repair bleeders?

[buck91]

How do people feel about these repair bleeders? I'd love to avoid the cost of the a replacement caliper but previous owner of the daughter's vehicle seems to have kindly sheered the bleeder off flush. Yes, I could try a ez out and such but odds are slight to slim as we live in the midwest salt belt.

 

[Hall]

That part won't help you as you need to get the broken bleeder out. Those repair parts would be used, I presume, when someone taps out the bleeder hole to a larger size. Maybe used on an impossible to buy/find caliper

 

[SHOZ]

Actually some heat and a left handed drill bit should pop those out in a couple seconds.

 

[paulo57509]

Drilling and tapping the caliper for the new bleeder screw seat (the bushing thingy) should take care of the broken portion of the bleeder screw.

I would just replace the caliper but the repair might be a fun afternoon project...or not.

 

[Kira]

I'm looking at the same repair. There is a shoulder remaining of shorn off bleeder.
I believe I bought the original sized bleeder; not an oversized.

 

[Chris142]

You are going to have to get the broken bleeder out anyway. If the threads and seat are ok just put a new needed in there.

 

[fdcg27]

An unapproved approach that I used once involved loosening the brake line at the caliper and bleeding through it.
This seemed to work just fine and resulted in solid brake operation.
For most applications, a junkyard caliper rebuilt with new parts by you would be a cheap and easy solution.

 

[Donald]

If it was mine I would use PB Blaster, heat and then a left handed drill bit and an EasyOut.

Worst case you snap the EasyOut and buy a new or rebuilt caliper.

 

[SHOZ]

If it was mine I would use PB Blaster, heat and then a left handed drill bit and an EasyOut.

Worst case you snap the EasyOut and buy a new or rebuilt caliper.

No need for the easy out. Using the left handed bit while drilling in reverse, the bit usually goes half way in and then grabs, backing whatever you are drilling out.

 

[lbhsbz]

Left hand drill or EZ out isn't getting out a rusty broken bleeder. I do these all day...have about 7 of 'em on the bench to do today. The only way I've found that works is to first blast the part to clean as much of these area as possible, then weld onto it. Sometimes you can weld a nut to it, most times I just stack welds until I have 3/8 of an inch or so of material to grab onto with vise grips. I have about a 95% success rate with this method. 0 % success rate with other methods.

 

[nascarnation]

Left hand drill or EZ out isn't getting out a rusty broken bleeder. I do these all day...have about 7 of 'em on the bench to do today. The only way I've found that works is to first blast the part to clean as much of these area as possible, then weld onto it. Sometimes you can weld a nut to it, most times I just stack welds until I have 3/8 of an inch or so of material to grab onto with vise grips. I have about a 95% success rate with this method. 0 % success rate with other methods.

Good point. The heat you put into it from the welding helps break the corrosion bond too.