I have done this before on an HD GM truck. The rotors rotted off the truck but the pads were at 80%. I removed the pads and cleaned the backers. The concrete in front of the barn has a smooth finish but its just enough to run the pads across and clean them up. I got more than 100k miles out of those pads. Cleaning and lubricating the slide pins and the carrier clips is essential.
Replace rotors and leave pads?
- Thread starter lancerplayer
- Start date
Pads are inexpensive, if you replace a rotor replace the pads. You really can not sand them flat without the use a machine that can surface them parallel to the to the mounting bracket or back plate of the pad so when assembled in the caliper and when actuated make full even contact with the rotor. The rotor on the vehicle is not a machining device to correct the pads uneven wear problems either. While you are hoping that the "new" rotor to correct for the hand sanded pads you will not have full contact until that pads wear enough to make the proper full contact. And you may also change the brake pad/rotor efficiency because of the uneven heat that will be applied to it during the MacGyver pad surfacing methods on the used pads.
I think you may find that there is no brake part manufacture of rotors and pads that would not agree with my response.
I think you may find that there is no brake part manufacture of rotors and pads that would not agree with my response.
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Your favorite vehicle mfg says otherwise:
“
BRAKE JUDDER
Brake judder (or warping) is caused by uneven thickness (run-out) of the brake rotor. During braking, the clearance between the pads and rotor becomes wider and narrower. This causes force onto the pads and may create a vibration. Vibration is transferred through the brake hydraulic system and/or suspension and can be felt by the customer through the brake pedal, vehicle floor and/or steering wheel. Even micron-size unevenness may cause brake judder. Brake judder is more noticeable when slowing from a higher speed.
In most cases when brake judder is diagnosed, the rotors can be machined using an on-car lathe and the pads can be refinished using sandpaper to restore braking performance.
NOTE: DO NOT use an off-car lathe for warranty repair. It is not necessary to replace the rotors and pads unless:
- Excessive unevenness (run-out) of the rotors is present that cannot be remedied by resurfacing without exceeding the minimum thickness of the rotor.
- Excessive heat damage to the rotor (may include heat cracking).
- Excessive heat damage to the pads.
When you encounter a customer complaint for brake judder, discuss the customer’s driving and vehicle storage habits. Identify which wheel is causing the judder and visually inspect the rotors and pads to identify the cause.
NOTE: Refer to MGSS online service information for lateral run-out, minimum rotor, and minimum pad thickness specifications for the subject vehicle.
Rust:
- If rust on the rotors and/or brake pads is identified as the cause of the unevenness, measure the lateral run-out and machine the rotors using an on-car lathe; refinish the pads with sandpaper (grit #80).
- If machining the rotors does not correct the brake judder, replace the rotors.”
Refer to Mazda TSB #04-001/20, 1/8/2020.
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^^^^^See above. Brake parts manufacturers are not automobile manufacturers.
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$50-$100 per set is nothing compared to the years of normal use and peace of mind when new rotors and new pads wear together. Besides, you don't want the chinese knock-off pads anyway. Get the good stuff because braking is more important than accelerating.
What I said was to replace the pads.... You replace a pad and rotor as a unit not separate. did you not clearly read that? I also said you can not mill them evenly by sanding them in fact I think I said indirectly you would create more problems.
Please you personally try and hand sand a pad and then measure it. Post a before and after using a micrometer and posting pictures.
What really is your problem? LOL Post it up as evidence that you a have a superior eye and hand to do this feat of sanding a pad?
As far as I can tell you are a good Technician maybe only a Mechanic but that's about it. For the most part your response are pretty good but that is also about it.
I engineer design and manufacture complete aftermarket performance brake components and systems so I guess my information is less accurate? LOL
I don't see that manufacture posting on this forum . Please contact him and invite him to this thread I would love to talk shop!
LOL
Here is one of my proto type that was later sold through many vendors everywhere for a few years. These are hand machined rotors modified calipers and all assembled by me personally for the proto-type designs.
BBK front and rear with a special valve that correct for brake bias. Please don't tell me I don't know what I am talking about when it come to brakes. All you did was run to the internet to find an answer that conflics with what I posted about the subject. WOW HERO! LOL
You must think I am another DIY .... you would be badly mistaken . ROLMAO!
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It’s more of a scuffing to clean up the surface of the pad it’s not a precision machining operation.
this is the real world. Sure new pads would be great everytime but I have pads I put on promaster vans that can be over 400 a set so pads can be expensive. Even adding another 150 bucks plus some labor to put them on can add to the cost of a job. Not everyone has an unlimited budget
we have to explain the pluses and minuses of reusing and let the customer speak and choose with their wallets
this is the real world. Sure new pads would be great everytime but I have pads I put on promaster vans that can be over 400 a set so pads can be expensive. Even adding another 150 bucks plus some labor to put them on can add to the cost of a job. Not everyone has an unlimited budget
we have to explain the pluses and minuses of reusing and let the customer speak and choose with their wallets
Nitro3m, you seem to be uncomfortable and personally threatened by the discussion here. Resorting to questioning The Critics skills and following up posting your credentials is a classic debate flaw used when one has run out of ammunition and weakens your credibility. Why? You seem to not understand the concept that there is oftentimes a discourse between by-the-book principles and the real world, which MattPersman brings up. Relax. There's no need to think we are challenging your engineering background and mechanic expertise.
Similar to discussions about antiseize on spark plugs, The Critic simply stated that one car mfg. does not follow what you claim brake mfg. recommend. Nothing new here. The by-the-book world vs. the real world. He didn't state what he practices. That was your assumption.
My question regarding the Mazda quote: why is on car brake lathes only recommended? Are they assuming that some of the run out is possibly due to the hub?
Similar to discussions about antiseize on spark plugs, The Critic simply stated that one car mfg. does not follow what you claim brake mfg. recommend. Nothing new here. The by-the-book world vs. the real world. He didn't state what he practices. That was your assumption.
My question regarding the Mazda quote: why is on car brake lathes only recommended? Are they assuming that some of the run out is possibly due to the hub?
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The fact that you asked the question means you will be thinking about it if you just went and did it. I think there is enough argument on both sides (my vote is new pads unless financially it would kill you) new pads would be my path in your shoes. And buy quality parts!!
Do the job 100% right and enjoy years of new parts wearing together in harmony.
Do the job 100% right and enjoy years of new parts wearing together in harmony.
"What really is your problem?" is a chump change response.What I said was to replace the pads.... You replace a pad and rotor as a unit not separate. did you not clearly read that? I also said you can not mill them evenly by sanding them in fact I think I said indirectly you would create more problems.
Please you personally try and hand sand a pad and then measure it. Post a before and after using a micrometer and posting pictures.
What really is your problem? LOL Post it up as evidence that you a have a superior eye and hand to do this feat of sanding a pad?
As far as I can tell you are a good Technician maybe only a Mechanic but that's about it. For the most part your response are pretty good but that is also about it.
I engineer design and manufacture complete aftermarket performance brake components and systems so I guess my information is less accurate? LOL
I don't see that manufacture posting on this forum . Please contact him and invite him to this thread I would love to talk shop!
LOL
Here is one of my proto type that was later sold through many vendors everywhere for a few years. These are hand machined rotors modified calipers and all assembled by me personally for the proto-type designs.
BBK front and rear with a special valve that correct for brake bias. Please don't tell me I don't know what I am talking about when it come to brakes. All you did was run to the internet to find an answer that conflics with what I posted about the subject. WOW HERO! LOL
You must think I am another DIY .... you would be badly mistaken . ROLMAO!
I know @The Critic personally and can tell you he freely gives advice, loans tools and shares expertise. I have not heard him with a critical word about anyone. Others could take a lesson.
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4WD
$50 site donor 2025
Not sure anyone means hold in one hand … sand with other … you could lay a 10” sander disk on a very flat surface and sand with light pressure … Just take off most of the risers … not too much …
I used to build and micrometer large natural gas compressor rods … how do you think we got that polished surface?
I used to build and micrometer large natural gas compressor rods … how do you think we got that polished surface?
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
Just saying use the 10” sander disk (sheet) on a very flat surface … machine is too aggressive
I never said in any my responses to use a a machine , I said pads are cheap, replace them dont sand (hand) them. Why would anyone even consider anything less then a new set of pads when replacing or after machine a disc/rotor?
You could probably do a better the most band-aid repair sanding because YOU personally have experience using a disc sander and performing work that requires a bit of knowing what something feels like and even an eye for 90 degree angles... most DON"T! I still would tell you that it is better to replace the pads!
I keep trying to let this thread go and remove it from watched list but if I keep getting responses directly I am going to respond. LOL
some of you don't like what I say and recommend DON"T READ IT OR DO IT! How simple is that?
I get pads for less than $15-$20 on Amazon pretty often
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
Well … you mentioned a belt sander … (a machine) not sure why …I never said in any my responses to use a a machine , I said pads are cheap, replace them dont sand (hand) them. Why would anyone even consider anything less then a new set of pads when replacing or after machine a disc/rotor?
You could probably do a better the most band-aid repair sanding because YOU personally have experience using a disc sander and performing work that requires a bit of knowing what something feels like and even an eye for 90 degree angles... most DON"T! I still would tell you that it is better to replace the pads!
I keep trying to let this thread go and remove it from watched list but if I keep getting responses directly I am going to respond. LOL
some of you don't like what I say and recommend DON"T READ IT OR DO IT! How simple is that?
Since sanding is what OP vetted and some lined up with … I suggested a $3 sheet of stiff emery on a flat surface to take care of some risers (+take some glaze off) … Said not too much … that’s all …
Would I replace pads ? Maybe, but I’m not the OP/TS …
Hope most here understood that …
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