Repairing plastic fuel tank sender

[zorobabel]

I have been postponing fixing this ever since the last fix stopped working...
On my 97 Maxima I found (about 9-10 years ago) that the plastic fuel sender holder (a glorified lid for the fuel tank) plastic unit cracked and failed to keep gas in when the tank was full. Based on recommendations here I used some putty type of Epoxy product, but that fix didn't last long.
A good number of years ago (prior to the forum being reorganized and all those great threads being deleted) someone with a Volvo 240 series used some sort of glue that melted that plastic a bit (for a great bond) fixing a similar problem on that Volvo.
Does anyone (maybe Volvo guy - I seem to remember you were doing a cross country trip to California with that Volvo) know what product that was or can recommend a similar product?

 

[Donald]

I have been postponing fixing this ever since the last fix stopped working...
On my 97 Maxima I found (about 9-10 years ago) that the plastic fuel sender holder (a glorified lid for the fuel tank) plastic unit cracked and failed to keep gas in when the tank was full. Based on recommendations here I used some putty type of Epoxy product, but that fix didn't last long.
A good number of years ago (prior to the forum being reorganized and all those great threads being deleted) someone with a Volvo 240 series used some sort of glue that melted that plastic a bit (for a great bond) fixing a similar problem on that Volvo.
Does anyone (maybe Volvo guy - I seem to remember you were doing a cross country trip to California with that Volvo) know what product that was or can recommend a similar product?

Email JB Weld. They will provide a quick and proper answer.

Are you thinking of the cement we use to use decades ago to build plastic models? Clear glue in a small bottle with a tiny paint brush.

Super glue?

 

[Faawrenchbndr]

Why not just buy a new part?

 

[Nukeman7]

You need to use a flowable epoxy liquid such as JB Weld instead of the stiff epoxy putty to ensure a good seal. If you don't want to use a 2 part catalyzed epoxy, some mechanics claim that Seal-All adhesive can be used to repair gas tank leaks, but I've had better long term success with the slow cure JB Weld epoxy.

 

[D60]

Once it's cured I can tell you from experience JB Weld is like the honey badger with gasoline -- it doesn't give a S! But I don't know how well it bonds plastic?

@Sam_Julier is drain bamaged and has a thing for old Volvos. Poor soul.....

 

[zorobabel]

Email JB Weld. They will provide a quick and proper answer.

Are you thinking of the cement we use to use decades ago to build plastic models? Clear glue in a small bottle with a tiny paint brush.

Super glue?

Thanks, I could do that, you got me curious if they'll actually say they don't have a product for this purpose.
FYI I'm talking about 1 or 2 hairline cracks...

 

[zorobabel]

Why not just buy a new part?

Mainly because it costs $3xx for the same "quality" part, not an improved one or god forbid a metal one.

 

[zorobabel]

You need to use a flowable epoxy liquid such as JB Weld instead of the stiff epoxy putty to ensure a good seal. If you don't want to use a 2 part catalyzed epoxy, some mechanics claim that Seal-All adhesive can be used to repair gas tank leaks, but I've had better long term success with the slow cure JB Weld epoxy.

View attachment 322051View attachment 322053

The problem with the 2 part epoxy is that it doesn't disolve the plastic and it only relies on sanding marks for "sticktion". I am 80% sure this won't be a long term fix.
I never used SealAll, thanks for suggesting it!

 

[zorobabel]

Once it's cured I can tell you from experience JB Weld is like the honey badger with gasoline -- it doesn't give a S! But I don't know how well it bonds plastic?

@Sam_Julier is drain bamaged and has a thing for old Volvos. Poor soul.....

Thanks for sharing your experience with gas exposure on JBWeld!
I have little thing for those old Volvos too, but I stayed strong and never bought one (what a long list that is ). 4 vehicles and 2 drivers is enough...

 

[Faawrenchbndr]

Mainly because it costs $3xx for the same "quality" part, not an improved one or god forbid a metal one.

Ok….

 

[SC Maintenance]

I assume its this piece? There still available for $300.

Is it cracked just on top? If so it might be fixable - since its not technically in the tank - will only get gasoline fumes from the bottom side?

 

[Arc]

I have been postponing fixing this ever since the last fix stopped working...
On my 97 Maxima I found (about 9-10 years ago) that the plastic fuel sender holder (a glorified lid for the fuel tank) plastic unit cracked and failed to keep gas in when the tank was full. Based on recommendations here I used some putty type of Epoxy product, but that fix didn't last long.
A good number of years ago (prior to the forum being reorganized and all those great threads being deleted) someone with a Volvo 240 series used some sort of glue that melted that plastic a bit (for a great bond) fixing a similar problem on that Volvo.
Does anyone (maybe Volvo guy - I seem to remember you were doing a cross country trip to California with that Volvo) know what product that was or can recommend a similar product?

Pretty sure that glue has been outlawed. Kids were huffing it or eating it or something. It was used as model car glue but the replacement wasn't even close to being as good. Nothing I've found today will hold hard plastic other than heat welding it back together.

 

[CleanSump]

You need to bond to the plastic, and this works,
J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder Body Panel Adhesive and Gap Filler. I use it for body panels, like inside door panels that have glued on standoffs that break when you replace the window lifter or valance panels that are glued to standoffs.

https://www.google.com/search?q=J-B...1C1AFAB_enUS562US596&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

[Arc]

You need to bond to the plastic, and this works,
J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder Body Panel Adhesive and Gap Filler. I use it for body panels, like inside door panels that have glued on standoffs that break when you replace the window lifter or valance panels that are glued to standoffs.

https://www.google.com/search?q=J-B...1C1AFAB_enUS562US596&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Ive used that epoxy and have some right now for general stuff in the garage. It's good as long as there is no strain or force on the plastic.

 

[D60]

There's also Plastex which has been reco'd here and I ordered some. I think it was shipped from the UK. I looked at my package today but it doesn't say anything about resistance to gasoline.

I haven't used mine yet because it was kinda spendy so I'm waiting for THAT repair attempt which warrants using the Plastex....

 

[CleanSump]

It's just a lid with a float and rheostat hanging off of it.

 

[Nukeman7]

The problem with the 2 part epoxy is that it doesn't disolve the plastic and it only relies on sanding marks for "sticktion". I am 80% sure this won't be a long term fix.
I never used SealAll, thanks for suggesting it!

The glue that dissolves the plastic forms a very weak bond that wont hold up to vibration. If you are dead set on melting and fusing the plastic, you will need to use a Hot Air Plastic Welder tool.

 

[zorobabel]

I assume its this piece? There still available for $300.

Is it cracked just on top? If so it might be fixable - since its not technically in the tank - will only get gasoline fumes from the bottom side?

View attachment 322113

Correct, last time I checked it is only cracked up top, hairline crack.

 

[zorobabel]

You need to bond to the plastic, and this works,
J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder Body Panel Adhesive and Gap Filler. I use it for body panels, like inside door panels that have glued on standoffs that break when you replace the window lifter or valance panels that are glued to standoffs.

https://www.google.com/search?q=J-B...1C1AFAB_enUS562US596&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Thanks, I am considering giving this a try.

 

[ammolab]

J B Weld has several PLASTIC specific products. These may give you a stronger bond than the gap filler.