Replacing Front Struts on 2007 Acura TSX

[artbuc]

Need to replace front struts on my niece's 2007 TSX 2.4L with 96k miles. Struts seem ok to me but would not pass PA state inspection because Tech said they were leaking oil. I do not believe they are leaking oil but the Tech gets the last word.

I ordered KYB replacement struts from Rockauto. I have had very good experience with KYB's on my cars (Toyota and Lexus).

In looking at the TSX, strut replacement looks straightforward except the bottom of the strut fits into a cast iron yoke and it looks like it might be a bear to separate the strut from the yoke. Any pictures or tips on how to do this job? I would really appreciate it.

Finally, the Tech said I would absolutely need a 4 wheel alignment after replacing front struts. I never got alignments when I replaced struts on my cars and I never had a problem with tire wear or driveability. Does anyone know if the TSX requires a 4 wheel alignment after replacing front struts? Thanks!

 

[LeakySeals]

A strut is structural. A fresh gas strut changes stance/height, etc. Why your replacing it, the other one was sagging/going soft. Likely aligned it with the old strut. So usually an alignment is performed at replacement. Especially with a quick/ready/complete strut that includes a spring. So you should. Do you have to? you don't have to do anything if you don't want to. You didn't notice anything before but that does not mean you dont need one. Up to you I guess.

Having broken down struts just for the strut and re-used everything I've found its easier and in many cases cheaper to shotgun. I'm done going through all the trouble of replacing a strut only to get a rattle from a spring insulator or a bad bearing, etc. I really like the KYB Strut-Plus.

 

[Dave Hess]

I would no doubt get an alignment.

 

[termigator]

Have you tried doing a search on Youtube? I actually got great information on changing struts and inner/outer tie rods for my Odyssey on Youtube. Autozone also has good illustrations and instructions on their website. You just have to become a "member" (It's free) and you can get access to their info. I was able to take the belts off and change out the power steering pump based on their instructions/illustrations.

Technically, I don't think you need to get an alignment if you're just changing out the struts. I've taken the struts out multiple times and the alignment was still spot on. On the other hand, when I changed out the tie rods, you could definitely tell a difference.

 

[artbuc]

Originally Posted By: termigator
Have you tried doing a search on Youtube? I actually got great information on changing struts and inner/outer tie rods for my Odyssey on Youtube. Autozone also has good illustrations and instructions on their website. You just have to become a "member" (It's free) and you can get access to their info. I was able to take the belts off and change out the power steering pump based on their instructions/illustrations.

Technically, I don't think you need to get an alignment if you're just changing out the struts. I've taken the struts out multiple times and the alignment was still spot on. On the other hand, when I changed out the tie rods, you could definitely tell a difference.


Yep, I have found some great DIY Youtube videos, but not on this job. Will keep looking and will also check-out AutoZone. Thanks.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: artbuc
Need to replace front struts on my niece's 2007 TSX 2.4L with 96k miles. Struts seem ok to me but would not pass PA state inspection because Tech said they were leaking oil. I do not believe they are leaking oil but the Tech gets the last word.

You'd better define "leaking". Is the oil drippy and shiny wet? Or is it a dull, dark film coating the upper surfaces of the damper body?

Honda published a Honda Service News article in February 2007 which stated that a dull film at the top is normal. The article even has a couple of images to help in identifying an actual leak as opposed to the normal film.

You do not have "struts", you have what Honda calls "dampers". The "yoke" you mention is called a "damper fork". The damper assembly is easily released from the fork by loosening the pinch bolt on the fork, after which the fork just slips off the damper. Changing the dampers on this car is very easy, and does not require an alignment afterwards. Not sure on this late model, but your springs are probably too tightly wound to be able to use a Macpherson-strut spring compressor. New dampers from Honda will come without the springs; you are expected to transfer the old springs to the new damper. Not sure how your Rock Auto ones come.

I suspect that you do not actually have a "leak". PM me and I can send you a copy of the HSN issue for February 2007. It may help in persuading the tech to allow your dampers to pass inspection.

 

[chrome]

artbuc,

When I did the struts for my previous Accord, the front clamp was fairly easy to separate from the damper body. You loosen the bolt and nut from the clamp, and simply tap off with a mallet. If you have rust binding, you might want to invest in a strut spreader tool and lots of PB Blaster.

 

[artbuc]

Originally Posted By: chrome
artbuc,

When I did the struts for my previous Accord, the front yoke was fairly easy to separate from the strut body. You loosen the bolt and nut from the clamp, and simply tap off with a mallet. If you have rust binding, you might want to invest in a strut spreader tool and lots of PB Blaster.


Thanks chrome. Did you remove the bolt attaching the yoke (fork) to the lower control arm first? This was suggested on a TSX forum. This would allow the yoke to drop down and rest on the axle which should provide ample clearance.

 

[JHZR2]

I would have the tech show you EXACTLY where the leaking oil is first, and then go find another opinion. PA with its paid inspections is notorious for "highway robbery". If the second one says something to the contrary, Id make a HUGE stink.

All that said, Id also be prepared to do them, because while at only 96k, Id expect better life on a holy grail Honda product, personal experience says otherwise...

Can you get bilsteins?

 

[KrisZ]

Here is what I would do, and I bet I will get flamed for it. I would check myself or have an independent mechanic check exactly what's going on with the struts.
If he comes back and says everything is ok and no leaks are found I would simply clean up the old struts on both sides followed with a nice wipe with wd40 to give them that nice shine. Works probably 90% of the time.

We have these safety inspections here as well and in a lot of cases shops simply want to extract money for unneeded work and you cannot reason with them. If you can't reason with them you have to fool them, otherwise you will be changing parts that are fine otherwise.
Also, you can go to a different inspection shop to see what they say.

 

[chrome]

Originally Posted By: artbuc
Thanks chrome. Did you remove the bolt attaching the yoke (fork) to the lower control arm first? This was suggested on a TSX forum. This would allow the yoke to drop down and rest on the axle which should provide ample clearance.


Yep, that was what I did. Once the yoke drops from the damper body, remove it and set it aside. Undo the top retaining nuts, and the whole strut assembly should come off easily. One thing to remember is the springs on the TSX have fairly small diameter coils, not all spring compressors will fit properly. You might also need an impact wrench to undo the top nut on the strut assembly.

 

[artbuc]

Originally Posted By: chrome
Originally Posted By: artbuc
Thanks chrome. Did you remove the bolt attaching the yoke (fork) to the lower control arm first? This was suggested on a TSX forum. This would allow the yoke to drop down and rest on the axle which should provide ample clearance.


Yep, that was what I did. Once the yoke drops from the damper body, remove it and set it aside. Undo the top retaining nuts, and the whole strut assembly should come off easily. One thing to remember is the springs on the TSX have fairly small diameter coils, not all spring compressors will fit properly. You might also need an impact wrench to undo the top nut on the strut assembly.


Thanks. Yes, I have a nice impact which makes most brake/suspension work a breeze. I have a couple compressors of different design. I usually use both for added safety. Hopefully both will fit here. Tegger sent me some great info and I am going to make another run at the inspection guys. There is no way these struts are bad.

 

[artbuc]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I would have the tech show you EXACTLY where the leaking oil is first, and then go find another opinion. PA with its paid inspections is notorious for "highway robbery". If the second one says something to the contrary, Id make a HUGE stink.

All that said, Id also be prepared to do them, because while at only 96k, Id expect better life on a holy grail Honda product, personal experience says otherwise...

Can you get bilsteins?


My niece can not afford Bilsteins! She just got divorced and is a little strapped for cash these days. That is why I am doing this work for her. At age 64 I thought I had done my last strut replacement but she is our no 1 niece and only heir.

 

[The Critic]

Just be sure to put a full load on the suspension before tightening the pinch bolt. This is important.

At 100k, any car is a candidate for new ride control components, so I would not feel bad about replacing the struts. I would also replace the rears at the same time. I was real happy with the Monroe OESpectrum that I installed on another import application - great ride quality, liberal lifetime replacement warranty, and super-low price IMO.

This is not identical but very close:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ce5c6eUPW4s

 

[artbuc]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Just be sure to put a full load on the suspension before tightening the pinch bolt. This is important.

At 100k, any car is a candidate for new ride control components, so I would not feel bad about replacing the struts. I would also replace the rears at the same time. I was real happy with the Monroe OESpectrum that I installed on another import application - great ride quality, liberal lifetime replacement warranty, and super-low price IMO.

This is not identical but very close:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ce5c6eUPW4s


Fantastic video...I never thought about searching for Honda, duh. I am surprised he could zip the hold-down nut without restraining the rod to keep it from turning.

 

[Fleetmon]

I agree with JHZR2 that some of the garages in Pa are looking for work....I only get my vehicles inspected at places that don't perform "heavy" repair work and usually get inspections at the done-while-you-wait places like Jiffy Lube (nope....don't get my oil changed there, only inspections). If a place does all kinds of repairs, you can bet they'll ALWAYS find something wrong.

As others have also said, a little seepage is not considered a leak and the internet is full of articles defining what is considered a leak versus what is considered normal seepage.

I also agree with another poster that purchasing the struts with springs is usually less expensive than purchasing struts without and then having to buy the rubber seats, top plate/bearing, and spring ccompressor plus it's a whole lot easier IMO.

 

[artbuc]

Thanks to all for the many great responses, especially to Tegger for the Acura Service News article. I looked up the PA state inspection code and it says exactly what the Acura article says. "Slight" oil dampness is ok. You can only fail a PA inspection if your strut has a "severe" leak and free rocks 3 or more times. When confronted with this info, the service station backed away from their previous adamant position. I told them how unhappy I was and requested a refund for the safety inspection which they gladly gave me. They had already put the emissions sticker on the car so I had no issue there. They were obviously trying to coerce me into replacing perfectly ok struts and they got caught with their pants down.

BTW, the reason they said I had to have a 4 wheel alignment after new struts was because they had to unbolt both upper and lower ball joints in order to replace the struts. As you all know, this is a total load of [censored]. You do not have to touch the ball joints.

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted By: artbuc
Thanks to all for the many great responses, especially to Tegger for the Acura Service News article. I looked up the PA state inspection code and it says exactly what the Acura article says. "Slight" oil dampness is ok. You can only fail a PA inspection if your strut has a "severe" leak and free rocks 3 or more times. When confronted with this info, the service station backed away from their previous adamant position. I told them how unhappy I was and requested a refund for the safety inspection which they gladly gave me. They had already put the emissions sticker on the car so I had no issue there. They were obviously trying to coerce me into replacing perfectly ok struts and they got caught with their pants down.

BTW, the reason they said I had to have a 4 wheel alignment after new struts was because they had to unbolt both upper and lower ball joints in order to replace the struts. As you all know, this is a total load of [censored]. You do not have to touch the ball joints.


You should ensure that all your firends and relatives avoid this place in the future.

 

[surfstar]

Yelp review!!!

 

[Vikas]

I suspect he was not aware that she was your niece. Have you done business with them in the past? It is very sad that when it comes to auto repair business you have to have "Trust but Verify" attitude even if the mechanic appears to be honest to you.