Repair John Boos cutting board

[Cropduster172]

We bought a John Boos Newton Prepmaster cutting board two years ago...my wife liked it so much, we immediately bought another one for our beach house. I kept up with recommend maintenance for a few months, but then let it lapse.
Maintenance is routine(monthly) rubbing it down on both sides with either mineral oil or one of those cutting board cream conditioner products... usually a combination of mineral oil and beeswax. When I did do it. I only did the top side. I also put small rubber feet on it. Over time, it started to warp and two of the glue joints started to split. Disappointing for a $260 cutting board...but there's that recommended maintenance thing they tell you.
I decided to attempt a repair.
I ripped the two glue joints that were splitting with a table saw and sanded the ripped sides fairly smooth as I don't have a jointer.
I glued the cut sides up with Titebond 3 and clamped them with pipe clamps overnight.
I'm using a paste of the maple sawdust and Titebond as a wood filler where needed.
So far, this repair actually worked!! I'm sanding it to start with 40 grit and working to probably 120...then mineral oil and beeswax... probably 3 coats.
We ordered a new one anyway and the one at the beach house is in good shape simply because it doesn't see as much use.
I didn't take before pictures but I'll post some after ones.
I also ordered 1wide"x1/2" high rubber feet which I'll again attach to the box but I'm putting 2 in the center plus the 4 corners to Mimi warping/bowing.

 

[Astro14]

Always finish both sides of real wood - or you get differential moisture absorption/loss and the subsequent warping that you experienced. A wood like Maple (a typical choice for cutting boards) can expand up to 1/4” across the width, if the wood is flat-sawn. Quarter sawn is more stable, but still, at least 1/8”

So, if the top expands by zero, absorbing less through the finish, and the bottom expands by 1/8”, absorbing more in the raw wood, because of a sudden change in moisture, which is common in a kitchen, the whole thing can cup, curve, and break the glue joints.

 

[ecotourist]

I think you should maintain both sides. That would help keep it from warping.

 

[Cropduster172]

Always finish both sides of real wood - or you get differential moisture absorption/loss and the subsequent warping that you experienced. A wood like Maple (a typical choice for cutting boards) can expand up to 1/4” across the width, if the wood is flat-sawn. Quarter sawn is more stable, but still, at least 1/8”

So, if the top expands by zero, absorbing less through the finish, and the bottom expands by 1/8”, absorbing more in the raw wood, because of a sudden change in moisture, which is common in a kitchen, the whole thing can cup, curve, and break the glue joints.

That's exactly what happened. I've got the mineral oil and beeswax ready to go. There are some good ready made products out there too . It's a a heavy thing...18"x18" by 2.25" thick.

 

[4wd]

Boos makes a mystery oil - just when we thought there was but 1

 

[ecotourist]

We have an 18 X 25 X 1.5" maple chopping block. We've had it for over 40 years and it has never cracked. We keep it on the counter where it is in constant use. It bows slightly over time (up at both ends) so we turn it over. It straightens, then bows the other way.

Obviously it has no feet. We put walnut oil on it occasionally (both sides of course).

 

[AZjeff]

Good fix. Sometimes recommended maintenance is for real.

 

[Cropduster172]

Boos makes a mystery oil - just when we thought there was but 1

I've got a little bit of the Boos stuff left. I also have a can of Walrus Wax and mineral oil. Just finished filling any small cracks and joints with Titebond and maple sawdust. I'll start sanding when it hardens.

Good fix. Sometimes recommended maintenance is for real.

Forgot to add...when I glued up the first 2 of three pieces, I shot 3 2" brads from my nailer and had to cut off a half inch because the maple is so hard ...it worked though.