, thank you. There were no safety cables in either springs so I drilled some holes, put in some hooks and now have safety cables in both springs.
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