Replacing Brake Pads - First Time

[actionstan]

Hello All,

Tomorrow I am replacing brake pads and rotors on a car for the first time and have a few questions.

The car: Saturn sl1 99 130k miles, installing wearever rotors, and wearever gold semi metallic pads.

The following is my basic plan:

1. Take old brake/rotor off and caliper (hanging with a bungee cord or something)
2. compress caliper piston
3. install new rotor, after cleaning it with brake clean.
4. install need pads and lubricating them at the contact points.
5. installing caliper back on and lubing the slide pins on those.

-My first question is regarding step 2. In the video I have linked below, by Eric the car guy he opens the bleeder valve, his reasoning is "to prevent damage to the master cylinder". This step would seem unnecessary to me, when you compress the caliper wont the fluid just go back into the brake fluid well, I don't see how this could hurt anything?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kf8C4Qxu-A


-My next question ericthecarguy uses anti-seize on the actual pad contact points, and silicon on the caliper pins. I am also aware they make special lube for brake parts.. Currently I have anti-seize and dielectric grease from a past spark plug job.. Will this be sufficient? or do I need to spring for the special brake grease, or are there better alternatives?

-Also.. there would never be a better time to bleed my brakes than now.. Is it worth doing or a waste of time? my user manual doesn't have a specific interval for such a thing, and I don't believe most manufactures do.

-Finally if I missed any major steps or any tips that can be provided that I should have listed/know please let me know, as this is a very important repair to handle properly as far as mine and others safety is concerned.


As always thanks all!

 

[spasm3]

i used to compress. but i think its better to open the bleeder and push the piston back in. I feel the fluid in the caliper has seen the most heat and also could be where moisture is. After mounting the caliper with new pads, i bleed it a bit with a friends help. I would use wheel bearing grease or better yet syl- glide silicone grease.

 

[KD0AXS]

I've never opened bleeder screw to push the piston back in. I justremo ve the master cylinder cap. Opening the bleeder screw is just a good way to get air in the system, and then you'll have to bleed the brakes.

If the system hasn't been opened (other than the MC cap) or run low on fluid, then bleeding shouldn't be necessary because there shouldn't be any air in the system.

 

[Jimmy9190]

You can wash the new rotors in warm soapy water to get all the grease off of them. Brake cleaner alone is not enough. If you don't wash the rotors they may smoke for a while until the grease burns off, which probably is not good for the new pads. Put anti-squeal compound on the backs of the new pads. Personally I like the spray type in a can, CRC brand. You can use anti-sieze but Permatex makes a very good disc brake grease, I use it on my caliper pins and slide surfaces. You can usually find it in small packets on the counter at the parts store. I have heard Syl Glyde is good too but have never used it myself.

 

[djb]

You are right that opening the bleed valve while pushing the piston back isn't required. The only reason to do it is to flush the fluid. If you don't have fresh fluid to top off with don't do it. If you do have enough fresh fluid, you are better off doing a full flush, although even a partial flush has value.

Another almost-superstition is to the bleed order for brakes. You can start at any convenient corner. It doesn't have to be the one furthest from the master cylinder. Sure, if you don't have any other reason, start at the right rear. But it's just not that important.

 

[mattwithcats]

Remember that the brake pads are not all identical, two have the wear tab on one side of the pad, and two on the other side.

On a Saturn front brakes, the wear tab goes up...

Clean the retaining clips (holds the pads in) with 200 grit wet/dry sandpaper or wire brush (looks like toothbrush but with steel wires) gently, get most of the rust off, then clean them with brake cleaner and wipe with clean rag.

A six point metric socket and a cheater will be needed to loosen the bolts.
(a cheater is a 4-6 foot piece of pipe you slip over the end of the wrench for more torque)

Use anti-seize (usually silver goo, light coat on the non threaded part) on the caliper pins, and caliper grease (usually clear) on the back of the pads where the caliper contacts the pad...

Loosen the brake resevoir cap, and wrap a rag around it, if it overflows the fluid is bad news...eats paint, plastic and rubber...

Make sure you slip a jack stand under the car...

 

[mattwithcats]

Brakes will be soft first time or two you step on them...

Little squeeze packets are around a buck at Auto Parts store, you should only need one of each...

Caliper pins are different sizes, remember which goes where...

 

[Smoky14]

I'll just say if you DIDN'T loosen the bleeders where I worked you got fired. Good shop procedure!

 

[partspro]

Plus 1 for loosening the bleeders, you really don't want to push that contaminated fluid back through your ABS system. Also, wash to the new rotors with dish soap and water, not brake cleaner. The new pads will bed in better. Never use wheel bearing grease on any of the brake parts, the little packets have the correct grease and they are cheap. Finally, try the 10, 30, 30 to bed in the new pads. 10 firm stops from 30mph with 30 secs cool down between. you'll be good to go, and stop.

 

[Da Game]

Intresting point about the bleeder screw. Since I live in a corrosive place, I was WARNED to be careful about opening the bleeder screw. The reason was that they may have rusted in over the years and once the screw breaks the caliper will need to be replaced.

 

[SHOZ]

At 130k miles you need to flush out all the old fluid. It is not a sealed system and slowly absorbs water. This leads to internal corrosion. I usually flush and bleed my brakes at least every three years.

If your heat the bleeder screw threaded area with a propane torch and then use the correct six sided box wrench or socket the bleeder comes out pretty easy.

 

[The_Jeff]

If you have Delco VI ABS I would NOT rookie bleed it nor crack the bleeder. Let this sleeping dog lie! Have a shop do the bleeding if you have to; it is real easy to get a soft pedal.

Some saturns have ABS, some don't.

This car is a real easy one to learn brakes on. 14mm for the pins, 18mm for the caliper bracket. The 18 will need a lot of umph to get loose. As said above, keep track of your pins: one is fat and one is not. I've been able to push the caliper piston back in by hand pressure, just take it slow and easy.

Also make sure you don't have rust on your hub flange before you put the new rotor on.

 

[actionstan]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
If you have Delco VI ABS I would NOT rookie bleed it nor crack the bleeder. Let this sleeping dog lie! Have a shop do the bleeding if you have to; it is real easy to get a soft pedal.

Some saturns have ABS, some don't.

This car is a real easy one to learn brakes on. 14mm for the pins, 18mm for the caliper bracket. The 18 will need a lot of umph to get loose. As said above, keep track of your pins: one is fat and one is not. I've been able to push the caliper piston back in by hand pressure, just take it slow and easy.

Also make sure you don't have rust on your hub flange before you put the new rotor on.


My Saturn does indeed have ABS, I have done some reading.. some things say that most of the time it wont cause a issue, unless the abs module is not in the "home position".

I have purchased Valvoline synthetic brake fluid.. and I was hoping to be able to use it, but after doing some reading now I am scared to try this procedure.. If I start draining a little bit of fluid at a time and adding new, will it circulate through the system? (I don't think it will in this type of system.. and even if i do this, I've read not to keep a open container of dot 3/4 fluid sitting around)

AFIK the car is 14 years old and possibly.. so is the brake fluid...
I guess worst case scenario I could attempt it myself and if I screw up or it doesn't go to plan the GM dealer is only a mile down the road.. Decisions.. Decisions..

 

[outdoorsman310]

here is how I do it
1. compress caliper slowly while on vehicle with small prybar or big screwdriver unless it is a rear caliper with a screw type parking brake. if you are doing a 4-wheel brake job, do either front or rear brakes, then pump up the pedal before doing the other set of brakes.
2. remove caliper and rotor
3. wipe off slide pins and relube with brake grease
4. clean rust and debris off contact points, replace hardware if necessary, grease contact points (don't over grease)
5. clean and install rotor and remove rust from hub if it is excessive
6. remove shims from pads unless they are riveted on, put some brake grease on backs of pads and grease contact points (not too much)and install caliper.
7. check work and movement of caliper also, make sure there is not grease on the rotor then torque wheels on
8. test drive
don't forget to pump up the pedal!